72 ground problem

[72Custom]

Hi I have a 72 Monte Carlo custom I put the gas tank in last fall and was getting ready to start it and it just clicks,and then after a while no power, so I noticed the fender ground was missing so I added that, now the gauge cluster lights up again but there seems to be no ground to the starter as it won’t crank? We’re is the ground located for that. I also cleaned the ground from the battery to the alternator bracket so that isn’t the problem. 

[MC1of80]

Silly question, is the battery fully charged? Did you check it or have it checked. At the moment, it sounds like a dead/weak battery.

Also check the connections at the starter. Make sure they are tight.

The starter grounds through the body of the starter withe the bolts to the block (engine). The engine should have a ground from the block to the firewall and or frame. 

[72Custom]

Battery is defiantly fully charged and good. Had it checked. Where is the ground on the block? I’ll check the starter connections next couldnt find the block ground.

[Rob Peters]

The Negative battery cable should connect to the Alternator bracket plate.  That plate connects to the block and the starter get's it's ground/return when it bolts to the block.  The starter itself get's the positive side directly to the starter solenoid connection.  When the starter solenoid is energized by turning the key on it closes the connection of the positive battery which gives the starter the power to spin.  Basically there are two positive connections on the starter solenoid.  One which is from the battery which is the the thick "Current Providing" positive power and a thinner power wire from the ignition which provides the solenoid the power to energize.  That said, it is possible there is a bad connection.  If possible to be able to be under the car with a volt meter you could check the voltage at both of those positive connections on the starter.  The heavy cable should always have the 12 VDC present and the smaller one would only have 12 VDC when the key is turned to the start position.

I hope this makes sense.  

rob

[MC1of80]

Since the battery is fully charged. You state that the starter clicks. Which means power and ignition power is present. I say the starter took a poop. How old is it? Is it stored in a damp area? The car that is. The internals of the starter may have corroded/rusted. 

[72Custom]

18 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:

Since the battery is fully charged. You state that the starter clicks. Which means power and ignition power is present. I say the starter took a poop. How old is it? Is it stored in a damp area? The car that is. The internals of the starter may have corroded/rusted. 

I agree that could be the problem ,but it makes the click like it does not have enough power, so I at first thought it was the battery and got that checked out and it works good. Another thing is after that clicking like it doesn’t have enough power the All lights go off.

[MC1of80]

Do you have another battery? Try another battery. I have had a few batteries that checked out fine but did the same thing you are describing. Internal short in the battery. Was the battery just checked for 12 v and load tested? 

Also, check where the small positive wire is connected. The 70 n 71 have the little block on the radiator support by the battery. I believe the 72 is at the horn relay on the firewall behind the brake booster area. 

Still think it's the battery though. 

[Rancid87]

I'm going to agree with Thomas in that the starter could be corroded inside. I'd pull the starter off, clamp it in a vise, put 12 volts to it and short the solenoid to see if it turns over.

[cbolt]

The old trick of smacking the starter with a tire iron and trying again may be worth a try. I have had some success with starters that just click and then wont work but smacking it to disengage the starter gear from the flexplate teeth. Worth a shot as it takes about 30 seconds.

[MrLPeezy]

I noticed I had a similar problem as well. At first I thought it was the battery, battery checked out. Then we thought it was the wires so I bought new ones... same things, only clicks. Charged the battery, almost turned over. Bought a new battery, intermittently turned over, then nothing. Then we changed the starter and it turned over! Eureka! Until a week later it didn’t turn over or even click... then Dad says, try starting it in neutral...

in the end... it was the neutral safety switch and a weak battery... But I learned a lot!

[Paul Bell]

Zeb, the copper coil windings in the starter motor can have their enamel coating break down over many years and heat/cold cycles. As the engine runs and heats up, the starter also gets hot. This causes the coil windings to expand.

This is why a "bad" starter is fine when the engine is cold but it's bad when you try to re-start it when hot.

[1970mcss]

I have had or been having the same problem. The prior owner put a aftermarket starter in so I thought it was good. A forum member suggested I replace it with an acdelco and I did. I thought my problem was gone but the other day the car wouldn't start when hot. It's a big block, another forum member suggested a heat shield so that is what I'm trying now. I would guess starter on your car....good luck.