Landshark

That looks familiar. Thank you. Rich

Does anyone have a picture of where to place the posi and jacking stickers on the decklid? Or, does anyone know which page in the assembly manual? Rich

The VIN will be stamped on a vertical machined surface, above the oil filter, right where the block mates to the transmission. It should be visible from under the car. The number you see is the build number which shows it to be Tonowanda built, (as were ALL big blocks then), on September 11. The CRN code is for an LS5, 360hp 454, used in a Monte Carlo.

That little "hamster" has some big teeth. Chevrolet spec is 125-140 psi. Mine puts out 140 psi. It just takes takes time to get there. There is a schreader valve on the pump, so you fill it with shop air, and then let it do the rest. You can just fill it with shop air and it will work, as long as it holds air.

The reason Chevrolet gave for the difference is the exhaust. The bigger the engine, the better it will respond to exhaust upgrades. The corvette engine, with the better exhaust, made power further up the rpm range. Look at the engine specs in the factory manual. The 360 hp engine is rated at 4400 rpm, and the 390 is rated at 4800 rpm. This explains the 30 hp difference, as much as the exhaust. An interesting note on horsepower ratings. They were basically arbitrary, and were "dialed" in to fit the application. In 66, the first 427 hi perf vettes were rated at 450 hp. GM Corporate had a fit, so they were rerated to 425 hp. Take a look at 65 and 66 specs; The 396/425, and the 427/425 vettes had the same cams, heads and intakes, and the same power band, (6500 redline) but the 396 was rated at 6400 rpm, and the 427 at 5600 rpm. What they did was run the 427 up until it made 425 hp, and stopped there, thus reducing the hp rating. Oh, and does anyone really believe in a 290 hp 302 Z28, or maybe a 430 hp L88? The L88 was deliberately rated below the L72/435 tri-power to discourage Joe Average. They did not want these things out on the street. You could not get a heater, or a radio with an L88, and it cost a lot more than the 435 hp, which is why they are so rare. The seemingly low hp ratings for the Monte and Chevelle had much to do with insurance classification. Insurance companies were getting nervous. Anything that weighed more than 10 lbs per hp was considered low performance. A Chevelle weighing 3800 lbs would pay more if it had a 390 hp engine, as would a Monte. And then there were the NHRA Stock and Super Stock Classes, (i.e. 335 hp 428 Cobra Jets), but enough. Rich

GM does still has all of the information, (invoices, build sheets, etc.),and Pontiac will sell you their information. Chevrolet so far has refused to release the information due to the huge volume involved. But, they do have it, so there is still hope.

If you are running a healthy small block, a 3.73 gear should be no big thing. I say put the gear in and let it eat. If you don't drive it that much, why the overdrive? I run 3.73 & 4.10 in 2 of my cars, and drive them anywhere. The extra RPM doesn't hurt. Remember, these cars are usually not driven much, so shouldn't wear out for years and years. Put the money into going faster. Big block!

Stick trans and 454 use a cast iron starter nose. The 350 & 400 turbo cars use the aluminium "cross bolt" nose, and the powerglide cars, which use the smaller flywheel, have the "long and short" aluminium nose, same as Cadillac. The cast iron nose uses a slightly shorter bolt than the cross bolt nose.

The balancer is orange, the pulleys are 60% black,(slightly glossier than semi-gloss). The booster is cad plated, which is kind of a dull silver. The master is natural, bare metal. You can blast it and clear with semi-gloss, or paint with cast iron grey.

I was speaking hypothetically. My blocks are fine.

They make 2 different 400 yokes. One uses the larger buick, olds, pontiac, and SS454 u joint, and the other uses the standard chevy u joint. Most chevys, except for 454s and some other death ray engines, and later full size wagons and such, use the smaller, standard joint. The drive shaft will be shorter. You can shorten the shaft easily. Scribe a line lengthwise on the end you are cutting so the end goes back in the tube in the same spot. Either end will do, as long as no weights are disturbed. Then cut through the weld with a hacksaw or a whizwheel,About 1/16"-1/8". Knock out end. Cut the tube as square as you can. The end is then pressed or knocked back in, making sure to line the scribe mark exactly. The end fits tightly, and should square itself in the tube. Weld the shaft up. You can almost always get by without having to rebalance the shaft.

