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40 Min + $17 = Whoa Power!


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  This weekend's project turned out so cheap and easy, that I can't believe that I hadn't done it years ago!

 

 

 

  Several weeks back, I swapped billet hubs, C5 disks, and calipers onto the front of the '72; (still need to change out the bearing cap):

 

 

 

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  Even with the new 13" binders, due to inadequate vacuum, stopping was spooky.  So, I hit the local parts yard  and found a '97 Chevy 2500 with hydraboost to become an organ donor to the Monte.    $17 out the door...

 

 

 

 

hydro%20boost_zpsvjuyodvh.jpg

 

 

 

I compared the length of the actuating rod in the vacuum booster to that in the hydrabooster, and cut and threaded the rod to mimic the first; then a quick rattle-can over-haul, and 

she was sparkling and mounted in her new home.  40 minutes in all!

 

 

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  I'll swap on the rear disks in a few days, and replace the current master cylinder with the new 1.125  '68 Vette model when I do:

Master%20cylinder_zpsilgbt4us.gif

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   Thanks Mike.

 

    ...For those that have installed rear disks,  if you can give me some advice on which units are the better to switch to, I'd be grateful.   

 

   While I was picking up the Hydraboost from the parts yard, I pulled a couple of complete rear disk assemblies that will bolt onto our cars.

 

         The first was from a '93 Firebird:  

 

       93%20Camaro%20Rear%20Disks_zpsrrof54fw.j

 

   

    I liked the small footprint, light weight, and cooling fins on these PBRs;  but the awkward E-brake spring and dampener with its face hanging out in the wind does little for me. 

 

 

 

  The second set was from a 2000 S10/Blazer:

 

 

 

        b0bee21b-4b94-4040-94df-8b842ced3dd9_zps

 

 

 

   I liked the E-brake design on these... its incorporated into the high-hat of the rotor like a mini-drum brake.  The caliper was big and clunky compared to the F-body's, but I guess it does match the front 'Vett's profile pretty much.  So...   have any of you done much research on the pro's and con's of the different set-ups?  Thanks so much,  Doug

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   Sorry, Daryl...  I'm not going to be of much help to you, as I had no vacuum assist at all to start out with, so my comparison will be against that, and this hydraboost will have to be a 1000% improvement.  And, unfortunately,  I'm in the same boat as you:  caught up in Sam's darned snowball!  It'll be over a month, at least, before she's on the road again.  

 
  As you may have read, my simple, initial plan, was to relocate my battery to the trunk.  But, I now have quickly gone from this:
 
   Candy72d_zpsff34307b.jpg
 
 
  To this:
 
  16c6fedd-bc03-4195-82be-955d2cb06eed_zps
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So far all 4 of our classic have been swapped over to rear disc and kept the power assistance system but with it being made for a 4 wheel disc car. Three out of the four use a kit from Stainless Steel brake company the calipers are off of a 88 Ford Turbo coupe same with the e-brake under the body. The last kit came from Wilwood brakes and it uses a hub hat e-brake setup like the Blazers setup above. The calipers on the Wilwood setup is an alumin 4 piston designed and quick change pads once the carter key is removed.

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I am hoping my car is drivable by this Fall. I'm 100% sure it will feel like a total different animal. I went from a stock car with a transplanted Ls5 to a 4 wheel disc, hydroboost, 3" drop, tubular A arms, 4L80 trans, 650Hp motor, 4.10 posi, forged axles and a quicker ratio steering box. Oh and I forgot about the much bigger tires over the stock ones. Keep us posted with your progress. How do you like your patriot heads? I have them too but as I said I havn't driven it yet. For my rear disc brakes I have the type that mechanically operate the pads for the E-brake.

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   Thanks Timothy and Daryl, and thanks M-70 for the brake info.

 

     I was pleasantly surprised with the Patriots; I try to stick with on-shore goods whenever it's possible, and the Patriots blend these lines like most automotive products today.   Their cost is contained through the Chinese labor, but US parts are utilized in their assembly.  American bronze guides, stainless 2.250/1.880 valves with a 5-angle valve job, .600 hydraulic roller springs, steel retainers, 7/16 studs, guide plates, and Viton seals. They have a 320 cc intake runner  and 119 cc chamber. Chevy High Performance bolted these to a block and produced 675 hp .   I really wasn't expecting a lot out of the heads, due to their low price-point, but I was actually really impressed with the smooth flow of the port's roof and floor. They really move some air through them. 

 

   Chris Straub designed the hydraulic roller cam for me that is replacing the solid roller in the mill now.  I am de-tuning the engine, transforming it from a strip toy to a low RPM street engine.  Chris stated that with the 505 ci that I have in this block, that his cam will produce 640 lb ft of torque through the Patriots.   Doug

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  Daryl, we've actually chosen a lot of the same features for our builds.  I'm running Strange axles into an Eaton, that's currently 4.11...  but I have new 3.73's sitting here to help lower the cruising rpm's.  And I pulled the Powerglide with its 3600 stall converter and replaced it with a reprogrammed 4L80E.  The previous owner had stripped the A/C for weight savings, so I've replaced it with Classic Auto Air's box.   I swapped the steering box to a Caprice 9C1 12.7:1   It looks like you've got a bit more rubber on the ground though...  I'm running 275 Nitto's.     Doug

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  • 2 months later...

hey Doug i really like this hydraboost swap and want to do it myself. Any chance you give me a little more detail on the swap? Did you put a T in at the power steering line or did you weld a new fitting onto the PS box? re-use your old master? any problems with brake pedal height or any other interference issues? last but not least are you running a line from the hydra to a cooler? 

 

thanks in advance for any help, cant wait to do this. 

 

Brandon

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  • 3 weeks later...

   Sorry Brandon and Timothy,  I didn't catch your additional questions about the swap.

 

   I didn't  Tee into the return line, as I read too many posts about some applications developing problems with steering when the brakes are applied with a Tee in the system.  Likewise Brandon, NO COOLER OR FILTER in the return line from the hydroboost!  Any restriction at all can cause fluid to back up in the line from the hydro and apply your brakes.  I've installed a 6" x 14" cross-flow cooler in the return line from the steering box,between it and the PSC reservoir.

 

  As to your questions about the brake pedal,  height is the same as before...  you can dictate this by the length of actuating rod that you leave to connect to the pedal arm.  The only alteration that is necessary is to attach the actuating rod itself into the top hole on the pedal arm that is normally used for manual brakes, instead of the lower one such as we do with our power brakes.  This provides a straight angle for the actuating rod into the hydro and also increases the leverage applied to the unit.  I swapped in a chrome master cylinder out of an early 'Vett that is the correct bore size.  You want one with an inch to an inch and an eighth in diameter piston bore.   Doug

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    You're quite welcome, Brandon.   If you or Timothy decide to do the swap, let me know and I can loan you the tool to remove the large nut that secures the hydroboost to the bracket.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I'm upgrading to Cts v 4 piston brembo front calipers front and rear with 14" camaro SS from the 5th gen I'm going to be using a mechanical e brake caliper for safety sake but also will be doing the hydro boost setup the V or SS brembo calipers can be attached to the front using a ls1 4th gen swap bracket and stock a body drum hubs there are a few companies that sell the 10/12 bolt rear brembo swap brackets

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