looter

it's a 6L currently, but I have a back up that I'm building that will be in the 408-421 cu in. range. I suspect with the high altitude where I live that 900 will be a livable combination. it is totally a street car....I started this deal 3 years ago just wanting a big block first Gen and here is where I have wound up. lol the LS platform is far and away the strongest starting point in my opinion.

thanks guys. the turbo is a 76mm I've built everything to support 1000+ in the engine, trans and fuel system. Now I'll just chase the rest of the weak links.

Hey guys, figured I'd throw a few pictures up. I've been burning out a little on the build and I'm getting much closer to done each day. Just looking for the final push to wrap up the detail end of things. it turns into not nearly enough hours in the day after working and rasing a family. I'm sure this isn't news to many members.

I never get tired of your car, Nick. Still building mine at a furious pace.....money be damned!

sorry for the dark pics. pretty much just flung the garage door open and snapped a couple with my phone. I'm trying to have the full mechanical part of the car done first before I get to messing with the body portion of the program, but yes, the car will have a mini tub. the wheel housings will only need to be a couple inches wider. one of the huge perks of working on a full sized car. next up, dropping in the 6.0

my rates are very reasonable! lol now to do some final clearancing and weld in some support.

Perfect. Thanks a bunch. Gives me exactly what I need to build the front suspension.

Thank you sir!

So the 2 easiest means of measurement are a car with no engine or inner fenders. Or a string run to the ground on each side and the distance measured there. Thanks for looking

Thanks Murphy. I didn't have any coffee in me and could have been more clear. My Z06 rims need spacers in the front because of their offset. I'm just not sure how wide the front track needs to be to stay within the front fenders. The measurement needs to be from the inner fender lip inside the wheel well. I could just run the stock steel wheels until I have it all back together, but I'm impatient that way. Lol

I know a couple guys likely have their Montes in various states of completion...lol I'm looking for a measurement from front fender to front fender. Ideally, it would be to the inner lip on each side. I can take some educated guesses, but I was hoping to not have to pull my fenders out of storage to do it. Thanks a bunch Warren

thanks for the tips...just needed a larger hammer apparantly. Don't feel like doing an update thread, so I'll just jack my own. suspension sitting here waiting for the frame to finish drying after getting painted over the weekend needs to not be -20 for some of this work. I REALLY need a reassembly guide......are the factory cdroms worth having?

Ok thanks guys, wasn't sure if I had to beat them into submission or not. Wonder if a 2 or 3 jaw puller would have enough jam to push them out?

hi guys, the protour build is moving right along. I'm about to do the frame notch. Before I do, I need all the new suspension and coilovers installed so the diff is in it's final rest place. are there any tips or tricks to getting the control arm bushings out of the differential? Thanks

ya Darren, I'm plotting the frame notch as we speak.....nothing a cutoff wheel and a welder cant' fix. lol Shawn, it's a Canadian company called MPS International, they are from Ontario. I had never seen one before but it's super handy so far despite not being able to do suspension work while it's tilted up.

those are good. I need them to plan how I'm going to get these to properly fit. 19x12 Z06 wheels. the plan for now is get them spaced as close to the rolled lip and then notch the frame and weld a plate in place to firm everything back up. I'm a sucker for punishment.......

it's coming along. going to finish prepping the floor this weekend and hopefully get a coat of por15 on it by the end of sunday. then bring it down, pull the body and then paint the spots hidden by the frame and the frame itself. Figured I've come this far might as well keep going. It's more labour than $$ at this point.

Thanks guys.I'll dig through the gallery. Hey Darren, here's what the car looks like right now.lol I think this is called build creep....lmfao

hey guys. Thinking there is some fab work in my future. Does anybody have some pics of their body off of the frame so I can sort of visualize what I need to do before I actually take my body off? Thanks Warren

haven't touched it in 4 days.....bringing home the cherry picker tonight and yanking the engine/trans. have 3 days off,so that's like 72 hours of labour I should have done before I go back to work....lol watching 3 tracking numbers for goodies.......a late xmas for me.

looks like for 1K it will be about as bulletproof as it can be...and considering 12 bolts are selling for $500 in this neck of the woods...I suppose I'm halfway there just keeping what I have. -master rebuild kit -strange/moser/williams etc axles -eaton posi -ring pinion -strange billet cap -diff cover

this post was made by Tobin of www.kore3.com he's super sharp and all he does is brakes. ( I just ordered the Z51 brake kits front and rear from him) **That depends on the generation of Corvette brakes and the wheels...but in general, C2/C3 brakes require 15" wheels, C4 12" brakes will require at least 16" wheels. Any of the C4 13" brakes or C5(Z06)/C6 base-level kits [12.79"] will require at least 17" wheels. C6 Z51 and C6 Z06 kits will require 18" wheels and the C6 ZR1 carbon/ceramics will require 19" wheels. Tobin KORE3

spent a few hours researching it. no reason to swap unless it's to a 9" ford. bearing/load surfaces are nearly identical between the 8.5 10 bolt and the 12. With minor upgrades I'd take the properly set up 10 over a 12.....just saved several hundred.