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CKZ03 last won the day on December 11 2015

CKZ03 had the most liked content!

About CKZ03

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    72 CUSTOM
  • Birthday 02/07/1970

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    Prison City, Michigan
  • Legal Name
    Cory Mohlman
  • Occupation
    Auto body & paint

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  1. Nice creativity, really like what ur doing! Can't wait to see it finished.
  2. Hello Steve, I used a kit from Nu Relics for the front and rear. I'm sure they have a kit for just the fronts, as well as several different switch options. The 70-72 Chevelle kit worked nicely for me. Fronts were direct bolt in no drilling necessary except for wire pass fhru door to pillar. The rears were also direct bolt in however I felt it necessary to reinforce the mount points and also create and adjustable stop for the down travel. Seems on the rears the factory stop was in the wrong place or non existant (can't remember the exact problem) in my car for some reason. I also used the factory style rubber boots vs the ones supplied in the kit as the factory style look correct and have a larger diameter. I believe I got the boots from the parts place. Just call the parts place and ask them for the original style. The link below shows a few other options, not sure which is correct. Shop around as some of their dealers offer cheaper prices than Nu Relics site. If I remember correctly I made my purchase either on eBay or matts classic bowties. Also someone makes a switch out of the manual window crank that would work nicely if your going from manual to power and don't want to buy new door panels due to the fact your gonna have a hole where that crank used to be. http://www.nu-relics.com/chevelle-s/225.htm http://www.mattsclassicbowties.com/contents/en-us/d2977_Power_Window_Kits.html https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/chevrolet-monte-carlo-parts.aspx?modelName=Chevrolet+Monte+Carlo&modelID=2&year=1972 http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=45821
  3. I have been meaning to get back here and update you all once I have had some road time in. Sadly I havent had much time to drive her. Ive managed to put on only 80 miles in the last month since getting the engine in and working out several gremlins. Should have been a simple engine swap LOL, due to changing sooo many things I had several issues. As always in my case the car loves to fight with me and seems I must beat it into submission. But I managed to get past her stubborness and actually get her down the road. I will have to update again once I rack some more miles on but for now heres what I can tell you. Not sure of fuel economy yet, but doesnt seem very good LOL. A bit of a learning curve driving her with the new power level, I find myself going sideways sometimes (when I didnt mean to). I used to think my tires had plenty of traction (Nitto 555's 255 50 17) come to find out they spin like mad even at 3/4 throttle LOL. Quite happy with the results so far and looking to gather more data for you guys in the next month as I plan on getting more road time with her.
  4. Let's see if any of this works. The data scans look pretty blurry I may have to try something different to upload them here and this photobucket video probably won't work either Heres a couple videos Sam Seems to work, click on pic below you tube on run stand dyno data
  5. Pretty sure u would kill me in a race Al Today's dyno results - 511tq/471hp target was to build 475tq/475hp so needless to say I'm happy with the results couldn't get mich closer than that! I will post the entire dyno data sheets later. Pics to prove, I know it's a pretty scary looking dyno
  6. Here is a peek at the nearly finished product, will have some dyno results on Tuesday next week.
  7. Bought rad/fans together as a combo unit, a little re engineering to mount it up but quite easy regardless. I have seen several companies that do sell just fan/shroud assemblies which may get a little tricky to match up and mount with your existing rad though. Here is the combo I purchased, it's a Griffin CU 70008. I had to grind off the original lower perches, find suitable rubber to use in lower mount area, grind a little off center section of lower rad for clearance towards the center, grind & reshape the upper rubbers but other than that the upper mounts remain the same. You will have to tweak your trans lines some to get them to line up also. Had to find a lower hose same shape as Monte but with a 1.75 outlet size, found one extremely close but yet to install to see if it will work or not, I'm sure it will tho. If so can provide a dayco number if anyone is in need. Link to Griffin info... The actual dimensions of rad is 33" X 19" X 3", the ones listed on Griffins site are core measurements only. Their total width 6.42" is of course with fans/shroud mounted. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details6.php?PartID=387&id=CU-70008&year=72&make=Chevrolet&model=Monte%20Carlo&select_Main_Group=1972&select_Sub_Group=Chevrolet&select_Sub_Group_model=Monte%20Carlo&select_Sub_Group_Engine=28%20X%2019&select_Sub_Group_Transmission=TOC&key_id=8-70008
  8. Getting closer, hope to be up and running in a few weeks. I have a real slow engine builder but we're almost there. Adding a more sufficient cooling system while I'm at it.
