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ARH - American Racing Header - Reviews anyone currently running them?


snomobeelr

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Hello,   Looking for review of ARH currently being used on Big Block  Fit and Quality. I have Patriot headers now they fit well exept they hang to low on the car behind front wheel.  I had tried Dougs headers in past but the Passenger side did not fit it hit the control arm horn that sticks out.  I attached a couple pictures. 

Thanks 

headers.jpg

20181221_083057.jpg

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Was your Monte a 350 and changed to a big block?  If so did you change your front springs? Maybe that would help with the headers.

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A few of us have installed them recently, with good results. I had to ding them a little on the driver side to make clearance for the brake distribution valve, but other than that, they fit fine. Here is a link that includes the experiences from the few of us that should give you some insight to help you decide. It included some pictures of my situation with the Hooker Super Comps to see how low they hang, compared to the ARH headers.

If you plan to use a "mini" starter, be aware that the mainstream ones didn't fit, at least in my case. I ended up with a GM perf. part starter that Mark (Dragcat) had that came with his GMPP crate motor. Pricey, but works great and spins the engine over quick enough that it plays well with the Holley EFI to get a quick timing sync signal to fire up. Any of the ones from Powermaster either didn't physically fit, or didn't spin fast enough. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Read the whole string, there is info all the way through:

https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20498-bb-headers/&tab=comments#comment-206152

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Car used to be a 350 , I have Viking adjustable coil-over shocks all the way around. I don't believe I ever changed the Frame Motor mounts. I don't know if there is a difference between small Big Blocks? I guess my main concerns are the brake proportion block, mine is on the frame and I do not want to move it. Other is the starter. I just got a starter that works right a Powermaster Master Torque. I had to grind some off the starter block because of the header.  I really don't want another starter.   I know how it is when you start swapping parts, seems like something else always needs to be changed.  I am looking at the  1  7\8 header not the 2 inch. 

Thank You 

 

Starter 1.jpg

Starter 2.jpg

Starter 3.jpg

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oh crud, those are close. I had to modify my shorty headers to let me remove the oil filter. I wish there was a good answer.

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The 3 Powermaster starters I used were the XS9500 (which was ARH's recommendation, but didn't spin the engine fast enough), the 9004 & 9450. Those last 2 didn't fit with the headers, even changing the clock position. They look different than the one you have, but from the pictures can't really tell if it'll work for you. It sure is pretty close to the header though.

The GMPP starter that Mark & I use now is GM part number: 19302919

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Did you guys get 2 inch or 1 7\8 Headers ?  Ill have to figure it out. I know all cars even same models can be different depending on parts used and such. The Patriot headers I have do work , but they hang low. Im not bottoming out all the time but it does once  in a great while. Main issue is I don't like how you see the exhaust when u step back from the car.  Here is a picture of how close the Proportioning valve is. 

Proportioning Valve  1.jpg

Proportioning Valve  2.jpg

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I'll ditto on Joe's suggestion on reading the link, lots of info there. 

I went with 2" primaries, and my proportioning valve looks similar to your pictured. I haven't had any bottoming out issues, and I have to go over 2 speed bumps leaving my hood. Some fast and furious cars have to do some creative driving for them lol. I'll see if I can get a "level" picture to show how they tuck up this week, all mine are from me standing a couple of feet away. And since we are having cooler weather I figured it would be a good time to test the heater lol. 

I will say this, the quality and support from ARH has been great and I would highly recommend. And yes I know they are pricier than most anything else out there.  

(edit) oh and I have a GM 502 Crate.

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Thanks guys.   I have gone back and read through that other post as well.   I would be going with the 1 7/8. I reached out to Dan - Overdrive since he has the 7 1/8 installed. He said

"plenty of room for the original starter. One tube is close to the valve, but it doesn't touch it and never had a heat issue with it.   The only thing I found that I didn't like is that the driver side header is in the way of the backdrive linkage from the transmission"

Here is a better look at how low my patriots hang.

 

 

 

Header .jpg

Header 2.jpg

Header 3.jpg

IMG_9024.jpg

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Hey Alan , I too had an issue with the back drive linkage ( I call it steering wheel lock linkage lol ) not fitting. I don't think I posted it in the thread because Joe (jft69z) mentioned it. Joe asked me today about it so I thought I would add it here, I never fab'd anything to make it work so far. But it also got me thinking, I had another issue with my a/c bracket (link below) but Joe found me the spec's and I just modified my stock one to fit. Also is a picture of my headers, i'm laying on my side and probably tilted the camera up a tad to much but again Ive had no clearance issues. 

