The Archivist Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 We finished the OPGI bushing kit install with extra two biscuit bushings on our 70 SS 454 conversion, my GOD what a PITA, but nothing spun on us😀😀😀! We want to tackle the front end while the plastic fender wells are off. So the old control arms are rusty/bushings are dried out etc. What brand part models do you guys recommend, should we stay stock OEM with OEM style parts like Moog. RESTOPARTS or Dorman/Summit control arms with the ball joints and bushings already installed. Or go with new tubular? Where planning on replacing the tie rods/drag link etc. The brakes are new and have new calipers and lines.  Were okay using the old springs (not sure if they are original or not) as the level is nice as is.  Any specific brands or models you all might suggest (part numbers from Summit)? Tubular or stock? Budget is a concern some but not a deal breaker. We don't race the car its not a daily driver but good steering and performance is a plus. Ive always felt the steering was a little loose with play and not tight. I guess a gear box redo would be an option but I prefer not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Archivist Posted December 11, 2020 Author Share Posted December 11, 2020 I should add the car has the OPGI OEM style rear sway bar, new bushings on the ears of the 12 bolt 373 pumpkin and boxed lower OPGI control arms and UMI uppers. New rear springs, rubber grommet above them and HD shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 I used Proforged suspension parts for the majority of the front end rebuild. Ball joints, tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, etc. You'll find a few here recommend them as well. I used Moog for the control arm rubber bushings, front & rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Archivist Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 Great Im going with proforged then. Im also looking at the RESTOPARTS replacement style OEM controls arms/upper lowers with ball/bushings installed and the OPGI tubular performance series. Im really inclined to go with the OPGI as its cheaper and they claim they will increase the precision of the front end handling.  Any thoughts of OEM controls vs OPGI Tubular performance series for A body 68-72 Monte/Chevelle/Camino? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Archivist Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 This https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspension/steering-components/control-arms-front3/control-arm-64-72-a-body-front-upper-complete-ch26896.html Vs this https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspension/suspension-components/tubular-control-arms5/control-arms-tubular-1964-72-a-body-lower-pp04902.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Bad454 Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 If you want good front end handling I would go with polyurethane bushings. I just had my steering box rebuilt to a quick ratio unit from http://www.powersteering.com     Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Bad454 Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 I bought after market stamped control arms but removed the rubber bushings and installed polyurethane. But I'm trying to keep to the stock look.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Archivist Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 Good to know! What brand aftermarket stamped arms did you go with? Im reading that people are iffy about the ball joints the yare using RESTOPARTS OEM replacements and the SUMMIT tubular performance series as neither use MOOG ball joints that are better engineered and can save you from failure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Be careful with OPGI as well. You may find the parts will take forever to get to you, shipping may be expensive too, compared to others. If it says 'backordered'....forget it. I'll usually cut/paste the part number, google it and see what pops. Most of the time Summit will have it, and if the price is higher, they'll match it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Very few tubular lower control arms have any advantage over stock or replacement stamped arms. Only when you get up to BMR or QA1 do you see any caster improvement. Quite a few of the cheap offshore arms have dropped spring pockets too, so the car may end up too low if you have drop springs or like your current height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Bad454 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 On 12/12/2020 at 8:48 AM, The Archivist said: Good to know! What brand aftermarket stamped arms did you go with? Im reading that people are iffy about the ball joints the yare using RESTOPARTS OEM replacements and the SUMMIT tubular performance series as neither use MOOG ball joints that are better engineered and can save you from failure I bought my stamped units from RPS https://restorationpartssource.com/store/about_rps.htm It took over a month for them to ship out to me.. I called several times during that time following up as well. The units were nice. I ended up removing the ball joints and rubber bushings so I could have the control arms powder coated. I installed polyurethane bushings and also prefer to have the ability to unbolt the ball joints and replace if needed in the future. I also ended up using the stock cross shafts since the new were different (a nut rather than the factory bolt). See pics below one is the unit before I took it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 17 minutes ago, 1Bad454 said: I bought my stamped units from RPS https://restorationpartssource.com/store/about_rps.htm It took over a month for them to ship out to me.. I called several times during that time following up as well. The units were nice. I ended up removing the ball joints and rubber bushings so I could have the control arms powder coated. I installed polyurethane bushings and also prefer to have the ability to unbolt the ball joints and replace if needed in the future. I also ended up using the stock cross shafts since the new were different (a nut rather than the factory bolt). See pics below one is the unit before I took it apart. Just an FYI. If you want the rivet look you can get the rivnuts. The work great and you can still remove them 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Archivist Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 Im happy with the current high and Im good with staying stock but these now on the car gotta go, to rusty pitted. Does any one offer a stock OEM style replacement that you can remove the ball joint easily and put in a moog/proforged?  I just ordered the proforged rebuild front end kit with drag link and idler etc. So now it down to control arms.  I see OEM replacements form Goodmark, RESTOPARTS, AUTO METAL DIRECT, DORMAN. All with cheapie ball joints it appears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Bad454 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 2 hours ago, The Archivist said: Im happy with the current high and Im good with staying stock but these now on the car gotta go, to rusty pitted. Does any one offer a stock OEM style replacement that you can remove the ball joint easily and put in a moog/proforged?  I just ordered the proforged rebuild front end kit with drag link and idler etc. So now it down to control arms.  I see OEM replacements form Goodmark, RESTOPARTS, AUTO METAL DIRECT, DORMAN. All with cheapie ball joints it appears. I too was looking for new control arms without ball joints and couldn't find any. You will need to drill out the rivets. It was a bear on the first one and by the second I had a handle on it and it came off pretty easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 I went with QA1 for tubular control arms. Street version. Comes with upper and lower balljoints. Nice looking unit and pretty stout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotinrob Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 I'm using BMR tubular with Chassis Works AFX billet spindles, Eaton stock rate springs with a larger swaybar on my 70 SS car. Also have a Grand Cherokee steering box. This dropped the front about 1/2 inch. A set of old Good Year tires on 15 inch rallies. Handles much better than stock but time to work on the rear suspension. The 255 60 Drag Radials on the back don't help the rear steering much. rotinrob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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