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dcmoore2

brake drums hot

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After driving a few miles, under normal conditions, i can get out and feel the rear drums and they are very hot to the touch. They were both doing it at first so i re-adjusted the shoes, thinking that i had adjusted too tight. Now the drivers side is the only one that gets really hot. I recently replaced the master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders and all the brake lines. I have loosened the parking brake cable also - thinking that may be the culprit but it was not. I have read that the master cylinder could have been a little different than what was on it and the rod could be too long - making the brakes drag? I also have read that the proportioning valve could also be plugged or is getting too hot from the header tube being about 1/2 inch away...i am going to try and adjust the brake pedal rod to make sure clearance is there. Then i'll tackle the proportioning valve with a heat shield or wrapping the header or moving it altogether. Anyone have this same issue?

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Drum brakes have an adjuster that operates when you hit the brakes while backing up. They're left/right specific. If you mixed them up, every time you step on the brakes, they'll adjust tighter.

When I used to do drum brakes, I pulled both drums but did one side completely before disassembling the other.

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Paul I do the same thing, one side at a time.  Not only do you not mix up the parts but it is also a reference to be able to look at one side  to compare the spring placement when you don't do drum brakes very often...  

rob

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The drums will get somewhat warm with normal use. Make sure they are adjusted properly, they don't need a lot of drag as some think. Make sure the wheel cylinders are working properly. The adjusters should be marked R&L under the caps that come off. Make sure you dont have a big difference in drum size. I believe 30 thousandths is the max variation side to side. Short shoe to the front always. Let us know how you make out.

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i adjusted almost all the way in this time. I now have cool drums but the brakes really need a lot of pressure to stop. I will now adjust out a little at a time until i feel that they are working properly, but with no heat from drag. i still think it could be the proportioning valve being gunked up or rusty inside.

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a good bleeding of the lines might be in order. I had an old car that would slowly apply the brakes as I drove higher in elevation. I actually had to stop and let some pressure out 1/2 way to my destination. No problem on the way down. A good pressure bleed with fresh fluid fixed it.

 

 

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