geartech

I've also seen ones that are different, without those clips, just the sticky stuff and some tabs. Mine is like this, here is a pic:

Was anything unusual done when it was built, besides the manual VB and stall converter? Generally speaking, its not a problem to change the converter without rebuilding it... as well as change the valve body back to a stock one, some other aftermarket one, or rework what was done to make that one manual. If the trans is generally working ok (no slipping, etc), you should be able to just change the valve body to a street/strip automatic one, or a stock one. If you buy a new one, I'd follow their instructions on the check balls to have in place and use the valve body plate supplied with the new valve body.

A machine shop should be able to do that.

I don't have the cast shims in that size and the thicknesses you need, I can help with a set of super shims if you want to go that way.

What are the inner and outer diameter of the shims you have? mostly the outer diameter. I'm having a brain fade as to which ones they are. I don't really keep track of which ones are for which rear, as I usually have one in my hand to compare to.

super shim packs (2 zip tied together):

You have a couple options, you can find other cast shims that are a different size (.005 thicker), or go with what they usually call a super shim. You used to be able to go to the GM dealer and order what size cast shim you wanted, but they do not have those anymore. A super shim kit is another option, I can take a picture to show what I mean, its hard to explain. It's 2 thicker shims that fit together, with a selection of thin ones in between, that way they dont get destroyed when you put them in. So use whichever thin shims you need in the 'pack' to get it to the thickness you need. I have a super shim kit I can send you if its what you want, also I may have the cast shims, I'd have to look later. So you would be shooting for .245 and .265, is that right? As far as whether you need more preload, if you can turn those shims by hand, then you don't have any preload, you can probably lift the carrier right out? (without prying) Sounds like you're on the right track with .005 per side additional shim to give you some preload.

what type of carrier shims do you have? the solid cast ones? or the aftermarket type, that are two thicker shims sandwiching thin (varying thicknesses) shims? If you have solid cast ones and you try to put a thin .005" in with it in there, it will just probably destroy the thin one...

I haven't been keeping up with your thread, but that looks nice now. I've never had any luck with 'fitment' bearings, except for a pair of Dana 60 carrier bearings I've made like that. They have very thin shims under the carrier bearings so they work well to set it up and then press them on once. For pinion bearings, I've never had any luck though, like you said.

I just had this happen to me (replaced the gasket twice) in a Lemans I have with a TH400. It turned out to be the dipstick tube O-ring, not the pan gasket after all, although it looked like it to me at first. Also the modulator is right there too.

Yeah, as long as its in the range, even .012 or a little more is ok if its a used gearset. If you want to get exact about it, drag racers will generally go tighter, even .004, as they are only going 1/4 mile at a time, and want maximum gear contact. But then something like a one-way moving van should be at the looser end of the scale for the most gear oil between the gears, as they get very hot for a long time. .011 is perfect for what you are doing, or what I imagine anyway (some highway). Something set up too tight and driven on the highway won't last. Ideally, since you are using a used gearset, I would go for what it had (within a thousandth or two) when you took it apart (assuming no major problems when you measured that) so that its set up into the same pattern. But that's getting picky really...as long as its in the range. For what its worth, the gearsets I've re-used in the same housing like that, generally don't require any shim changes from what you took out. Not always, but most of the time. For the brand, I usually look for valvoline, but it really doesn't matter. 80W90 is the good ol' normal gear oil. 75W90 is synthetic, would also work. 75W140 is synthetic too but isn't necessary unless its a truck with some weight involved or towing.

You are not going to have any problems with new bearings/new crush sleeve and 20-25 in/lbs.... The thing is, its not an exact thing to begin with. Once you break in that rearend you can't say it will be 20 or 15 or 10 in lbs. Tapered bearings just have to have a slight preload and it goes without saying that a gearset is picky enough that it can't have any play in where the pinion could move. To compare, when you go to put in the carrier, you will be putting shims in the sides where the (tapered) bearings are. These are the shims you use to adjust backlash (and preload on these bearings). You will have to have preload here as well, but there is no way to measure it. You just have to be sure the shims go in with some force to put preload on the bearings. How much force is not really describable, experience will give you that. They have to be put in with some force and the carrier should have to be pried out if/when you remove it. No way to measure the rotational torque there. Its good you are concerned you are doing it right, that's the only way you'll be successful with a rearend setup. But I think you're on the right track -use 20 lbs with new parts and it will be fine.

Yeah, I wouldn't use that either, if that is the 'right one', that would not set a dependable preload. That looks like a BOP 8.2 crush sleeve. You should be able to get the right one from Randy's Ring and Pinion or the type that someone pointed out for changing the preload to shims instead of a crush sleeve...

Yes, the inch pounds setting is the rotational torque. With a crush sleeve it is set by how far you go tightening the nut. Have to be careful because the (new) crush sleeve with be difficult to crush at first then it will go quickly. I've only used my dial type torque wrench (inch-pounds), or by feel once you done it alot. You could probably find a deflection type inch pounds torque that will get you close enough. Generally speaking, the spec is about 20-25 in/lbs for new bearings and 15 or so for used bearings. This is because the finish wears off a new bearing right away, and it will be a very little less preload after it has ran. btw, I dont think a clicker type torque wrench would work at all for this.

Yes, if your axle bearings are pressed on (not a c-clip rear) then you have a BOP rear. In 1969 (I think) the BOP rear changed ring gear bolt sizes. I had a 69 Lemans some time ago, and I had that posi carrier vs ring gear bolt size problem. Chevrolet did put those in Monte's for some reason from the factory as other people have pointed out. Do you have the casting number from the axle housing? Or pictures?