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Fuse block Wiring Issue


Katman

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Got a bit of an issue wiring up the courtesy lights and the trunk release.  Service manual says both of them go to "bat" - which I'd agree is where they should go.  Should have power even when car is not running.  But the connectors are not compatible.  One has the lip on the left side and the other on the right side.  The courtesy harness has a connector to bridge another power wire (you can kind of see that extra blue connector at the bottom of the picture).  I'd have to shave off the lip on the connector on the right in order to allow it to plug in.  See picture below.

IMG_1057.JPG

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It looks like the wrong fuse block tap plug is on those wires.

The wire harness makers will NOT sell any of the three different keyed plugs unless it's in a harness of some sort.

BATT means all the time power. It's the top of the three sockets in the center of the fuse block.

Any 1/4" crimp terminal will work.

terminals.JPG

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Thanks Paul but I still need to put two different wires on the BATT terminal of the fuse block.  I can't do that if all I do is change the ends to be both crimp terminals.  Maybe I'm missing something with your explanation.

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Mark, 

 

I don't doubt that you would have to modify either of those connectors to plug them into the BAT port on your fuse panel, but that is clearly not the solution if you have multiple wires to connect to a single port.  You can either cut of those original connectors and crimp a single female spade connector (probably the blue or yellow one depending on the wire size(s) you need to join at that connector) or you can try to emulate a factory installation.

I have attached two photos of the fuse block on a bone stock '70 SS.  You can see that the blue connector in the BAT position has three wires attached to it.  As I recall, each of the three wires was short and terminated in another connector that looks like it would mate with the connectors on your new harness.  Look at the connector in the upper right of the second photo.  I don't know if it is possible to order that multi-wire splitter or if you need to make one up from parts, but I wouldn't hesitate to emulate the original factory installation, especially if it leaves your new harness intact.

There is one other possible solution that may be the best of all.  There is a naked 1/4" spade connector sold at auto supply stores that has one female end and two male ends.  I call it a "piggyback" connector and have used them several times successfully.  You simply plug one onto the male BAT spade and plug the two female plugs on your harness onto the two male spades.  You probably will not have to modify the harness connectors since the piggyback connector has no plastic housing around it.

 

IMG_1371.JPG

IMG_1372.JPG

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Paul and MCFan,  thanks for your help!  I figured that is what Paul was suggesting but just wanted to confirm.  I will try to not have to cut off any of the connectors and see what is available at the local Auto Zone.  McFan thanks for posting the pictures.

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Mark, make up a one to two pigtail like this and you won't need to cut off the blue & white plugs that came on your harnesses. Make it long so you can poke it up away from hanging down in front of the fuse box. 14 gauge wire is more than enough and two will fit together in a yellow (10 gauge) crimp.

ONE TO TWO.jpg

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M&H sent me a new connector to replace the clear connector that had the correct design to match the courtesy light harness.  Popped the clear one off and stuck the new on.  Problem solved.  Next issue - what is the part number of the bulb that goes in this courtesy light harness from painless (I called them - they are closed today).  It looks to be an 1156 style bulb, but shorter in height.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30708

 

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10 hours ago, Katman said:

Next issue - what is the part number of the bulb that goes in this courtesy light harness from painless (I called them - they are closed today).  It looks to be an 1156 style bulb, but shorter in height.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30708

 

Original was a # 631 bulb (6 candlepower), and the AAW harness I have lists the same number bulb (appears to be the same as Painless' harness/sockets). That bulb was a little dim for my tastes in my Camaro (black interior though), so I bumped it up to a 1003 (15 candlepower) I think. I can check when I get home from work in the morning.

 

Edit: I looked in their actual wiring harness instructions and it says a " 63 or 67 series bulb" which is even less candlepower, but has the same G6 3/4 bulb specs.

#63 is 3CP at 7 volts rating, & #67 is 4CP at 13.5 volts.

Pages 75 & 133 reference the bulb numbers"

https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/20130.pdf

I printed the above manual out, even though I installed an AAW complete harness. Painless has a lot of good info in that manual.

 

Pg 25 of this manual lists the bulb specs:

https://www.csobeech.com/files/GE-BulbCatalog.pdf

 

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