Dtret Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 My blower motor runs all the time. The only way to shut it off is by disconnecting the battery. I just put on a new blower relay. No change. I can shut it off by moving the selector lever to off. No key in ignition. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71MonteCarloMD Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 Did you check ground to the blower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Sounds like it's been wired directly to a battery terminal instead of an ignition terminal..... or there's a short in the ignition switch ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 20, 2021 Share Posted December 20, 2021 Will the motor vary speeds with the selector, or just one constant speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 The big black wire feeds full time power from the horn relay. The black changes color to the orange fused link that runs through the wire gutter(holder) on the firewall and goes to the blower relay. My sense is the relay should cut that  power source until activated by the ignition switch than send power to the blower. I replaced the blower relay. Joe it does vary speeds off the selector switch. Ironically before I replaced the blower relay it would only work on high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 I think that separate fused wire is for the high speed fan operation. The fact that you now have the lower speeds after replacing the relay, is a good thing too. I'm at work now, but I'll poke around the schematics tomorrow or so and give you a call. We'll figure something out. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 I forgot to add that I lowered the steering column and disconnected the ignition switch and it still runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 I have power to the fuse box on the orange side( with the fuse out). Orange wire goes from fuse box to ignition switch. Ignition switch wiring is disconnected. What is the 18ga brown w/white stripe pigtailed in with the orange. I can’t find it on the wiring schematics and I can’t find where it terminates. Could this wire be what is powering the orange wire in the black ignition switch pigtail?  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 It's on the schematic, top left at the 'Ignition. Sw . Conn'. The pic I sent you of my old harness connection has that brown/white wire too. Looks like it goes to the bulkhead connector, where it also ties up with a brown wire that goes to the dash gauges (labeled 'To Printed Circuit'). On the engine side of the bulkhead connector, it's hard to see on the GM print, but it looks like nothing is connected there. It may just be a splice point for the wire that goes to the dash, possibly for the Alternator light 'test' function. When I get home later from work, then x-mas dinner, I'll check my harness to see if there's anything on the engine side. One thing to note, it makes a difference how that dash connector is wired if it's an 'idiot light' car, vs. the optional gauge package. Is yours an 'idiot light' dash? I'll check the AAW prints, I think they have a good pic that shows the two setups at the dash. Possible someone put a gauge package in place of idiot light & didn't wire it accordingly? I still don't think that orange wire should be powered, except when the ignition switch is in the 'Run' position. My car doesn't have that dark green wire either, which looks like it goes to the engine temp switch. Keep in mind, I'm going off of '72 prints right now, as I have them with me here at work. EDIT: I looked at the AAW print for the Gauge/Idiot light connections, a lot of things would be wrong if those were mixed up. Quite a bit different. I'd maybe unplug the connector from the gauge pod, see if that's back feeding the orange wire? With the Ign. Switch connector unplugged, that orange wire should be dead, as it gets it's feed from the red wire, thru the ign. switch, then to the fuse to power the heater blower. I think...lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 I put in sonny’s gauge package. Very well could be wired wrong, I did it. Go enjoy Christmas we can deal with this crap later. Thanks for the ongoing help. Merry Christmas to you guys and the pups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 11 minutes ago, Dtret said: I put in sonny’s gauge package. Very well could be wired wrong, I did it. Go enjoy Christmas we can deal with this crap later. Thanks for the ongoing help. Merry Christmas to you guys and the pups. I'm working 12 hours anyways, nothing else to do. Well, except maybe keep the power on for NY State 🤣 I would definitely unplug the dash connector then, see if the orange wire is still powered up. Send me the wiring diagrams for that whenever you get a chance. No hurry. Merry Christmas to you & Karen as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 So with Joe’s help and some backwards thinking, it turns out it was a bad voltage regulator(?). Go figure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 Dennis and Joe, i am sorry i didn't say it earlier but one of the problems i had when i first got my 72 started was 2 bad reg. Never would of thought it was as Rob said it might be. I changed it didnt work until i spoke to my parts guy saying that one might be bad. Changed it again and it took care of that problem. But i did have a few electrical gremlins. Glad you guys figured it out, but i know what a PIA!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 It didn't help that the factory schematic has a couple of errors in regards to the brown wire in relation to the bulkhead connector location. Going by the print slowed down the solution. Dennis verified it on his car, and I'll check my old harness, but it's definitely wrong, at least in my version of the service manual. Great job Dennis! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie Posted December 26, 2021 Share Posted December 26, 2021 Agreed, Great job Dennis and Joe!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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