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My clock stopped! Is there a way of removing the clock without dropping the steering column and the front of the dash?? Can it be removed from the top after removing the dash pad? Any "tricks" to get it out would be appreciated.

RichMonte

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mike, there are a few fixes - assuming one gets it out. 1. good old rehab ie cleaning, filing points etc. It usually is the points are stuck together or just burned out.

2. buy new clock with same old points style mechanism.

3.send clock out to repair shop. cost approx $125.

4.Buy new quartz style clock - just slap it in.

And finally 5. just set the old one at 12:00 and slam it back in if #1 doesn't work.

RichMonte

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Hi Rich,

 

Thanks for the info. I have 3 montes and they are all set to 12 o'clock. As they say, they are correct twice each day. I've never taken a clock apart before, but I have a spare one (doesn't work either) that I can take a look at.

 

I would really like option 4. Do you have any suggestions as to where I can get a unit to swap in? How easy/difficult is that?

 

Thanks,

Mike

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Mike, here is a co. in Illinois - Instrument Services Inc. (800)558-2674. They do restorations and have new clocks including a quartz replacement for $91 plus 12 shipp.the last time I checked. They have a small catalog they can send you.Let me know how what you do.

 

Also, how do I get mine out without "dropping the dash?

 

Richard

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Hi Rich,

 

I've only taken the instrument cluster out a few times and I am by no means an expert in this area, but here is kind of what I did:

 

1) I took the dash pad off because I removed the cluster out of the top of the dash.

2) I removed some of the "under dash" pieces around the steering column, but I don't think I lowered the steering column. If you do, it's only a few nuts anyway. I did this so I would have easier access to some of the screws that hold the cluster in.

3) You will have to remove the screw that controls the "shift indicator" pointer and slide off the piece of metal that holds the wire to the indicator. If you don;t know what I mean, I will give you more details.

4) I loosened some of the screws/nuts/bolts that hold the entire dash assembly to the firewall of the car. I did this in order to gain some clearance in order to lift the instrument cluster out.

5) I unplugged the plug in the wiring harness that connects to the printed circuit.

6) I unplugged the plug in the wiring harness that connects to the headlight switch.

7) There may be a wire on the back of the clock that may need to be disconnected. I don't remember. You will have to check.

8) You will need to remove the speedometer cable from the speedometer in the cluster. If you are not sure how that is done, I can give you some more detail. I think I unplugged this by sticking my hand up from underneath the cluster.

9) You will need to remove the screw that holds the knob onto the clock adjusting shaft and remove the knob so the shaft can exit the dash assembly.

10) I removed all of the bolts that hold the instrument cluster to the dash assembly.

11) I lifted the instrument cluster up and out of the dash assembly. Try to be careful not to scuff or scratch the plastic faces of the instruments (like I did).

 

If I din't forget anything, it should come up and out of the dash. If you start to remove it and something is still attached, then I missed something.

 

My most "valuable" tip/suggestion would be to look at the back of an instrument cluster that has already been removed from a car in order to pre-locate all of the screws that ned to be removed. These screws are hard to see and hard to get at if you don't know where they are. Some can be gotten from the top, and some from the bottom. If you know where they are and what they look like, then half of the battle is done. I can send some pics if you need some.

 

Second suggestion: Be careful with the printed circuit (like I did). Over the years, they can be pretty brittle, especially in the upper left-hand corner. If it gets damaged during the removal, some of your lights will not work and an aftermaket one will run around $100.

 

Third suggestion: Be careful not to scuff or scratch the plastic faces of the instruments (like I did).

 

Forth suggestion: Make sure the "blue" high beam plastic piece does not get lost from the front of the dash (like mine did). Otherwise, you will have a bright light glaring in your eyes at night when you have the high beam lights on (like I do).

 

Hope this helps. I tried to remember as many thing as I could so you don't make some of the mistakes that I did. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Mike

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Mike,

Thanks for the input. Your removal procedure is the "FullMonte" of our dash removals.

I guess there is no easy way to just get the clock out from the top.

Richard

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Hi Rich,

 

First of all, I made a mistake in regards to step 6 about the headlight switch. Instead you should removed the headlight knob/shaft piece from the front of the dash and then remove the threaded nut from the front of the headlight switch and then just push the switch through the instrument cluster and leave connected to the harness, but push off to the side.

 

Secondly, if you are considering doing all of this just to get the clock out, I would then say, just take the clock out of the instrument cluster and save yourself lots of time. You will have to remove a few bulbs, move back the printed circuit, and take out three small screws, but I think you will be able to get to these without any problems. By the way, there is one wire on the back of the clock. If you need some pics, let me know.

 

Also, I am looking at the clock unit that I took out of my instrument cluster and wondering how to get the hands off of the clock. Do they just pull off? Is that the way to get inside to the contacts?

 

Thanks,

Mike

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Mike thanks for the clarification.

As far as the hands are concerned, i have not taken a 72 generation clock apart, but the hands are usually just pressed on the shaft. Is there a way to open the clock from the back?

If you have pictures send me some.

Thanks

Richard

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Hi Rich,

 

I'll make you a deal. You tell me how to fix my clocks and I'll give you detailed steps on the best way to get the clock out. I'll have lots of practice once I get them all fixed. I'll also send you some pics via email.

Mike

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Mike, deal! Those pics are super.There has to be a way to open that bugger. See my email.

As a last resort if you want to Fedex me your extra clock I will look at it and send it back to you. Promise!

Richard

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AUTO restorer magazine http://www.autorestorermagazine.com/ar/Magazine.aspx?aid=14239&sts=all&sectionid=122 had a good article on restoring clock in the July 2005 issue. The clock shown was from a 71 Buick. The article has three pages with instructions and 12 photos. Available on back order and worth the money if you plan on redoing a clock.

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Hi Steve,

 

You wouldn't happen to have a copy of that issue on Clock Repair around, do you? I would love to get a copy of that article. I got my clock to work, but am curious about "the correct method" of fixing it. I'm not sure that massive doses of oil, an air hose, electrical shocks and a ball-peen hammer are the correct method of repair.

Thanks,

Mike

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A hammer may be a bit much for the clock, laugh If I can figure out how to work my fancy new fax,copier, scanner, confused I will send you the info by email. I'll work on it later today.

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Hi Steve.

 

My personal email is "packard36@juno.com"

My work email is "brichmics@bethlehem-pa.gov"

 

Thanks for all of your help !!!

Mike

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As of 1:46 pm, I still didn't get anything. What is it that you are trying to send? Is it a word document, .jpg, etc.? If you are sending it as an attachment, what is the file extension of the attachment?

Mike

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It's 4 attachments. Your work firewall may not be letting them through. Ill try Juno with just one atachment. Four may have been too much for it.

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I will have to send them one at a time to Juno. The second email was too big for your mailbox. I will try again later when you clear out some space.

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