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BB Headers


DragCat

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10 hours ago, Mike said:

I dont think i saw an answer to this, Can these headers be installed with a big block 454 in the vehicle? 

Mike, from the ARH website I believe yes, i'd give them a call to verify specifics. They advertise specific to 1970/72 454 Montes on the site. 

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I went to pickup my headers today!

They weren't ready!

But I got a nice T-shirt!

Nick says you guys shouldn't worry, they install with the engine in place like any other header.

I do know you'll need to have the nose of the car pretty high up or do it on a lift.

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14 hours ago, Paul Bell said:

I went to pickup my headers today!

They weren't ready!

But I got a nice T-shirt!

Nick says you guys shouldn't worry, they install with the engine in place like any other header.

I do know you'll need to have the nose of the car pretty high up or do it on a lift.

Thats a shame, they probably stopped working on your set to expedite Joe's order 🤣 They did include some nice decals for the tool box with my order. I can't imagine trying to install headers without the car being jacked up. 

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22 minutes ago, DragCat said:

Thats a shame, they probably stopped working on your set to expedite Joe's order 🤣

No, it's the end of the year and a few people are out using up vacation time.

It's kinda my fault, I was told the 27th and I went there without calling first. Very nice guy that Nick, we've met a few times before.

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There's some roughness where the bender's collar grabbed the tubing. I'll knock it down with some Scotch Bright.

While these headers are exactly as I expected them, they can use a little buffing up.

I was originally told the collector was ball and socket design and they would include a coupling, they are not, they are slip-fit, which I kinda preferred.

They asked what port shape and size my heads had so for now, I'll assume they match.

The collectors have the merge spike in them.

As discussed, they do not include gaskets. They do include a pair of clamps for the collectors and header to head bolts-which I'll not use because I stud my headers.

After I do some mock-up, I'll return to ARH to have o2 bungs welded in.

ARH1.jpg

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Do you have a pic of the coupling & clamps they sent you Paul? Wonder if it's different because you opted for a different size.

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Joe, no couplings. Just what's here:

Warranty card;

2 stickers;

12 pt bolts

2 clamps-that I now notice are for ball couplings AND they're 3" so they're useless to me. I'll be getting my own flat band clamps.

ARH6.jpg

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10 minutes ago, jft69z said:

That's sort of crappy, especially for that kind of money..."What a Concept", lol

Perhaps.

But they were still short handed and as I already went there to pick them up and left empty handed (my fault), they were rushing to get my order done. They called at 10am to say they were ready.

It's about the headers to me, even if the clamps were correct, header companies furnish the narrow band clamps which I wouldn't use anyway.

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ARH said they only guarantee the fit on stock heads only.

Tried to see from pictures submitted if my aluminum heads that have 3/8 inch raised exhaust ports would pose a problem.  Pics on page 2 that show them in the car are 1 7/8" and I would get 2" but looks like only areas to be concerned with are rear A arm area on p side for first and second tube and tube steering shaft on drivers side.

Anyone have fitment info for raised exhaust port and 2" primaries?

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We have a member here with these headers, 2 inch primaries I believe, and he has 3/8" raised exhaust ports. I don't know what control arms he has.

I also have raised ports but I have aftermarket arms. And I won't be installing the headers or even the engine until springtime.

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Good news/bad news....as usual with this entire job. Headers arrived this morning, box is beat up a little (my same UPS friend that beat up my gas tanks apparently), but no shipping damage. However, even though it was clearly stated on every piece of paper, invoice, shipping label, etc  (highlighted in yellow)....no O2 sensor bung welded on the collector of the header. Just called, spoke to Mike, was real quick to apologize and draw up an RMA number. I told him how about I test fit them first and take it from there. I have SS O2 bungs in stock here & can TIG weld one on, but did't want to void any warranty. He said no problem there, they're fine with that if I want to do it. It may certainly lessen the chance of shipping damage.

2 steps forward, one step back as usual with this car...

 

Edit: Test fit them. For those who wondered, the driver side will go in from the bottom, passenger side went in from the top. No big deal, oil filter was still in place. Did notice that the # 3 tube just about hits the engine block where there is a raised boss ahead of the oil filter. Also, the # 7 tube is pretty close to the brake distribution valve. I think they could have routed it a little different, especially since that tube is considerably shorter than all the rest. 

