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Need expert advice..Rust on roof by window


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Ok, I removed the vinyl top and removed the rear window and now I can see what I am up against. I already know that I will have to replace the quarters and the piece between the rear window and the trunk. But now I have run into more rust around the top of the rear window and window ledge. See pic on page below.

 

http://home.alltel.net/paquin/pictures_5.htm

 

Now what, do I see if I can find a partial roof from a donor, or is this somehow salvagable. Again with the window removed I have found rust along the ledge that the window rests on so it looks like part of the metal that may need to go is on the inner shell. Advice?

 

confused

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You can make a rear window channel with sheetmetal and a sheetmetal break. It's not that hard. Make it in several smaller pieces/weld it in and no one will ever know.

 

An easier way to repair the top of a window is to find a parts car and cut the parts you need from the parts car. While Monte's rust in the lower rear window, upper window rust is much more rare. Finding a donor car should not be difficult.

 

Not wanting to rain on your parade, however if you need this much sheetmetal, it will be cheaper/easier to find a "good" body hull and do a swap. The time you spend traveling to pick up a good body will be shorter, cost MUCH cheaper and the effort MUCH easier than doing roof repair/lower rear window repair/trunk repair/quarter panel replacement etc.

 

Cheap Monte's that are rust free or almost rustfree are still available in the South/West. It is still easier and cheaper to drive 1,500 miles to get a car than all that sheetmetal work. Unless your car is a documented/loaded SS 454, I would give this serious consideration. This will be cheaper/ easier than all the work you have outlined and you can sell the rest of the car/parts to also recoup more of your money.

 

I have built LOT's of A body Chevelles and a few Monte's. My days of quarter panels, roof repair, trunk repair etc are over. It's a little harder to find a rustfree car, but MUCH cheaper/easier in the end.

 

Monte's are not worth enough "YET" to justify a lot of sheetmetal work in MY OPINION!

 

Something to consider?

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MJS-13, Except for the front fender, which is dented, the rest of the body is fine, so i guess i never really thought about a whole body.

 

I don't think that its an option for me to form the metal myself. sounds like a lot of work.

 

I have sent a couple of emails to a couple of body parts places, so i guess my next step is to see what comes back.

 

So far I need a rh fender, two quarters, the trunk/window piece, and a bit of metal around teh roof/window area.

 

Doors, hood and LH fender are good to go.

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Hey Hey

Creedog check out port-15 they sell a kit for rust out panels but I think you should replase as munch metal as you can then use the port -15 to stop the rust and if you do buy it buy it in quarts or pints becase it gets hard fast I went with a gallon and I hope I can open it and if I can that there is some that I can still use It dows stop rust do to there web site www.por15.com

Dave

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Creedog,

 

Yep both of those are what you are looking for. I have used the POR 15 on a bunch of projects and have had great luck with it. I used their chassie black to go over the top of the POR 15 on the frame rails of my Monte, and on the Olds as well. Check them out in my sig.

 

Ian

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Creedog,

 

Quarter skins will cost you at least $200 a side plus shipping. If you need quarter panels you WILL need outer wheel housings. They are NOT available in repo for Monte's therefore your choice is to adapt a Chevelle housing or not replace at all. If you need a quarter panel, you NEED outer wheel housings, trust me! GM quarter panels are no longer avaialable from GM so you have to find a NOS "New Old Stock" set somebody has for sale. Last set available here on the site was $1,500 plus shipping. Installation of skins or quarters will be at least $300 as side at a body shop with another $75-100 for the outer wheel housings. A usuable right fender will set you back about $250. You can probably adapt a repo Chevelle lower rear window piece between the trunk lid and the rear window on your Monte. I am not sure if a specific one of these pieces is repo'd for a Monte. Expect labor to be at least $250. You can always do like everyone else and load it up with bondo, kitty hair or POR 15. I am not knocking this approach however it is not correct or everlasting. However, the original GM sheetmetal was not everlasting either!

 

Gee, I just spent at least $1,500 of your money to do the rear body repairs not including the right front fender. Second, how much time and aggravation our you going to endure with your local bodyman when it sits there 6 months with no work. Given your earlier response that you "don't think it's an option for me to form the metal myself", I assume you also will not be able to install the quarter and the piece behind the rear window. This is NO knock against your ability whatsoever as it is a learned skill however I must assume that you will have to pay to have this work completed. Now you see why I suggest a rustfree body may not be such a bad idea.