 

 

Header.jpg

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Ya yours are defiantly tucked up nice.  Car looks great , love the wheels. No one wants to pay a lot but I am willing if it fits right. It seems like everything I get some other change needs to be made though. Nature of the beast.  It looks like it may be the ARH. I also found this place GP Headers in Minnasota. They have a kit you buy to mockup your headers. Send them the mocks ups and they build your headers. The nice thing is you can be sure it will fit everything. The down side like everything is the cost. 

Thanks again guys !!

https://www.gpheaders.com/products/custom-headers/

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30 minutes ago, snomobeelr said:

It seems like everything I get some other change needs to be made though.

Welcome to the snowball effect.....  I was all set to use my old Hooker Super Comps, until the bad influences here made me get the ARH's, lol. Glad I did too, wouldn't have been happy the way the Hookers hung so low. 

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Bad influences 🤣 . Yea the first time I saw the price on the ARH I was like theres no way! But doing research thats the direction I went, also glad I did. Keep us posted on your progress 

(edit) one other thing (after reading Marks /wallaby's comment) I have to turn my oil filter sideways to change it out. Its a tad messy 

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I have headman shorty style with the conical flanges. I had to cut a wedge out of my collector, bend it, then re-weld it to get it to clear my oil filter. At that moment, I was SO glad I didn't opt for the coated version, and had only bought the painted ones. What is it with these header people that can't even make it fit the engine assembly...let alone the chassis?

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Alan, I didn't have any clearance issues with the oil filter and the ARH headers installed. Plenty of room except when I went to do an oil change I had to turn the filter sideways. To be more specific, i'm holding the old filter in my hand, removed from the block, and I had to turn is sideways to get it out of the "pocket" so obviously there was some spillage.

As far as the linkage, mine is sitting in a box on a shelf labeled "try to fab something next year" 🤣

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  • 5 weeks later...

I put my ARH headers on several years ago and they fit great. I don't know what I was doing wrong the day I was messing with the back drive linkage, but I didn't think it was going to fit and I put it on a shelf for later modification. When Alan asked me recently about my experience with the headers, I mentioned that issue. He asked for pictures, so I tried to install it again. I was glad to find it fits with zero issues. I don't know if I had a wrong piece of linkage the first time, or what. 

The tubes run close to the brake combination valve on the frame, but it doesn't ever touch and I've had no problems at all with the heat near the valve. 

I use a 2 quart truck oil filter and have no problem getting it past the headers. Changing the filter without dumping oil out is easy. The headers that were on the car when I got it had terrible clearance there, and I was using a one quart filter at that time. 

I used the Stage 8 header bolts and they are excellent. I would recommend them to everyone. 

Dan

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  • 1 year later...

Update , help?  So I was exited the  headers finally arrived. Issue on the passenger side she is hitting the frame horn and awfully close to frame. Was wondering if anyone had pictures of theirs?  BBC 454  - 73 block. I bought the 1 7/8 headers. Brodix race rite heads with D-Port. Should be stock location.  Stock motor mounts. Car used to be a 350. Don't remember if I changed the frame mounts for the motor or not? 

 

 

passenger side ARH 4.jpg

Passenger side ARH.jpg

passenger side ARH 1.jpg

Passenger side ARH 3.jpg

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Can't help with you specifics, sorry Alan. You can look through the below link, lots of member comments on their installations, might help. I have a GM 502 crate motor, went with the 2" primaries and changed to the poly motor mounts. Passenger side would not drop in from the top but slid in easy from the bottom. I checked for a picture, couldn't find a good one but looks similar to your first one. I don't have any from the bottom 

 

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The first picture shows them unbolted. Are they bolted up now? Mine fit pretty good with plenty of room from touching my frame. I used poly motor mounts as well. How does your transmission mount look?

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Im installing them from the bottom up. The passenger side is  hitting the frame horn (last two pictures) can't get it all the way in position to bolt up.  heres a pic of old and new. The pipes look thicker than the old. Thicker material?  I ordered 1 7/8 and invoice says 1 7/8. 

Passenger side  ARH & Patriot.jpg

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