They make 2 different 400 yokes. One uses the larger buick, olds, pontiac, and SS454 u joint, and the other uses the standard chevy u joint. Most chevys, except for 454s and some other death ray engines, and later full size wagons and such, use the smaller, standard joint. The drive shaft will be shorter. You can shorten the shaft easily. Scribe a line lengthwise on the end you are cutting so the end goes back in the tube in the same spot. Either end will do, as long as no weights are disturbed. Then cut through the weld with a hacksaw or a whizwheel,About 1/16"-1/8". Knock out end. Cut the tube as square as you can. The end is then pressed or knocked back in, making sure to line the scribe mark exactly. The end fits tightly, and should square itself in the tube. Weld the shaft up. You can almost always get by without having to rebalance the shaft.

Go to the junkyard! Just about all of the full sized GM cars except chevy ran 400 turbos If I remember, the switch and bracket and wire connector are all the same. Two bolts hold it in. To set once installed, push square sliding part that sticks out of the back, forward into the switch. This may take some effort. Then floor pedal. Switch is set. One wire comes from Key On power to the switch, the other goes to the trans. There may be 2 terminals on the trans. One is for downshift, the other, timing delay. When the car is off, the downsift terminal will have some continuity to ground, and the delay terminal will not. You must hook the downshift up, or it could cause premature wear on high gear clutches, due to lower engagement pressures, or so I was told.

Just a note about stamping engines; Chevrolet used a broaching process to deck their blocks. This process is very different from the resurfacing machines used in most machine shops, which are usually rotary cutters, like a van norman. These machines leave a very different finish on the deck surface, which will be seen by those who know what to look for. I have had engine pads inspected for this by potential buyers. If somebody decked my block, I'd want to know about it. Years from now, it could cause problems.

Is this for Canadian cars only?

I have seen them also with the build # behind the alternator, and the serial # down by the oil filter, on a 70.

What he is talking about is a fuel seperation system for the tank venting that was used on 71-72 cars and probably on the NA9 eguipped 70s. The vapor canister is pu front.

Factory order 12 bolts were available up to 4.56. I worked in a chevy dealer in 71. I actually test drove a 70 4 speed, bench seat car with a 4.56 open rear. Shoulda woulda coulda...

The hard plastic wheels are the same for all three years. The difference is the horn pad, which can be swapped around.

If I remember correctly, big blocks are supposed to be more red in color than small blocks.

Yes there would be spreaders as they are called, and no plug wire holders.

The fleur de Lys probably refers to the fact that Louis Chevrolet, the company's founder, was French.

What should be under the hood is EDP, electro-deposit primer. It's that black finish found on NOS panels. There may be considerable body color overspray underneath, as in the area of the hood striker. This finish, being primer, often weathered badly, becoming flat. I got to tour a GM assembly plant in 1971, and there was no paint applied to the undersides of the hoods, except for body color overspray. The paint "booths" were actually tunnels, and you could watch the entire process. The nose panels were painted seperately and then attached to the body, after being assembled into a complete nose.

One of those relays is the TCS relay which cuts off vacuum advance until 3rd and 4th gears, and may activate a throttle kicker solenoid if so equipped. The second relay is hooked to a temp sensor and overrides the other relay at cold and overheating temperatures, allowing advance for increased idle speed. ------------------ 70 Monte, 454, auto. 70 Monte, 454+.030, 4speed.71 Monte, 350 beater. 71 Monte SS 454. 65 Corvette coupe 365hp.

If you have air conditionning, your build sheet will have a option called AC conversion. Some cars are wilred for AC in the factory loom. The AC conversion cars have the wiring in the loom for non-AC heater fan, (the 3 wire connector you mention), and a seperate harness that goes from the AC control to the evaporator case, and the fuse box. This does all the heater/AC control. The 3 wire connector goes nowhere. Ignore it. ------------------ 70 Monte, 454, auto. 70 Monte, 454+.030, 4speed.71 Monte, 350 beater. 71 Monte SS 454. 65 Corvette coupe 365hp.