Crom Cruach Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 Is this the vacuum advance line and the TCS at the bottom of the attached photo, sitting on the valve cover? and does it look setup correctly? Idle is rough when the car is cold, then again it’s 2° Celsius here today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 The cold will do that, but so will leaks in the line. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace them. Where does the line exiting the top of the picture lead ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 Those look correct. 2 questions though. 1- The open vacuum port on the carb, by the choke, is it open at all times or does the air cleaner vacuum line go there? 2- more of an observation than a question. The vacuum line for the modulator, by the vacuum advance on the distributor connected to the intake manifold could be hooked up better. Possible vacuum leak with the angles the rubber hose has to make. The running ruff on start up could be the 2 things I observed or possibly the choke itself needing some adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 17 minutes ago, MC1of80 said: Those look correct. 2 questions though. 1- The open vacuum port on the carb, by the choke, is it open at all times or does the air cleaner vacuum line go there? 2- more of an observation than a question. The vacuum line for the modulator, by the vacuum advance on the distributor connected to the intake manifold could be hooked up better. Possible vacuum leak with the angles the rubber hose has to make. The running ruff on start up could be the 2 things I observed or possibly the choke itself needing some adjustment. 1. That is connected with a rubber hose to a point under the air cleaner - is that correct? 2. out of my league as I don’t know what some of these parts are you mentioned. Do you mean the sharp Y connection that looks a bit bodged? Close up below… I have a Haynes manual on order, I really need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 The little cylinder at the "y" connection is a temp. controlled valve that only allows for vacuum advance once the engine is warm. If it's failed, you won't get any vacuum to the distributor. The modulator lines are the two coming out of the intake manifold between the carb and distributor, and they look a little aged too. If you're not going completely stock, you may want to consider going to an "HEI" ignition system. They're lower maintenance and less prone to the effects of humidity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 I meant to say that you won't get full advance if the cylinder has failed, just the vacuum advance. Not the actual electrical advance as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 The fitting coming out of the intake manifold, behind the carb, in front of the distributor and coil. The rubber lines angles could be causing a vacuum leak. The vacuum port off of the carb of which I speak, is approximately 3" towards the front of the car, on the passenger side, in front of the "y" in the hoses of which you speak. Should be plugged off if the small hose from the air cleaner does not go there. As far as converting to an HEI or electronic ignition I highly recommend a pertronix flame thrower conversion. I have it in my "Barn Find" and other cars with impeccable results! Highly recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 8, 2022 Share Posted January 8, 2022 Does the Pertronix system still incorporate a coil ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71MonteCarloMD Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 48 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Does the Pertronix system still incorporate a coil ??? Yes, still use the coil as it retain stock look if you want that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 Here it is installed on my 71 402 "Barn Find" the coil, and electronic conversion in the distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 Gold, thanks guys, on the PerTronix site now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 2 hours ago, Scott S. said: The cold will do that, but so will leaks in the line. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace them. Where does the line exiting the top of the picture lead ? Scott, do you mean the line that starts from the ’T’ coming out the front of the carb, and is secured to another line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71MonteCarloMD Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 I got Pertronix Ignitor III and replaced it with the point, runs well! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 17 hours ago, Crom Cruach said: Scott, do you mean the line that starts from the ’T’ coming out the front of the carb, and is secured to another line? Yes. Does it connect to the flapper valve in the air cleaner snorkel ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 7 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Yes. Does it connect to the flapper valve in the air cleaner snorkel ? The passenger side goes to the flapper valve, and the driver side goes to the fuel (pump?) at the very front of the car. what happens with the vacuum hoses when you go full electronic like the PerTronix Flame-Thrower - disconnect the lot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 The fuel pump is on the passenger's side of the engine, under the "generator".. lol So the line goes to a can sitting on the fender well ? That would be the fuel return line.... Early emission control thingy. You can delete this if you're going to switch to header exhaust type systems. You'll still need the basic vacuum lines on any system. One for timing advance, on the front of the carb, one for crankcase venting. Big one on the front. Big one on the back is for the power brakes, and the two off the manifold behind the carb are for the transmission and A.C. controls. If you decide to go with an "open air" intake system, the port on the passenger's side will need to be plugged as well. I've never personally used a PerTronix, always found that the HEI system was a cheaper and easier swap, and there are lots of companies making parts for it. But that's just me..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crom Cruach Posted January 9, 2022 Author Share Posted January 9, 2022 Yeah I was looking at an open element cleaner allright! I was initially thinking of restoration, but I might actually try to wake up the 350 with reversible modifications. One criteria I want to keep is the ability to use regular unleaded, as high-octane is hard to find here and I don’t want to fiddle around with additives. I believe that limits my compression to something like under 9:1 but I haven’t really looked into it yet. Maybe that’s for another post. it’s very addictive! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 And it isn't cheap !!! lol Premium fuel around here is about $ 1.75/liter There are dozens of ways to wake up a 350, Ignition, carbs vs. fuel injection, rear differential gears and overdrive transmissions and torque converters..... Depending on what you want to spend, and the availability of parts. A factory 350 won't do much more than about 4800 rpm's, but getting it to breathe better is always a plus. Once you get all the bugs worked out, ie. new fluids and filters, new rubber lines, maybe some plugs, wires and points, (if you're staying with the original ignition system for now), you'll see some improvements. But odds are pretty good you've got a differential ratio that's meant for good mileage, which will keep you from getting any real acceleration. Any idea of what that might be ?? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 9, 2022 Share Posted January 9, 2022 Another thing you might want to look into is re jetting your Q jet carb. Montelishi spent most of her life close to sea level, so when I got her out here I found that I could barely keep her running, and you could actually see the fuel dripping out of the exhaust tips due to the change in elevation. (2500 ft. above sea level). Just something you could check up on.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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