1970mcss Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 I have the original carburetor on the car. I had it rebuilt a while back but the car still doesn't run that great on hard acceleration. The secondary air flaps weren't working correctly and I noticed that the return spring is not connected. I can can order the spring kit and replace it but I'm just wondering if I should save the original carb and replace it with a new carb. I want to keep the car as original as possible but it also needs to run right. That said, I need opinions on weather to fix it and if I replace it what is the best brand would you recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 Paul, I wish I could give you the name of the guy in Ohio who is supposed to be the Guru on rebuilding the quadrajet carbs. I have heard he is the absolute best. Since I am an originality freak that is what I would do but that is just me. I think it mostly boils down to how original you want the car to be. I am sure you will get many varied thoughts on this. You will have to sort through them to make your decision. Maybe someone here knows about the guy in Ohio I am talking about. rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 I'm with Rob. Original. The secondary flaps can be adjusted/tuned. Ez pz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 Good point, I guess try fixing the original carb would be the smartest and easiest thing to try first. I can always replace the carb if needed. Do I need another kit if I pull the the top of the carb off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 13 minutes ago, MC1of80 said: I'm with Rob. Original. The secondary flaps can be adjusted/tuned. Ez pz. The spring is bad and needs to be placed. Is another rebuild needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 As for Rob’s wish. I do believe his name is Cliff Ruggles. He’s about 50 miles or so south of Cleveland. Last I heard he had a nine month waiting list. But you may want to email him. He’s got a great book too. He will eventually get my paperweight too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 I followed his instructions in the book on how to get rid of that stumble on hard acceleration and to correctly set up how fast the secondary Air flaps should open. His advice worked I got rid of that stumble on acceleration. John S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted November 19, 2021 Share Posted November 19, 2021 Dennis, thanks for posting that information on Cliff Ruggles. rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted November 19, 2021 Author Share Posted November 19, 2021 Thank for the name and info. I found that the spring on the air valves wasn't connected. Got a new spring and rebuild kit on the way. I got the shift out so I don't think I need to take it apart but it doesn't hurt to have spare parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted November 24, 2021 Author Share Posted November 24, 2021 Update: I took the carb off and the spring was shot. Replaced it and adjusted it to 1 1/8 turn. Also noticed most of the choke parts were not reinstalled correctly. Fixed all that too. Took it for a quick ride and it stubled after it warmed up. It seemed to run better after I took it out again. I need to check the plugs and timing next. I did notice that car didn't smell like gas after my road test. Before when I would pull in the garage it almost smelled li,e raw gas it was so rich. Might drive it to work tomorrow to see how it runs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted November 24, 2021 Share Posted November 24, 2021 Horray on your progress! Quadrajets take alot more time to adjust compared to a Holley. Once adjusted though... Nice! Lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted December 4, 2021 Author Share Posted December 4, 2021 Timing question, I checked my plugs, wires and cap and rotor. All good. I researched setting basic timing and advanced or total timing. I set the basic to 6 degrees before TDC. I read that advanced could be 32-34 degrees and as high as 38 degree. I set it at 36, is that to high for a stock engine? I adjusted down the idle and took it for a ride. It has never run this good, no misfires or back fires. I did read that if advanced to far it could hurt the motor. Let me know your thoughts, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnieb50 Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 Rule of thumb from what I was told. Dont go further than 12 ATDC things start getting too close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted December 6, 2021 Author Share Posted December 6, 2021 Thanks, I will double check the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 FYI, Remember to remove the hose from the distributor vacuum advance, prior to checking and adjusting your initial timing. I prefer to use "ported" vacuum for my advance, where there is NO vacuum at idle then it increases when the throttle is opened. My 71 had several "emissions" related devices designed to hold off any vacuum till the trans is in high gear and some other related things that I removed back in 71. You can verify what fitting on your carb is ported by using a vacuum gauge, run the engine and watch the gauge when you raise the speed or "rev it up". It's been a few years but I think I have mine set for 8 degrees BTDC at idle. It was around 12 BTDC but the cost of premium gas to prevent "spark knock" was not worth it to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1970mcss Posted December 6, 2021 Author Share Posted December 6, 2021 Bruce, thanks for the response. I did have the vacuum advance plugged when I was setting the timing. I'm going to double check everything tonight to make sure the car isn't to far advanced. I am using the ported vacuum port. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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