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Best Torque converter


Doug

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I have a 1972 monte carlo with 350,mild build competion 268/280 duration,477 lift cam,lifters,hooker long tubes,eldebroke aluminum intake,factory heads with new seals,springs,eldebrock avs 2 650 carb.

When I stop it wants to push a little,I'm going to rebuild trans with b&m rv shift kit,I have looked at the b& m converter tork master 2400 ,I think it says stall is 2200 to 2800.

I'm just crusing not drag racing but maybe take off hard once in a while or smoke the tires.

Would that be a good choice of converter or is that too high,just want to get the most out of what I have and not go too high and mess it up,thanks

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Alot of people like b&m torque converters. I highly recommend staying away from their converters. The shift improver kit, I recommend. 

As far as converters for a street car as you described I recommend a converter from Hughes. I have used a few of them in all brands of cars and have not had one failure. 

I believe the GM25 would be good for your application. My son has it in his 71 Monte Carlo now. Previously it was in his gto convertible that had a 400 poncho. The converter works great! 

If you were doing something more radical I would recommend PTC. I have this converter in my 70 SS with a 496 and love it. 

I'm sure you will get alot of different names. I recommend looking into the Hughes. 

What gears do you have in the rear? 

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if you can get it to idle down, it won't clunk so hard when you put it in gear, and it won't try to pull you when you are stopped...also reduces engine run-on when you shut it off.

Depending on your cam, it may not want to idle that slow. If that's the case, a bit more slip in the converter will let the engine do what it wants without trying to bring the car along.

The downside is that  mileage drops, and you get less engine braking on deceleration...I hate that. The theory is that more stall will let the engine rev where it makes power, but too much will make it feel as if the engine is taking off without the car... and the car catches up later. They say the quarter mile time slips are better with a high stall, but it can take away from that "seat of the pants" feel of a high torque engine.

So it's a double-edge sword. I like the connected feel of a clutch, and a slippery converter takes that away. If you have to go "high stall" only go as far as is required.

My advice is to make a phone call and seek advice for your needs...don't buy off the shelf.

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He's asking for a little higher stall than stock, not a "High stall". 

Purchase the b&m converter and I guarantee it will feel and act as wallaby said. 

Trust me, get the GM25 from Hughes and never look back. 

My son's engine specs out close to yours. And as far as loosing engine braking, he still has it. Although he has 4:10s. 

"Big Red" has engine braking also with a PTC "high stall" converter with 3:31 gears. Not like a stock converter but you definitely feel it and hear it. 

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On 8/2/2020 at 7:53 PM, 71MonteCarloMD said:

My Monte was pushing it when stopping at red light, after rebuilding carb and the problem went away as I believe it was related to vacuum issue.  Have you looked into your vacuum pressure?

No,It started pushing as soon as we changed the cam.

 

On 8/2/2020 at 7:53 PM, 71MonteCarloMD said:

My Monte was pushing it when stopping at red light, after rebuilding carb and the problem went away as I believe it was related to vacuum issue.  Have you looked into your vacuum pressure?

 

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On 8/2/2020 at 8:40 PM, MC1of80 said:

He's asking for a little higher stall than stock, not a "High stall". 

Purchase the b&m converter and I guarantee it will feel and act as wallaby said. 

Trust me, get the GM25 from Hughes and never look back. 

My son's engine specs out close to yours. And as far as loosing engine braking, he still has it. Although he has 4:10s. 

"Big Red" has engine braking also with a PTC "high stall" converter with 3:31 gears. Not like a stock converter but you definitely feel it and hear it. 

I think I would have to buy new flexplate with that converter correct?I think mine is 10.50 and the hughes is 10.75,I think that's correct

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You shouldn't have to purchase a new flexplate.

Although it wouldn't hurt. I use an SFI approved flexplate. 

Your stock flexplate should have a "dual" bolt pattern for different size/style converters. 

An SFI flexplate does and it's stronger than a stock one. 

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