Trunk mount battery

[70MC402]

Like the title suggests has anyone relocated their battery to the rear to help shift weight in their car? A side benefit would be removing more from the engine compartment appearance wise.
 

I have an idea of how I would do it with a master disconnect switch and a ford style remote solenoid so the starter cable isn’t fused or hot all the time and the rest of the positive battery cable including the alternator charging cable and ignition supply voltage would all be properly fused going forward. I was just curious if anyones done it on here and where you put the junction block for the positive cable to attach to the rest of the battery voltage circuits. 

[jft69z]

M.A.D. electrical makes a kit & has some good info regarding it.

Someplace else I saw mentioned not using a remote solenoid if you have EFI. Could cause a spike that smokes the ECM? Maybe a suppression diode would be needed. I know I had to put one on my snow plow solenoid per a TSB to help with the spikes.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

[70MC402]

Good to know! At this point I have no plans of converting to EFI but glad I know that ahead of time if I do trunk mount the battery. 
 

My question is more how has anyone mounted the junction block where the battery cable to the rest of the positive voltage circuits- the alternator charging cable, the ignition switch supply circuit, electric fan supply voltage.

[714024SPEED]

I have something like that in my Pro Street Firebird. I have the positive battery cable from the master discount switch in the back of the car to a bulk head in the firewall(ran cable inside the car) I then used that bulkhead to power up a fuse block under the dash that powers up my fuel pump,MSD,Fans and all needed relays. Don't know if your going to race the car but by the rules the master switch in the back must kill all power to the car.

[70MC402]

Yep the way I had drawn out wiring it would be rear mount battery in a moroso box, vented to the outside of the car, from the negative i was going to weld a stud to the frame and bolt it on there, probably a section of 1/0 cable. The positive side would be a bit more tricky, from the battery it’ll attach to a master disconnect, with an extension rod ran out through the trunk near the bumper/tail lamp. From the disconnect it would go to the ford solenoid. The switched side going to the starter with another 1/0 cable, and the starter solenoid would be jumper down there, so only one wire headed down that way, ran inside the car to the firewall then punched through with a heavy duty grommet. Since it’s a starter cable it would not be fused but for safety it would have the ford style solenoid that only makes it hot when cranking, like the MAD electrical solenoid. 
 

On the constant hot side of the ford style solenoid would attach like a 1 or 2AWG wire with a 150-175 amp fuse, it’s fused this high because I’m converting from a 10DN alternator to a 12SI 100 amp from power master. But that will be ran inside the car as well up to either the inside or outside of the firewall, to a “buss bar distribution block” style junction block. This will power the electric fan which has its own fuse, the Alternator which won’t be fused other than the 150-175 at the back, and the rest of the stock battery supply wiring for the horn relay, and all the power to the fuse block. I’ll run a new wire from the ignition switch harness connector back to that ford solenoid for engine crank signal.

 

I’m just not sure where I want to put that junction block. If I go outside the firewall I was thinking to keep it out of sight and clean looking by putting over by the E brake mount as I have wilwood disc brakes in the rear with no e brake setup and that assembly has been removed. I also have the stock 11 inch brake booster and was going to call around to Leed and Wilwood to see if a dual diaphragm 7 or 8 inch will provide enough stopping power to stop my 4000 lb boat while taking up less engine bay room/firewall space.