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Dash Pad Repair?


72-CLASSIC_RIDE

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The (4) screws holding my Dash Pad secured over instrumentation are stripped, not holding Dash Pad flush to Dash Structure.  Tried the tooth pick thing and worked briefly until those wooden screw threads relaxed.

So, looking as an alternative to use fiberglass resin filling those (4) locations, drying and cutting new threads.  What I don't know is, has anyone seen what is inside those pockets and/or how much void?  I used a small dental style Pic with a 45 degree tip and felt around but still without any idea what I may expect when filling.  Thinking about including tooth picks as a filler should I decide I need it.

Anyway, I do remember reading awhile back on the Forum and where I got the tooth pick idea but couldn't locate it again.  Any experience, idea's greatly appreciated especially if you had already done a similar successful repair.

Thanx all...........

Doug

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I recently repaired mine I did not take any pictures I will try my best to explain what I did this may sound hokey but I repaired it with metal strips. I bought some metal strips for hanging pictures that you can buy at a home improvement store the strips of metal were 1/32 of an inch thick. I cut them in lengths of 1 1/2“ x 1/2“ wide. I pulled back the cover of the dash pad  then centered the strips of metal over the existing holes In the dash pad and attached the strips with small screws. I believe I used  # 6 x 3/8 inch screws. I found screws with a flat head. I then Used loctite spray adhesive then pulled the cover of the dash pad  back over the metal strips then mounted the dash pad and marked the holes and drilled them.The reason I used the metal strips for hanging pictures instead of sheet metal is that metal is hardened a little bit and is stiffer it does not bend as easy it is more rigid. It sounds kind of crude but it worked. The screws will hold better in the metal then the material the dash pad is made of.

John S

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I also used drywall push ins. Put some glue on the outside and push them in. Wait 24 hours and screw them in. Mine held for years.

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I like all of those ideas!  I had considered a variation of Johns early on and believe it being the most permanent repair but also the most involved.  The Dry Wall Plugs I had not considered and will look into this one.  What was involved in the Dry Wall Plug's?  Did you have to open the holes wider for Plugs to fit?  I'm leaning on this approach for now.

Appreciate your thoughts and will likely use your suggestion(s).

Regards,

Doug   

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4 hours ago, 1970mcss said:

I used a little JBWeld, filled the holes, let it dry and replaced the screws

That was my first thought as I already had it available but balked as I couldn't determine what was inside those Dash Pad cavities where screws secured thru.  Was concerned JB wouldn't fill out voids trapping air in them, again because unknown what's involved.  Gonna start with Dry Wall Plug suggestion and if decide otherwise, I have everything needed to use Fiberglass Resin to fill those voids if it's fluid enuff or the JB Weld.  The whole issue arose when I noticed one of my turn signal dash lites was not signaling and bulb needed replaced.  Realized my initial repair was not sufficient when I tried reinstalling Dash Cap after bulb replacements.  While using tooth picks held it down initially, the threads relaxed and was noticeable where Dash Cap and Dash structure meet particularly along the left hand side you can see with driver door open.  Got the Dash Cap sitting across the Hood in garage and going over shortly to examine a little thoroughly.  😁    

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5 hours ago, 1970mcss said:

I used a little JBWeld, filled the holes, let it dry and replaced the screws

I did the same thing but with plastic weld.  so far so good.

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  • 1 month later...

I've seen plumber's putty or PL 400 used. Just make sure it hardens up before you put the screws back in. I've even seen chewing gum used on some of the dashes I've pulled apart over the years. People can get inventive when there's a little annoyance that just won't go away.. lol

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I ended up using fiberglass Resin.  I used a hypodermic syringe filled with resin and injected into each of the (4) problematic stripped holes in Dash Pad until slightly overflowing.  Once dried, leveled filled holes and installed Pad.  Screws tightened up securely and Pad has stayed in secure position last few weeks, so am very happy with result.  Then I decided as long as was out, I would repaint Pad as well and repaired my Glove Box chrome Knob from falling of again by crimping around collar.  It appears this Knob had been previously messed with and didn't really repair anything.  To do this, had to remove cylinder from housing.  Only other remaining issue(s) is A/C!  I've had a New (NOS) Compressor Pump installed as rebuilt one previously installed leaked oil around front of housing.  Recharged A/C, runs for the season and during winter, discharges.  Guess I have not found the right Tech to get this loss of propellant resolved for me.  134A propellant compliant, so don't see that as a problem.  Will also take her in and have front end suspension checked for needs and aligning steering wheel also.  Was going to adjust tie rod ends myself but wanted suspension looked at and steering wheel turns almost 2 full turns to the right but only a turn when left.  Then a mild cleaning and under the Car Cover until Nice weather again.

Doug

  

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