They do tuck up real nice though for round clearance. Driver side is a little close to the shift linkage on the trans too, but that may be a result of the different transmission. Nothing that can't be worked around.  Not sure what I'll do from here, but maybe a good thing the O2 sensor wasn't installed. There may be better locations than originally considered due to the proximity of the collector to the trans linkage..

Mark, I used your picture to show where I think the # 7 tube may have been better routed to clear the brake valve.

Oh, also put the stock starter up there. It's a little close, but fits. The #2 tube is sort of close to the battery terminal, maybe an inch & about 1/2"  from the same tube to the body of the starter. I'll still probably get the mini-starter that ARH recommended.

driver header.jpg

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Nice update, I was scared when it started good / bad news. Ive read a bunch of posts (when I was doing my research) that suggest the mini starter so I would definitely go that route. 

I think there also have been multiple posts when headers are close and or touching the proportioning valve, something to keep an eye on for sure with it close. I think someone or a few made a bracket to move it further away.

I planned on setting the driver side when lowering the crate in, but from your post seems like easy peezy with the car lifted on the driver side. 

I'll keep the thread updated if I have any trans linkage issues when I get that far. 

Did you get a free t-shirt or only Paul ? I didn't 🤣

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7 minutes ago, DragCat said:

Did you get a free t-shirt or only Paul ? I didn't 🤣

I got one because I went to pick up my headers without confirming they were ready and they felt bad I took the trip out there.

I'll be going back to have my o2 bungs welded in after I confirm where I want them.

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Yep Paul, fully aware about o2 sensor placement, but thanks for the reminder just in case. I had initially planned on the driver side, inboard for the bung location, but after fitting them it looks like driver side/outboard may work out better. Those things tuck in pretty good near the transmission. It would work, but why cram everything in that spot, especially with the shifter linkage cable, other sensors on the trans, etc.

I got nothing except the decals shown above.

As far as the brake valve, I already dinged the tube a bit & am going to make a sheet metal plate as a heat deflector. Hopefully that will help, if not then I'll relocate it.

As far as ease of installation, keep in mind everything here is open and the AC box isn't installed. That being said, I don't think it will matter as I sort of looked at that scenario when putting them in.

Also ordered the Powermaster XS 9500 starter from Summit, should be here tomorrow.

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Yea Paul, i know I just get a chuckle out of it. 

One of the great things about the forums is you get everyones experience, and a lot of different results fixes. So I've been going into my project eyes wide open so to speak with a mindset of things I might encounter.

I think it was Paul that said the headers needed to go in before the starter was installed (sorry if I mis-quoted), my crate shipped without the starter installed so thats a non issue for me. I know when I took the stock exhaust manifolds off the 454 the pass side came out through the top no issues, had to have the car lifted to pull the drivers side out the bottom. 

If i'm close on the proportioning valve i'll probably monitor it closely then decide either to move or make a deflector. 

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New starter came in today, huge size difference. I still think a stock one will work, but it's close to the tubes and may cause heat issues in some cases. Maybe a heat shield would fit, but I didn't try. Below are pics of the starters, and how far the ARH headers tuck up.

The last 2 are of the Hooker Super Comps for comparison. First is before I moved the one passenger side tube to raise it a bit. Still, they hang a LOT lower than the ARH set. Using the engine oil pan as a reference, the Hookers are an anchor in comparison, they hang so low.

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ARH headers:

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Hooker Super Comps (with relocated tube on pass.side):

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just read this post.  I've got the ZZ454 and when I installed it I went with the Patriot 8012-1 ceramic coated headers back in 2004.  They have pitting now mainly on the passenger side.  A lot of that came with the move from CA to PA back in 2005 and placing the car in one of those air tight storage units for a couple of months (since I moved the car on an open trailer late January).  Anyways they are out right now and thinking about going with the Doug's 306 or 313 (the Patriots are mid length).  I had to grind away at the bottom of the flange on every exhaust port of the Patriot due to the flange hitting the head bolts.  That wasn't a big deal as the fenders were off and had easy access to the engine.  Looking for opinions on best fit, best long term non-pitting lasting header.  Fenders are on now and car just painted with all body lines locked in.  Doug's or ARH?  Not intending to race, mainly drive it on the street.

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A quick search showed the Doug's 313 wouldn't fit with the ZZ454 heads, according to an answer on Summit to someone's question. As far as pitting, the ARH headers are stainless, but no experience as far as long term use. They certainly tuck up real nice though, as shown in the pictures. Pricy though.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d313/

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