dcmoore2 Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 After driving a few miles, under normal conditions, i can get out and feel the rear drums and they are very hot to the touch. They were both doing it at first so i re-adjusted the shoes, thinking that i had adjusted too tight. Now the drivers side is the only one that gets really hot. I recently replaced the master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders and all the brake lines. I have loosened the parking brake cable also - thinking that may be the culprit but it was not. I have read that the master cylinder could have been a little different than what was on it and the rod could be too long - making the brakes drag? I also have read that the proportioning valve could also be plugged or is getting too hot from the header tube being about 1/2 inch away...i am going to try and adjust the brake pedal rod to make sure clearance is there. Then i'll tackle the proportioning valve with a heat shield or wrapping the header or moving it altogether. Anyone have this same issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Drum brakes have an adjuster that operates when you hit the brakes while backing up. They're left/right specific. If you mixed them up, every time you step on the brakes, they'll adjust tighter. When I used to do drum brakes, I pulled both drums but did one side completely before disassembling the other. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Paul I do the same thing, one side at a time. Not only do you not mix up the parts but it is also a reference to be able to look at one side to compare the spring placement when you don't do drum brakes very often... rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 The drums will get somewhat warm with normal use. Make sure they are adjusted properly, they don't need a lot of drag as some think. Make sure the wheel cylinders are working properly. The adjusters should be marked R&L under the caps that come off. Make sure you dont have a big difference in drum size. I believe 30 thousandths is the max variation side to side. Short shoe to the front always. Let us know how you make out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcmoore2 Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 i adjusted almost all the way in this time. I now have cool drums but the brakes really need a lot of pressure to stop. I will now adjust out a little at a time until i feel that they are working properly, but with no heat from drag. i still think it could be the proportioning valve being gunked up or rusty inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 a good bleeding of the lines might be in order. I had an old car that would slowly apply the brakes as I drove higher in elevation. I actually had to stop and let some pressure out 1/2 way to my destination. No problem on the way down. A good pressure bleed with fresh fluid fixed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Yup gotta find that sweet spot. Like Mark said if you know someone with a pressure bleeder a good flushing of the system cant hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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