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Monte Carlo update.


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Hi everyone,

Its been a while since I posted anything, but was going to give an update on my Monte. If you recall, my flexplate was installed backwards and the starter sounded horrible. Sometimes it wouldn't even engage.  I finally broke down and paid a shop to replace my flexplate. Well worth it in  my opinion. I didn't really want to lay on my back using 4 jack stands to wrestle the trans  out.  Had a new flex[late installed and she starts beautifully.... every time.   I am really happy how it turned out.

 

While the car was there, I asked if they could finish rebuilding my front suspension and do an alignment. I had installed upper control arms in my driveway due to the bushings being completely gone. I had my shop install new lower control arms, new front springs, new front shocks and do an alignment. Everything went smooth until the alignment. They could not get the steering wheel straight. The tie rods were almost turned all the way in on 1 side and almost all the way out on the other side. They recentered the box (made sure it was the same amount of turns left to right) and evened up the tie rods. They were able to get the front suspension in spec, but the steering wheel was way off (almost 180*)  The contact for the horn comes out around the 6 o'clock position, not the 11 o'clock position. They were thinking it was the wrong steering wheel (completely possible since this car was pieced together) but after doing a little research, it seems to me that this steering wheel should work. The hole for the horn contact comes out around the 11 o'clock position on the steering wheel. 

 

Is this possible?  Can the steering column be clocked wrong?  It is a tilt/floor shift column, but the car started life as a bench seat automatic. Is it possible to install the intermediate shaft wrong? I know its a double D joint at the steering box, but what about at the column near the brake booster? Can it be clocked wrong inside the column where it flexes for the tilt feature?

 

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

John

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I suppose that if the colum was changed at some point in its life something could be put I wrong somewhere. Possibly the upper shift was taken apart and put back in wrong??? Only speculation on my part. I doubt it's internal in the column but who knows. Sounds they really tried to get it right for you. At least you know the front end is right now and now it's a matter of figuring out what it is one step at a time. Good luck with it, please keep up posted.

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Brew, my horn contact moves, but not that much. I just removed my steering wheel and noticed that I am about 90* off. The line that you have at the 12:00 position is at 9:00 on my car. 

 

If anyone can check, can you tell me the location of your intermediate shaft bolts under the hood when your wheels are straight. When my wheels are straight, the bolt that attaches the steering shaft to the steering box is at the 6:00 position, and the bolt attaches the steering shaft to the steering column near the brake booster is at 12:00.  Trying to figure out if I have a problem in the steering column or the steering box

 

Thanks

John

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Sorry the lighting sucks. And my engine still needs a good cleaning after a year at the paint shop with no hood until the day I brought it home. 

i think that’s the bolt you are asking about

A892C0CD-B5AE-498C-8146-0D5F7E49C6F7.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Brew said:

That little white plastic thing rotates a bit. Don’t think it will give you 180 but once I realized it moves it got mine straight

 

thats all the advise I got on that

0A0FE31C-485E-4DF0-98E1-FC5E6319777F.jpeg

The horn contact looks to be in the correct location

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Brew- Thats the bolt I was looking for. Mine sits horizontal when the wheels are straight. (12:00 position).  Yours sits vertical (9:00 position) Thanks

 

Dtret-  I'll try to adjust. I thought the shaft had a double flat spot that lines up with the double flat spot on the box. But I could be wrong

 

John

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2 minutes ago, 71SSclone said:

Brew- Thats the bolt I was looking for. Mine sits horizontal when the wheels are straight. (12:00 position).  Yours sits vertical (9:00 position) Thanks

 

Dtret-  I'll try to adjust. I thought the shaft had a double flat spot that lines up with the double flat spot on the box. But I could be wrong

 

John

I just looked at my shaft. Up where it attaches to the steering column it is a splined shaft but I didn’t see any flat spots 

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  • 4 weeks later...

More updates. Since the steering box felt a little loose, even after playing with the adjustment, I decided to replace the steering box. When I removed the box from the frame, 1 mounting bolt was rusted in half. I installed a new Borgeson quick ratio box and a new rag joint. I also ordered a new 3 spoke steering wheel from The Parts Place (not installed yet) I centered the box, the flat spot on the input shaft was at the 12:00 position, installed the rag joint and steering shaft. From inside the car, the line stamped into the steering shaft was at the 12:00, and there was a mark at the 12:00 position on the steering wheel. Seems like everything should be lined up. Lets go on a test drive.