 

Good luck with your project!

 

Mike

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Hey Hey

Creedog I see you are on your way with the por-15 and yes you do need the tie coat and if you need outer wheels check out my tripod web-page I used chevelle I did the driver side first and cut it in half I should not have done that check out the passenger side it came out better

Dave

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Mike, your scaring me now. Just for kicks how much do you think I rust free body might cost?

 

I have a few things going for me.

 

Time. I am in no rush. Soon I will have a cherry 78 ford f100 to tinker with. Plus, I really do want to learn to weld, so who knows what I might be able to do with a lot of practice.Time also allows me to build up the funds I need for this project.

 

Location. Year One is just down the street. Might be able to save on shipping by picking things up from them. Their quarters are $1300 for the side.

 

Buddys: I have a few friends who have done this sort of thing before.

 

I actually spoke to my wife about the possibilty of finding a rust free body and driving to AZ or TX to pick it up. Knowing that I would have to eat up a bunch of vacation time and rent a trailer. Heck, not even sure what I would use to haul the trailer. Cetainly not the 78 ford.

 

What I really need to do at this point is get an expert opinion of what needs to go and what needs to stay on my car. Time to visit a quality body shop in my area. First I need to get all the trim of the car to be able to really inspect the lower areas of the car.

 

Definetly food for thought. Thanks

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first off

 

CHECK WITH LEO KONIK on the parts sources list on the main page first. if he doesnt have it then check theses guys...

 

the parts place has N.O.S. parts like the pass side fender "the drivers side is not cheap" so if you have to replace that side dont buy it there otherwise its 1200 for the drivers side fender the pass side might be cheaper. the quarters they might have as well but check around first "ebay and such" the decklid filler panel they have as well its a repro and they do not come with the studs for the vinyl top. for the roof definately you will have to find a donor for that.

 

alex

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Creedog,

 

With some effort you can find a rustfree unrestored grandma car for $2000-$3000 that is usually driving.

 

Remember, you are only interested in body condition. The rest does not matter unless the car you buy is better than the car you have. Then you have to make a choice as to which Monte lives and which Monte dies as a parts car! Kinda turns you into the grim reaper, doesn't it?

 

The best stuff is out West in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and California. Find one were the interior is toast but a nice body. You will not find this type of car from a dealer. You must find it from an individual. Hello Autotrader or make lots of calls to folks out West to look for you and pay a finders fee!

 

This may not sound all that easy or cheap however neither is installing all that sheetmetal. Remember, YOU said you had lots of time to do the sheetmetal work so you could also spend time finding a good body.

 

Good luck with your project!

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Hello,

 

This is a good car. What I see is a solid car overall with rust issues in common areas caused by the vinyl top. The floors look good so overall I think it is a keeper. Bear with me on this. The attitude it takes to restore an old car is simular to the attitude it takes to be married or involved in a serious relationship. There will always be a better deal, better body, faster engine and nicer car out there than yours. These better deals and nicer cars will have their problems too maybe they'll be worse than yours. If you have decided to commit to this project for the long haul. Do what it takes to overcome this damage. This could take several years. Work with what you have and build your skills up to overcome these challanges. The only way to fix rust out is to cut it out and replace it. A body shop will charge a fortune to do this and they may not do it right. The only option here is to take the time and learn how to fix it. Build your skill up. All it will take is time. All you need is a big hammer, a little hammer and some sort of straight egde surface like a steel rail or table to form your metal over. Lumber could even be used to start with. A metal brake mentioned in other posts would be handy but you dont haft to have it. Curves could be pounded out over round surfaces like steel pipe. Practice making the angles and bends these panels have. Practice welding these pieces together. Take poster board and cut it and bend it to match the rusted areas and reproduce these cardboard templates in metal. When your confident in your skill and only then, take on the car. These fab skills may take a long time to master. So while you practice in your spare time you can still enjoy the car. Fix other areas and come back to the sheetmetal later. Drive it with pride rust holes and all on sunnydays until youre ready to make these repairs or bondo and primer over it to buy you even more time. When all is said and done you will have a correctly repaired car and an exrta measure of pride knowing what you have acomplished. There still will be nicer better cars than that one but none of them will come close to the one you repaired and in the process put a little of yourself into.

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