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DragCat

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Just an update and thanks for all the suggestions/info so far. As i mentioned, I didn't have a 13/16 spark plug socket, but I have at least two 5/8's rolling around in the drawer lol. 

My buddy (when I returned his engine hoist) lent me his 13/16 spark plug socket, but its not a socket that goes on a ratchet, he uses a 3/4 box wrench on it. When I got home the socket went on the spark plug easy, but not with the box wrench on it. But I was able to tighten/loosen with a 3/4 open end wrench so it looks like thats my fix. I'll have to look at the big box store ones Joe mentioned for actual size or maybe go with (posted link below) something like this from summit as long as I verify I can wrench it and its length.

I'm sticking with the crate supplied spark plugs for now just for the simple reason thats what they built it with or at least shipped it to me with.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lag-529

 

 

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Just an update to let you know how tight the clearance is on cylinder #4 spark plug. I bought the Lowes Kobalt 13/16 spark plug socket. Measured the same length 2 1/2" as my buddies old champion socket except it took a 7/8 wrench to turn. DID NOT FIT. I was lucky enough to find the exact model # 13/16 champion spark plug socket (luckily my buddies was still in good enough condition to read the lettering and numbers) on Ebay so I ordered it. The HD socket was a 1/4" to long and took a 22mm wrench. 

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The old 'Armstrong' socket I have is also 2 1/2" long, but the hex end is 3/4" by comparison. Who could have guessed this would have been a problem...

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10 hours ago, jft69z said:

The old 'Armstrong' socket I have is also 2 1/2" long, but the hex end is 3/4" by comparison. Who could have guessed this would have been a problem...

Yea who wooda figured it was that tight. I think i'll dry run the drivers side today just to check the other side. Right now i'm considering myself lucky 1, that my buddy had one that fits, 2 that I was able to find the same vintage socket for sale. 

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Just for anyone following along, I believe Joe had an issue with the steering column lockout arm but he's using an "updated trans. I have the TH400 on the new GM Crate motor and the arm wouldn't clear the header either. Its not s show stopper, might fab something in the future after i'm out running around. 

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  • 1 month later...

And for those following along with the spark plug socket saga... On a whim at wallymart I went to the tool section and bought a 3 piece spark plug socket set for 5 dollars, the 13/16 is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the vintage socket I bought off eBay that was the same as my buddies. go figure lol. And feeling lucky I had ANOTHER summit order so I rolled the dice and ordered # ptm-ppsp for $7, my buddy calls it a lawn mower spark plug socket (13/16 one end 5/8 the other). I think my clearance issues are over lol. Sorry Paul, I didn't check the # 8. 

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20 minutes ago, Paul Bell said:

:doh:

Ok Paul, you made me feel guilty now lol. I just checked and I believe the "lawn mower" tool will work on # 8. But I can't even get my hands between the tubes to loosen it by hand from the top. I should get the car up in the air next week, maybe this weekend and i'll check access from below. 

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It seems everyone is pretty happy with their ARH choice. I guess this will be the header that I go with. I was wondering if any of you run a kickout oil pan and if so how is the clearance around the oil filter. Thanks

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On 5/26/2020 at 2:05 PM, TrailBoss said:

It seems everyone is pretty happy with their ARH choice. I guess this will be the header that I go with. I was wondering if any of you run a kickout oil pan and if so how is the clearance around the oil filter. Thanks

Hey Dave, I was hoping someone would respond since I don't know what a kickoff pan is. I have a Moroso 20411 with no clearance issues 

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On 5/22/2020 at 7:24 PM, Paul Bell said:

:doh:

Hey Paul, just an update, even with the starter installed I have better clearance access to #8 from under the car (lifted) so thats going to be my method. 

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I think we've discussed heat issues with the brake valve here earlier. Today I tried to address it to some degree, ..hopefully. First, I noticed the original cast distribution valve is pretty old so I'm replacing it with a new, brass one. Added benefit is the replacements are a bit thinner. I also made a small heat shield out of some aluminum and some 'thermaflect' tape. Supposed to be reflective at 1100 deg F, & 2000deg intermittent. Taped both sides, added a washer for a bit of air gap between the shield and valve and test fitted it. Looks like it'll fit fine with no clearance issues. It'll be a pain to get to the fittings, but I'll just have to make sure they're tight before installing the headers for good.

