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Bad short


willie

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6 hours ago, willie said:

These are new harnesses, so i am not 100% sure colors are what they are supposed to be

 

I read this but didn't catch it the first time around.:rolleyes:

OK, so, some colors are changed. Might you know who's harness it is? They would be able to provide wiring diagrams that match.

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Hey Paul, i bought the 2 harnesses from American Autowire.(engine and the front light). When i started to have all these problems i did call them to make sure they were correct with the correct color wires and they told me yes to both counts. I pulled out the originals from the pile and the were the same. So i just took it for granted that it wasn't the harnesses. 

The dash harness was rebuilt from a guy from ebay, and i emailed him back and forth many times to help me with the colors and slots they belong in the fuse box and the bulkhead. 

I will replace the head light switch asap, but i have a question, if in your pic of the head light switch it states the  white wire terminal is for ground, i know i have power going to that terminal, do you think that might be the problem?

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I would say the white wire is seeing feedback voltage from the interior light circuit.

I've found it's better to test old (pre-electronics) auto circuits with a test light, not a volt meter.

This one is awesome, a second alligator clip screws onto the pointed end. Used to be a Sears item. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KAL-Equip-Mini-Coil-Cord-Circuit-Tester-KM2566/352566474124?epid=1629540374&hash=item521699758c:g:pisAAOSwoZJcFXT8:sc:USPSPriority!11428!US!-1

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Hey Paul, i will change the head light switch this weekend, just to see what happens.

I have a Matco unit looks to be the same. Just a light no battery. But the interior lights work fine. I guess i should check the dome light, and the glove box light wires.

Thanks i will try that

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Paul, i left the batt hooked up, we will see what happens. I also checked the dome light it is not connected on either side, and has no bulb in it. The glove box works fine. So i am hoping that all of this is just a headlight switch.

But why is the Amp gauge upside down?

IMG_1229.JPG.ff6ae3af5c60064fff36796f1357d45a.JPG

I didn't do anything with the gauge when i restored the dash, cleaned and replaced it. 

What do you think?

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Willie is working hard to have this Monte ready for the 2020 Chevrolet Nationals and our Eastern Meet and of course the 50th Anniversary celebration of Monte Carlo.

rob

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Left the batt hooked up since Thurs. Went in this morning to change the headlight switch and the batt is dead as a doornail...

So i put the headlight switch and now charging the batt. Have to wait till batt charges enough to check to see if any fusses blew.

Gremlins suck!!

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On 7/25/2019 at 10:58 PM, Rob Peters said:

Willie is working hard to have this Monte ready for the 2020 Chevrolet Nationals and our Eastern Meet and of course the 50th Anniversary celebration of Monte Carlo.

rob

I hope we won't have to push it! :rolleyes:

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LOL Paul . However if i cant get it started by then, i will wench it on the trailer and have it there on a different set  of 4 tires (the trailers) LOL

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Ok here is what i have now. After changing the horn relay, high beam switch, and the head light switch. And still have the draw, i am calling it a draw as Paul stated because none of the fuses blew. So its not a short just a draw. However it is a good draw because the batt went dead in 1-1/2 days. I charged it all day yesterday so i know have juice. I checked everything, and everything seems to work fine. I also took out every fuse 1 at a time to see what circut it might be, and still have the draw. None blew or went bad. UUUGGGGGGHHH!!!!    Where do i go from here?

Also what fuse is for the circut board?

Thanks

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Circuit board?

The main feed for the fuse block is supposed to be a red 12 gauge wire that's fed by a 16 gauge black wire from the horn relay power buss. When it changes in the harness, there's a fuseable link.

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Willie, I know you said you removed all the fuses one by one. Did you do that with a test light between the positive battery cable and the terminal on the battery? If the light went out then that's obviously the circuit with the draw. If not you eliminated those circuits. If that's the case. What about the alternator? Shorted inside? Just a thought. 

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Hey Everyone I haven't been in here for a while, i was sick, just starting to feel better.

Paul, ok so there is no fuse for the circuit board but a fuseable like, ahh that's why i cant stop the power to the alt gauge.

Tom, yes but on the Neg side, and no i didn't on the Alt because i had it rebuilt. However i cant leave this stone unturned . i will disconnect the plug and the hot lead, and then recheck for draw.

Rob , no its not internal, its on the rad support. As we spoke its new,but on your advise i ordered another new one and got it last week but couldn't get my head of the pillar. I will also change this out to see and recheck.

I will do all this in the next couple of days and get back to everyone.

Thank you all for the help

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Ok Everyone , As Rob stated to change out the brand new reg, well it looks like that did the job. I changed it out this morning and checked for draw and had none. That was sweet!!! I didn't check everything in the car again because i was feeling light headed. Figured if i was going to catch a beaten from the boss, it would be better laying down on the couch than on the greenhouse floor. lol

 I will double check everything in the car tomorrow just to make sure everything works right.

Thank You!!! to all of you guys

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4 hours ago, willie said:

Ok Everyone , As Rob stated to change out the brand new reg, well it looks like that did the job. I changed it out this morning and checked for draw and had none. That was sweet!!!

Thank You!!! to all of you guys

Willie,

That is great news!!!  You have had to spend way too much time on this issue.  The thing that made this more complicated for you and those of us trying to help was the fact that the wiring diagrams wire colors did not match the actual wire colors on the car.  Now, you need to move on to other projects on the car to have it ready for the Chevrolet Nationals in Carlisle next June for the 50th Anniversary of Monte Carlo.  (sorry to hijack your post to advertise for next year's Eastern Meet)

rob

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys, just want to thank you for all your help!!!

I still have some issues, as you guys know after changing all the electric parts to get to this point i am at now. I noticed there was a burn in the circuit board. I ordered one up and installed it. There are 2 problems now, 1) there is still a draw but when i disconnect the clock it goes out, (so i am guessing not a big deal) Batt has been on for two days and still fully charged. 2) the Amp gauge is pointing straight down rather than up.

My questions are, does the clock constantly draw from the batt?

And what is making the amp gauge point down?

Thanks Again for all the help

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Willie, yes, the clock always draws, otherwise it would stop.  It is not a large draw though.  Can't answer your question on the amp gage though.  I take it you can't start it to see how it reacts properly.  If a new vintage regulator could be bad so could an amp gauge.

rob

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Hey Willie. Glad the main issue is gone. Looks great! Google the amp gauge issue. The Chevelle guys have some answers. The gauge in my 71 402 is doing the same thing.

Although when running, I can see the amp gauge moving. Just, like yours, is pointing down. 

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The clock has an electric winding relay. It's click can be heard every few minutes.

When the winding spring is undone, the relay kicks in to rewind it. It's really quick. It's not a continuous power draw.

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