  9. Was hoping I would not have to do this but NOOOO, couldn't be that lucky. Clearanced out the block for the 383 build, rods would not clear. Wasn't to bad to do, only took about an hour using a belt grinder. Yes I verified I had .060 or better once finished . Also acquired some more parts. Pro systems carb, custom built for this engine. It's a 950 cfm body dialed down to an 840, which is crazy huge in comparison to the 600 I was using on my 355. Also just got my heads AFR 195 street eliminators
  10. Not today but last weekend I pulled the old engine (not real old, only 4200 miles on it LOL) in preparation for the new stroker.
  11. I went with the Classic Instruments conversion just like the ebay posting above. The one shown in that add is the Velocity Series in Black. They offer several color and font options for the gauge face itself, you can even customize the pointer any color or style you choose. I liked the old school look of the needles vs digital. The gauges fit very good and work perfect, wiring was pretty easy too. If you go this route make sure you opt for the Sky Drive gps speedo, otherwise you will probably have some jumping of the speedo needle as I did (maybe). With out the Sky Drive option it uses a pulse signal generator (flux capacitor LOL) that plugs into your regular speedo gears at the trans. I found this was problematic and finally went with the gps set up. The guys at Dannys speed shop blew away any prices I seen anywhere, I would certainly call and get their price if your interested in these gauges http://shop.classicinstruments.com/1970-72-chevelle-ss-package http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn81 http://www.dannysrods.com/
  12. Here's mine, nice piece I think. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9135?seid=srese1&gclid=CKymxonu8MkCFYU-aQod80MM9Q Heres about 300 more options http://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Coolant%20overflow%20tanks
  13. Good topic Sam, as you know Straub preaches it's the "combination", what that means is the right combo of parts. Pistons, heads, cam, intake, carb, compression ratio etc. all need to cooperate together for maximum efficiency and this is a list/formula that will do just that. Many people try going with a bigger cam in an effort to get more power which isn't always the case. I'm no cam expert but I have learned that when comparing cam profiles you can't look at std hydraulic #'s vs roller cam #'s in comparison they aren't apples to apples. You are correct tho this is a pretty mild cam. The selection on this cam was also to keep the car very streetable as I will do little to no racing with it. I'm curious myself how it's going to perform, & makes me really want to dyno it once completed, kinda skeptical myself. However I have searched the internet for similar combinations and have actually found similar builds with less cubic inches producing nearly the same hp/tq with similar cams so I'm pretty sure Straub is on the money with this. On a side note, carb recommendations have been way more CFM's than I would thought for this. I was thinking a 750 would be plenty. Straub is recommending an 850 and Pro Systems suggests a 950, whoaaa! [censored]? Carb selection is a month or two down the road right now and I'm actually considering EFI as an option too. Possibly a system like this https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/
  14. Ok guys back to this 383 build. Thanks for the input so far. Its taking me awhile to gather my parts together, kinda buying them as I can afford it. But Im just about to get going with assembly here. Figured instead of making a parts list its just as easy to post invoices of what I have purchased so far. You should be able to zoom in to read part #'s & pricing. So if anyone is thinking of a similar build they have some part #'s. This is going to wind up just over 10:1 Compression, Straub says 10.5:1. He also states should be @ 475hp and 500tq easy, may get it dynoed once complete to get some exact #'s. Cam specs will be listed below. I originally thought Straub was going to grind me a custom cam but turns out an off the shelf Clay Smith cam would be perfect for me here, so thats what he sent me out. All the parts on this build are from Straubs recommendations, except for the forged rotating assembly, you could get away with some cheaper/stock/non forged components there but I opted to pay a little more for piece of mind. http://www.claysmithcams.com/sbc-350-to-360-cid-afr-180-to-190-head-max-power-6000-6200-rpm-peak-torque-3800/ I chose a internally balanced forged (crank, rods and pistons are all forged) kit from Scat costing just over $1500. According to Scat most 383 builds with these I beam & 7/16 cap rods may not need any additional clearancing. We will see about that as the assembly process will be beginning soon. More info on that later. Im using Morel hydraulic roller lifters, Crane gold roller rockers, AFR 195 75cc heads (pistons are +3.7cc flat top), Rollmaster Billet timing set. A 6 quart oil pan with crank scraper and windage tray. All ARP bolts. Pics below will sum up everything else pretty much. Im in this so far for about $6000, started out with a free 4 bolt main block circa 1971 out of a chassis cab, probably a dump truck. Labor on the block (without any clearancing done yet) came to $270. Cleaned and inspected, bored .30 over, decked and cam bearings installed.
  15. You can use an adjustable timing light or put some of that degree tape all the way around your balancer. This may help http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-56112.html
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