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ordered new no slip differential, Tips?


CA72

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I am nearly finished with the B&M Master race rebuild (and shift kit) on my TH350 (I just work on it now and then as I have time) so today I ordered a Powertrax no-slip differential from Summit Racing for my 12 bolt rear end.

 

Any of you folks ever done this on an originally non-posi rear end before. I thought I would see if any of you had some tips first. It should be here by the weekend.

 

Thanks.

 

Brad

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Brad,are you just replacing the carrier ? If so its fairly simple, Get your car as high up as you can, Remove back tires and drums , drain differental, remove pan and bearing straps, have some one push in on either axle being done and remove c-clip. Once out pull axle out just enough to clear carrier. Make sure you keep spacers together, they must go back in same way or if replacing they must be matched up for the thickness.Remove ring gear, I beleive the bolts are reverse thread (its been awhile) when reinstalling gear tap on with brass hammer or wood mallet just enough to start bolts and tighten evenly,some people heat the gear for easier install. Now if your going with different gears you'll need to change pinion as well . Not very hard. Let us know.

 

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Thanks for the insight. I believe the Powertrax unit is just "the carrier" so it should follow the process you describe. I guess I'll see when it get's here. These are supposed to be pretty good quality units. I wonder if anyone of this group has used this carrier before?

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Since you are not installing new gears, you should use a dial indicator, or use feeler guages and measure the gear lash and try to get it back to that measurement. Otherwise you will setting the gears back into a different wear area which may not be a good idea.

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Thanks for all the help. I will make use of it as soon as I start. However I have a new problem on the transimission. My dipsick tube was the original which was the o ring type, (which leaked). I purchased a new chrome tube (also the o ring type) and I can't get it to go in with the o ring in place. It keeps pushing the o ring up out of the depression made for it. Now I am just tired of messing with it as it is the last thing from keeping me from finishing the trans job.

 

Anyone know where I can get a new tube (or good used one, I can get a new grommet) that is the later grommet seal type?

 

Thanks

 

Brad

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You have been a member for a while, but I don't remember seeing you here before. I will keep your E address. There are 4 of us in Sac. I have several tubes, but they are up in Georgetown. If I can remember, I will check my other parts in South Sac.

I'm just remembering that I may have had that problem once. Discovered that the chrome tube was not going into the trans hole straight and pushing the O ring off. Also have you tried a smaller O ring and stretch it on? Don't know if that would work.

 

[This message has been edited by George Lines (edited 02-08-2003).]

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Thanks, George.

 

I think I will try the smaller o ring first. I went to Riebes here (NAPA shop)and we could find only one ring that might work. It goes in with the o ring in the groove and seems to be touching the walls of the opening, but I guess I won't know for sure until I put fluid in it. I am kind of anxious to get that done. Then all that is left for me to put it back on the ground and and fire it up is to install the PowerTrax no slip differential and put my headers back on.

 

Actually we have met. I was the one who showed up at the park a couple years ago in in Sacto driving the 66 Mustang. Forgive me, but it is for my son when he turns 16. You don't think I would actually let a teenage boy behind the wheel of a Monte now do you.?

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Let me qualify the above. Nothing wrong with teenage boys. I was once once myself.

 

It should read,

 

"You don't think I am going to let a teenage boy behind the wheel of a Monte I have spent $7500 on, now do you?"

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Yes, I was a crazy teen once and a car wasn't

safe in my hands.

I do remember you and have been wondering how to get in touch with you. There are 4 of us that are talking about doing the Banson, MO trip in August and I was wondering if you might be interested in making the trip with us.

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George:

 

Thanks for the invitation. Unfortunately as I look ahead to my family and work calendar I'm afraid I won't be able to take the time for that. Sounds like you all will have a great trip. I bet your Montes will be turning some heads along the way. You could call yourselves the "Sac Pack."

 

 

Brad

 

[This message has been edited by CA72 (edited 02-10-2003).]

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Well I thought a would post an update on the TH 350, drive shaft, rear end rebuild project. I put her on the ground last night and am driving her today. Wow, What a bandit! She's chirping second gear without really trying; I am taking it easy for a little break-in.

 

I rebuilt the TH350 in my garage with no special tools except 1 home-made spring compressor and a store-bought set of bushing drivers. I used the B&M Master Race rebuild kit from Summit for $129.00. This set included all gaskets, seals, bushings, frictions and steels. Additionally, I purchased a new modulator and the B&M shift kit as well. I kept my original torque converter. I am working on a budget and the inside of the tranny when opened up was really clean. No metal shavings and even the old oil wasn't that bad. So I decided to do a lengthy manual flush of the converter. It takes time but cleans it out pretty well.

 

The drive shaft was cleaned up and new quality universal joints added.

 

The rear end got new axle seals and pinion seals. I installed the new PowerTrax no-slip differential and it was so easy. The only things that have to come out are the center pin and the four spider type gears.

 

The car really performs, shifts well, fast, solid and quiet. If any of you that haven't done these upgrades yet are considering them, go for it. What a difference!

 

The Monte (which my wife has dubbed the other woman, "Montessa Carlotta") hadn't been on the ground for a year and a half. What a joy to be driving her again.

 

Brad

 

 

 

 

[This message has been edited by CA72 (edited 02-12-2003).]

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Glad to hear that everything worked out. There is nothing like after having rebuilt an automatic and having it work. There can be some very anxious moments until you put it in gear and have it move.

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  • 3 months later...

A M E N!!!

 

I still can't belive that TH350c I built in high school shop class about 5 years ago and stored for that long worked smile.gif

 

 

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by George Lines:

Glad to hear that everything worked out. There is nothing like after having rebuilt an automatic and having it work. There can be some very anxious moments until you put it in gear and have it move.</font>

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  • 6 years later...

yes they both give you a posi-traction result. The first is a limited slip which is more street friendly, quieter and smooth. The second is a locker which is considered stronger but is not smooth when turning and will "ratchet" rather than slip making more noise. The first one is a little more complex which ups the price.... grin

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I have a Detroit Truetrac in my Camaro and I love it. No posi clutches to wear out, nice and quiet on the street and living well with plenty of punishment in a heavy car with a big motor. It is in a 9", but if I had to replace my Monte's 12-bolt carrier, I'd go with the Truetrac.

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The truetrack is the posi of choice for the front on a 4x4.

It's the closest thing to a locker, but still lets you steer.

For the serious off roader, it's detroit locker in the rear and truetrack in the front.

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