 

I love the feel of this box, nice and firm, and responsive. But my steering wheel was still 70* off to the left. Grrrrr.  Looking at the steering linkage, Im thinking something doesn't quite look right with the center link. So, I ordered a new center link, pitman arm, and idler arm. Maybe a wrong part was installed sometime in it's life. Who knows. After that, if it's not fixed, I'm  going to install new inner and outer tie rods. Hopefully the knuckles are ok, that would be the only thing left, besides a bent frame. The body seems to line up ok, but nothing is perfect on this thing. 

 

I really hope to get this steering concern fixed before I take to the body shop for winter repair work. Thats going to be a whole new can of worms. lol

 

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Your steering column issues sound exactly like mine after I replaced my steering box with a quick ratio version. Everything is splined with a keyed spline.. the pitman arm to steering box gear, the rag joints have two different sized bolts, the steering shaft has flat spots for the set screws, and the steering wheel spline is also keyed. What I cannot recall is whether or not the base of the column spline is also keyed, but as I type this I remember I have a spare steering column in my garage, which I will we take a peek at. Anyway, I have been told time and time again that an alignment will cure the steering wheel off center problem however having had 2 alignments that hasn't panned out for me, and my steering wheel is also skewed to the right of center pretty significantly. I will check my spare column spline and get back to you but if you find a solution to this problem please let me know. I feel like a Beverly Hillbilly driving along with a cockeyed steering wheel. 

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James, this has been an issue since purchased the car in June. It was aligned before, but the adjustment was almost turned all the way in on 1 set of tie rods and turned all the way out on the other side. Not exactly ideal. I'll keep updating when I find out something new

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got around to checking the column lower shaft spline for a key and it has an indent that, from what i recall, has a bolt that fits in the indent and pinches a collar type fitting to the lower shaft spline area. It has been a few years since i changed my column shift to a floor shift and that is when i swapped columns and had to monkey with all that stuff. At this point the best i can guess is that the new steering box is keyed differently which makes the steering wheel misaligned when its all put back together. If anyone has a way of moving the entire steering wheel approximately 10 degrees i would love to hear it. 

 

 

I can attach a pic if anyone wants to see what i mean about the lower spline being keyed with a groove that a bolt goes through, let me know. 

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The steering boxes are not keyed differently. With the wheels straight, count how many turns it takes to go to full turn each way. I'm sure you will find more turns one way than the other. 

The issue is most likely in the tie rod adjustments. 

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James,

I'd love to see a pic. Post it.  But I think Thomas is correct that it might be a tie rod issue.

I have aligned the new box, aligned the steering column, and positioned the steering wheel at the right place on the column. I have even now replaced the center link, pitman arm and idler arm. It is still off center.  I'll get it aligned again, and see just exactly how far off the tie rods are between each side.

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I don’t think spending money on a center link and tie rods is the right way to go. Drop the entire steering tie rod/link assembly. Straighten everything up with the box and readjust the tie rods so the sleeves are centered. The parts you’re replacing aren’t necessarily bad just way out of adjustment. When you get it aligned you should have a ton of adjustment toe in or out. 

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Dennis,

I didn't really mind replacing the center link, idler and pitman arms. They looked original, and with them being 50 years old, new parts certainly didnt hurt. My problem is that Im almost out of adjustment (2-3 turns) on the right side and I have 4-5 threads showing on the left side. I need to bring the right side in as much as possible, (tires are pointed to the right) and extend the left side out an equal amount. To me, that just doesn't seem right. Next time its aligned, I'm going to be underneath to see whats going on. 

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I had an alignment shop center my tie rods because my car did turn further one way than the other, causing the brake line to be stressed even. After the tie rods were pretty much the same total length, centered in their adjustment the car is in perfect alignment however the steering wheel is still not centered when the wheels are pointed straight ahead. What i am saying is centering the tie rods may or may not correct the steering wheel issue. 

 

Been there, done that, didnt work. Ill get on that pic later today when i am in the garage and post it up. 

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Here is a pic of the lower spline on the steering column. You can see the cutout for where a bolt passes through to lock the spline in place and prevent it from rotating if something were to damage the spline teeth.

 

 

shaft.jpg

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