Jump to content

gdubya

(Non-dues paying)
  • Posts

    44
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

1 Neutral

About gdubya

  • Birthday 05/07/1975

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    g_weidman@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida,USA
  • Legal Name
    Gerry Weidman
  • Occupation
    Automotive Professional
  • My Monte ('s)
    1970 SS 454

Profile Fields

  • Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for all the replies. I should have stated I am not doing a stock rebuild. I’m going to squeeze as much out of the motor as possible without compromising the integrity of the original block. Bored (.030 or .060) and stroked, roller, head work, etc.
  2. I am in the process of rebuilding my 70SS 454. Running headers isn't an option as I want to keep it original and true to the car. Any recommendations on how to go about getting the best performance out of the original manifolds? Or just clean them up (or find replacements) and run it back? Thanks in advance, GW
  3. Thanks to everyone who replied. My gut was telling me they didn’t have one. I had a rather original 71 as a kid and clearly remember just the tube hanging down. Thanks again.
  4. I know this topic has come up in the past but can someone clarify if a 1970 SS came from the factory with a coolant overflow bottle/reservoir? I have seen so many different variations from none (as seen on the Fifer restoration), one mounted to the fender, to one mounted to the under fender well. Also, if it came from the factory with one does anyone have a picture of the OEM style. I know any parts store has a universal one but I am not interested in those. Thanks in advance Gerry
  5. James/Willie Thanks for the help. If you can find the thread or who makes them please let me know. I want to make dash replacement the last resort. James - I live in Tampa.
  6. My rear defog only works in the Hi position. I tested for voltage at the motor and I get 12v in the Hi position and 0 in the Lo. Pulled the switch out and noticed there are only 2 pins on the back so I thought perhaps one had broken off at some point. When I searched eBay for a replacement it appears they all have just 2 pins. Is that correct? Before I buy a new switch, does anyone know how I can test the switch to be sure? When I test across the power pin to the Hi pin I get resistance. When I test across the power pin to where the Lo pin should be I get resistance that is different than across the Hi pin. Make sense and leads me to believe the switch is working but I get 0v at the motor in Lo. Maybe the internal power circuit on the switch is broken? Any help would be appreciated. GW
  7. So, the part of the dash the radio mounts to is broken so there is no way connect the radio to the dash. Does someone make a plate to fix this or is my only option to replace the entire dash?
  8. The ground was off the motor but even after I grounded it it didn’t work. Getting power to motor but only in Hi position. Nothing in Low. hopefully get out there tomorrow to do more digging.
  9. Red Thanks again for your help. I have power windows and locks so I would bet it is one of those. I will trace it down if need be. Just waiting on my radio harness to arrive so I can put her back together. Meanwhile, I will need to do some cleanup of the previous owners wiring hatchet job and work on the defog motor. Appreciate your help, GW
  10. Yup! It was for the clock. Although the clock doesn’t work but at least that mystery is solved. Sorry to keep asking questions but not sure what this is either. Only gray wire in the wiring diagram is for the panel lamps and I don’t see it splitting. In the pic two gray wires come from the Acc slot in the panel and then one goes up perhaps to the dash lights. The second goes into a weird connector extension/converter where it turns to a red wire.
  11. Red you beat me to it. Any idea about the singe orange wire? If you need a better picture let me know. It is not an easy spot to get to. I traced it up into the main wiring harness where it heads back towards to driver's side and then dips back towards the fuse block (I believe).
  12. I just bought the radio harness from eBay. Thanks for the heads up
  13. Red, I cannot thank you enough. Here are some pics of the connector. Not easy to get a good pic of location. It comes off the harness and drops down below the radio. looking at the wiring diagram I feel like it is supposed to feed the courtesy lamps but not really sure. Any ideas on what it would plug into it?
  14. Thanks again Red. The courtesy lamps were originally plugged into the fuse box as you described and they worked. Looking at how it was wired I could tell it wasn’t factory correct. Looking at the wiring diagrams, in an original car it appears the lamps are fed from an orange wire from the dash harness you describe. I found an orange wire with a connector at the end. Do you think the lamps feed from this in an original set up? Why does the defog have a pigtail connector? When I found the car the defog was plugged into the orange wire I described above but I agree it should go into the panel because you only want it hot with key on. I have power to the fan only in Hi and not in Low plus I think the motor is shot. The motor is grounded. Perhaps motor is shot. Going to pull out and bench test
  15. Thanks Red The defog wire was originally plugged into an orange wire behind the ac controls and not into the fuse box. Is that the short orange wire you are talking about? I think that is where the original courtesy lamps may have plugged into. If that is the case, where can I find replacement connectors? Not sure the connector on the defog will plug in as it is a different style of connector. Not sure the defog harness is original to the car or not. It was built with rear defog but not sure of originality.
×
×
  • Create New...