load leveler valve

[Grant MacPherson]

I have just replaced rear springs, air shocks, rebuilt compressor, replaced diaphram and cleaned the control valve. If I uhook the control valve and move it up and down it seems to work properly but when it is hocked up it is in the lower position and drains off air, not enough adjustment to stop it. Is it possible to get the leveler out of adjustment? ride height now is 25" to wheel opening.

thanks

Grant

[joseph kehrer]

hello grant, i put in 2" taller springs and made the arm longer with a threaded rod and tie rod ends. you should get the adjustment you need.   joseph

[Grant MacPherson]

thanks Joseph, was hoping not to cut the original linkage but probably the easiest solutions.

thanks

Grant

[MCfan]

Grant,

It is difficult for me to imagine the changes to your linkage geometry by the replacement of your rear springs but it sounds like the distance between the attachment on the control arm and the normal position of the valve actuator arm has increased some. If so, the valve would probably be in an air release mode until the ride height is lower.

I'm sure you are aware that there is some adjustment in the actuator arm by loosening the nut at the slotted opening in the arm and repositioning it lower or higher.  If you've already done that and still need more adjustment, I wonder if you could remove the actuator arm and flip it over so the crook faces down instead of up?  It has been too many years since I disassembled and refurbished my valve but I seem to remember that arm is a flat stamped piece.  If you can turn it over and switch the pivot ball stud to the opposite side, it would give you a lot more distance to the other attachment point on the control arm but you should still have some adjustment with the slot in the arm.

Another thing I would check is whether you can reposition the pivot ball stud that is mounted to the control arm.  Or maybe a combination of that and flipping the arm over.  Neither suggestion may be feasible but it shouldn't be too difficult to solve a mechanical linkage problem like that.  Good luck.

 

[Grant MacPherson]

thanks for the input and pictures, I will have to check the arm direction, maybe I put it on backwards, it won't be the first time i have put something together wrong. Does anyone have a breakdown of the control valve? I took mine apart and cleaned it but not sure if someone was into it before me so a breakdown would be nice to confirm.

Grant    

[overdrive]

The needed length of the ball swivel linkage is determined by the coil springs. 

With the replacement springs available today, the problem you have is common. I had the same issue, and I know of 2 others that did. I chose to buy new ball swivels and make a longer linkage, instead of cutting up my original. I've also made them for others. 

Dan

[1970mcss]

I may have the same problem, Dan what do you charge for a new rod? I may me interested, thanks, Paul 

[MC1of80]

I have gotten a complete fabricated set up from Dan as well as another set of air compressor brackets and I will tell you his craftsmanship is second to none!!!! Highly recommend!!! 

[Grant MacPherson]

thanks for the info, not installed yet but lots of adjustment so hopefully fix the problem.

Grant  

[Rob Peters]

Dang, Dan does some amazing work.  Dan, thanks for your contributions to the club and to this hobby.

rob

[overdrive]

Thanks for the kind words, guys.

Paul, I don't think I have any ball swivels at the moment, but I can get some ordered. The linkages are made to the length you specify for $35, shipping included.

Dan

[1970mcss]

I'm not sure how I would determine the proper length,  can you give me a clue 

[overdrive]

Put the car on a drive-on type lift, or raise all 4 corners some other way. I used car dollies under each tire. That doesn't get the car very high, but it worked ok for me. You could put 4x4s on top of the dollies, if you need more height. It would make it easier to work on, but you need all 4 corners raised the same amount. 

Air the tank up. With the factory linkage off and out of the way, adjust the actuating arm on the control valve to the mid point position. The nut on the side of the actuating arm is in a slotted hole. That is where the adjustment is made. 

If your control valve is good, you can push the actuating arm up and that will put pressure in the shock absorbers. The Monroe shocks I have require a minimum of 25 lbs. I just aired mine up until the rear bumper raised about an inch or so, and then released the actuating arm. You can play around with different amounts of pressure in the shocks and see what you like, I don't like the bumper up high. The shocks work best for my taste with minimal pressure. 

Once you're satisfied with the air pressure in your shocks, just measure how long the linkage needs to be. You can use your original and see how short it is, or try to measure center to center on the holes for the linkage.

You may want to drive the car after you get the shocks aired up to check for ride quality. It doesn't take alot of air pressure to make for a rough ride. 

Dan