MC-71 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I know I just opened a whole can of worms. I started body mounts while the car is still on the frame. My Monte is finished on the exterior. I know this is not going to be easy. I don't have a problem in getting all the bolts out. One side at a time. My only real concern is if the top of the frame might be rotted. Could I get away with a 1 1/2 ID washer but sitting on top of the frame. Those washers are about 1/8" thick. The other problem is when doing that the bottom rubber is going to mate up to the top rubber a 1/8" shorter. Also I think I will take both doors off and leave the nose on. Input will really HELP! Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 leave the doors on! they will help support the body that 1/8" shouldn't effect much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Sam. Should I pull the nose. I'm afraid the fenders will be into the doors. What do you think? Maybe I can move the doors back to the quarter panels. Then readjust after the new mounts are in. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 I would lift each side in multiple places at the same time, so it's supported the length of the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 So you are saying to leave everything the way it is and carefully lift the body on one side and then the other side. I "Think I Need A Bigger Boat". I can do it. Thanks for the Help Sam. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 TTT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 I am in the process of R&R my body mounts also with body on frame. My plan is to do what Sam said. I plan to support car at 4 places, one side at a time. Radiator support, on the rocker at the door and fender, at the rear of the rocker and overlap where the door and 1/4 panel meet, and at the rear of car. At the two points on the rocker panel will use floor jacks with two foot 2x4s or 4x4s. Haven't decided which ones yet but that should give enough support to R&R bushings. Going to take it slow and careful. John S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 I would error on the side of caution and use 4x4's....less give to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 make sure to loosen the mounts on the opposite side before lifting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 All of my mounting bolts came out. I will re-install them loosely on one side before I lift. Thanks for all the great advice. That's why I enjoy being a member here. John S 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 I found this tip on the Chevelle site. Use a 4x4 under the rocker but run your circular saw right down the top of it. Measure the depth of the pinch well and put that cut out right into it. Just like setting a newer car on a frame machine. My car is a "Salter" and my bolts are not coming out easy. I have drilled a 2" hole a little off center of the body bolt. I'm trashing all the caged nuts and using new square nuts and caping the holes with a hole plug. My 71 is 44 years old. This needs to be done. You can go on the www.teamchevelle.com and search Body Bolt Length on pg one you will find a PDF by a member telling how he did what I mentioned above. Thanks for all the help. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Here you go... http://www.chevelles.com/techref/body_bushings.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Thanks for posting the PDF. I'm sure alot of members will appreciate the info. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 That has some good tips Carl.....good find and well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I think I would use 4x4's underneath the body and not on the body pinch weld. There are several braces that run across the underneath. That is where I blocked mine when I took it off the frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Jim Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I am getting ready to remove my body from my frame. Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated. I will be replacing the body bushings at this time. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Open the PDF on post #12 above this post. Scott I'm not taking my body off. Just lifting it 1 1/2" to 2". I'm going with the pinch weld with the saw cut in the 4x4. "BUTTER" Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte0 Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 I've done this twice now, once on a lift that was pretty easy and once on the ground with jacks. The lift way is way is best, just use the lift pads on the pinch welds, loosen bolts and lift only enough to sneak out all the mounts at once. Watch for the nose moving or flexing as the weight of the nose will flex the front tip of the frame some. Second time was with 2 jacks and 4 stands I did it with 2x10's cut to the right length and jacked on the supports on the floors (front and rear farthest distance I could to spread the load) but didn't have the motor/trans in that time. If the motor is in the floor pans will more then likely flex if you don't watch out. That is why I used 2x10's so I had more surface area touching. This is my experience but ever car is different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Replaced body mounts Sat. Used two 2x4's screwed together with drywall screws 32" long each to lift car. Cut a channel 1" from the edge 3/4" deep and 1/4" wide on each piece. The pinchweld flange fit into the channel, and a cut out was made for the fender bolt as the lumber overlapped the fender. I did not lift by the flange, instead the channel prevented the lumber from slipping. The majority of the lift was by the two floor jacks under the rocker and the jack under the radiator support was used simply as support, not to lift. The bottle jack at the rear bumper was used to lift minimally. Throughout the procedure the door gaps did not change as I was very careful to keep an eye on it. took about 2 hrs. not bad for a Sat morning. John S 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Thanks for all the detailed posts and pictures. This will come in handy for others tackling the replacement of body mounts. I saved the photos and a link to this thread in a folder for future reference. Thanks again. Cheers, Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 The only issue I had with replacing the bushing mounts on my 70 were at the very rear. The cages for the square nuts broke loose. So I had to cut into the rear pan support to get at the nuts. Then I just welded back up my cuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC-71 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share Posted September 28, 2015 Hey John. I see you did what I had posted. How did it go. Was there any problems using that method with the pinchweld. Did the body come up easy or hard. Thanks for posting the pictures. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Body came up very easy Carl. At the rear mount I used a pry bar against the body to break free from the mounts other than that very simple. It seems like the rear of frame has some flex to it. I also replaced radiator support bushings and measured from support to fixed spot on frame. If the support moves sideways it can mess up the fender and hood gaps. Also with the new bushings in body in place it raised body 1/8" probably due to compression of old bushings. John S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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