Crom Cruach Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 I need to replace my rear glass seal, see photo. Is this item from metro what I need C (from a Chevelle): https://metrommp.com/window_sweeper_kit_fits_2door_hardtop_wc_200331/?Year=1972&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Chevelle Metro moulded have a sale on 25% off not too shabby! Code “CARSALE25” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 You need the ribbon for old schoolers. Or the urethane sealer glass shops use. It comes in a tube that can be used in a caulking gun. The glass must be removed, both surfaces cleaned and prepped and reinstalled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted November 9, 2021 Author Share Posted November 9, 2021 Thanks, so it’s not model-specific, good to know. Maybe not a DIY job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Paul, It may be very hard to remove the rear window without breaking it but it can be done. It really depends how dried out the old seal is. What I have heard some people do it get something like a piano wire and get it fed through the old seal and then with one person on the outside and another on the inside work the wire in and out all the way around the glass, cutting through the old seal like a saw. Like Thomas said, you will need to then thoroughly clean the channel and glass of all old seal. If it were me, I think once it is cleaned I may hire someone that works at an auto glass company because you do not want any water at all to get in around that glass. rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 Hmm, thanks Rob, is it possible to repair the seal and leave the glass in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 I have always use the piano wire mostly pulled out windshields pulled out a number of them haven’t broken one yet. It just requires patience 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Brichta Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 I have always removed windshields and rear glass using a 1" putty knife and going around the inside of the glass little by little until the old seal is broken loose. Once glass is removed, the channel and glass have to be thoroughly cleaned and prepped. I then call my local glass installer and purchase glass sealer in a tube from him and put the urethane bead around the edge and press the glass back into place. I never had much luck trying to seal a leak without removing the glass. Good luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 31 minutes ago, Crom Cruach said: Hmm, thanks Rob, is it possible to repair the seal and leave the glass in place? Paul, Not really, to do it right you should remove it. If there is a leak around the seal, It is almost impossible to tell for sure where the leak is or even if it is only leaking in one place. Even if it is leaking in only one place, for sure it will be leaking in others real soon. rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 Would you guys all be inclined to use urethane, or anyone using an old-school gasket strip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Urethane for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Urethane ,it lasts and lasts,and lasts..... Sorry, mine has been in since '05 and NO Issues! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Urethane with the proper primer for the area, whether it's the 3M stuff from a can or epoxy primer. A good coat of primer will make sure water never causes issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 So, while your at it, you can put drains just inside of the bottom curve going to center of car . I used a radiator repair drain plug ( for plastic sided radiator's). It has a rubber o- ring to seal up each side of it. If I remember right , it was about an 1-1/4" from just where it flattens out from curve. This way when water runs off of glass it will follow under your trim piece to those radiator plugs . From the opposite side of the drain plug, I ran a 1/2" clear poly tube down to my trunk drain plugs(behind rear tires, trunk floor drop off panel). Here is a picture of that repair drain plug. Well, not all of my pictures are showing up right now. I'll P.M. you when they come back.There it is!! I thinking some auto parts store there would have this. I can also climb in my trunk for pictures of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Woah that’s boots and braces James, my kind of over-engineered! I just ordered piano wire and a 1” putty knife so getting ready for the pain! Don’t know what I will do if I break the glass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Dow makes a primerless adhesive that works well. I usually used 3M in the past, but last year I used the Dow 418 with good results. I got a setup from Amazon that also included a primer anyways. The also have it with 3 tubes somewhere as well. Also A long knife will work wonders too (I got both at the time). Also, I use the removal tool with the pull cable, but you need to be careful with that one. I use it most of the time, but let the blade do the work, keep it FLAT on the glass too. Don't rock it back and forth or you may crack the glass. I've had that one for over 30 years now, been pretty lucky with it. Never had much luck with piano wire though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076T1ZJMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HSOTSE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004138T0K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-87900-Windshield-Removal/dp/B0002SRDR8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=TINP95XFIM78&keywords=window+removal+tool&qid=1636661662&qsid=146-3850774-3179145&s=automotive&sprefix=window+removal+%2Cautomotive%2C155&sr=1-5&sres=B07HNRB2CJ%2CB0002SRDR8%2CB07HRNKY8P%2CB085WM215H%2CB0002BC082%2CB00H8K8S0O%2CB00HSCG4TE%2CB076PY8785%2CB07MZKYG5D%2CB07DNR59BV%2CB07V22YC9J%2CB07TL9X79V%2CB07T7M17PD%2CB071Z7T4Y5%2CB01KXN7LE6%2CB000JFHMX4%2CB09B9MVZQ7%2CB000CO96VI%2CB08D6H8ZPN%2CB01LYZZUYS 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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