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Just an overview on spark plugs for me, remember i'm using 13/16 plugs. #8 works for me from underneath, even with the starter installed. #5 even with the shorter wallymart socket with the rubber grommet out is super snug on removal at the last few turns. I liked the "lawn mower socket" because once I started the thread it was easy to turn till I needed to tighten with a socket. 

On Daves oil filter question, while there is no clearance issue installed I wanted to fill the filter up when I was priming the engine. But I could only get it out past the headers sideways so was in no mood to spill oil all over myself and more lol.

I like Joe's Thermaflect tape idea, I'll order some myself on the next summit order. I'm sure I'll need something else next week lol. 

Oh, and this thing is LOUD with open headers in my garage. 

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This is what I got Mark, but there are a million versions and prices out there. I used it on the bottom of the A/C box too, to maybe reflect some of the heat from the headers too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFN3DU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

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Thanks Joe, they have the same at summit. My buddy has amazon prime so if I don't "need" enough stuff to get the free shipping I can get him to order it. I like the idea of bottom of the a/c box too. 

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  • 8 months later...

WOW! Reading thru all of these has been very entertaining and enlightening. What a great forum on headers. I'm starting to think maybe just stay with stock exhaust. Nah, I've had spark plug issues before with certain crappy headers even with small blocks. It sounds like ARH is the way to go. With the floor shifter, will I need to modify linkage? I thought I read that Summit has parts needed. 

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2 hours ago, Skifoggy said:

 With the floor shifter, will I need to modify linkage? I thought I read that Summit has parts needed. 

Those Summit parts won't fit. I have a different transmission, so  I initially bought that part from Summit, hoping to make something work out of it, but no luck.

The factory back drive linkage should work with the ARH headers and stock trans. I saw no clearance issues, header related when I was down there trying to make my stuff work. Someone else recently mentioned they had no problems, and they had a stock trans too. Mark may have issues though still, he'll pop in soon I'm sure.

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I too thought someone else didn't have issues with the linkage. I didn't reply initially since i'm not running a stock engine, and my headers were built for my situation. (insert advertisement/commercial) As i'm sure in your reading through the thread you see the headers are built when you order them, they are not just sitting on a shelf.

But yes my linkage didn't fit, and no I haven't gone back to address it yet. But thanks to Joe for bringing it up and nicely backhandedly calling me a slacker 🤣

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57 minutes ago, DragCat said:

But yes my linkage didn't fit, and no I haven't gone back to address it yet. But thanks to Joe for bringing it up and nicely backhandedly calling me a slacker 🤣

Absolutely no intention of that at all, smart*ss, lol. At least you're able to drive yours, wish I could right now. I thought Dan (maybe?) replied somewhere that he had no issue, that's when I called you a month or two ago about it. I'm under there now with the brake conversion and don't really see any interference that would occur with the cross bar and vertical rod to the column. 

EDIT: It was Dan:  

 

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Laughing, yea I know but couldn't help myself taking a shot at ya. Good talking to ya too.

Ok I will admit I MAY have had something backwards on the re-install which led to my issue. But the linkage is still in the box labeled "to be done" on the shelf. I might get to it this summer 😮

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34 minutes ago, Dtret said:

I smell a fight coming. Calm down you two. See this is why I don’t like headers. 🤬

No fights at all, lol. We just got off the phone after talking & laughing for nearly an hour. It's all good 😁, damn headers...

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1 minute ago, jft69z said:

No fights at all, lol. We just got off the phone after talking & laughing for nearly an hour. It's all good 😁

I assume so. was just kidding but I still don’t like headers. 

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  • 6 months later...

Hello guys. Anyone have any experience with Dougs d313 headers?     My 70 454 th400. Passenger side header hits the lower rear a-arm frame bracket.  At first I was super happy and impressed with these headers!   NIce finish, thick flange, and went in fairly easy. Than I lifted the car to put in trans mount bolts grabbed tail shaft to push to passenger side and realized header making contact with hanger.   Dougs days install tall engine mounts.  But that makes it worse , can’t push motor back already to close to firewall.   I have one other option that might work but would rather not.   Or I have $600 in headers I can’t use. 

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