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Removing vinyl top Q's...


JP_AstroMan

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Hey folks...my '72 Monte is showing signs of rust by way of lumps in the original vinyl top. I realize people are going to give me the worst case scenario by default without me even asking...however...I am going to remove it so the metal can breathe asap. Planning to fix the rust and paint the top. Questions: what is the best product for removing old factory glue? And then my most important question- until I learn to do body work myself (can't afford body shop work), what is the best way to slow down the rust until I learn to fix it properly? Should I just spray some rust inverter on the bubbles? Maybe knock them down with sanding and then rust inverter?

I'll post pictures asap.

 

 

 

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It's best to see what you got after you remove the top. As far as removing the glue I think people just sand it off with a da or electric sander but someone else will chime in for sure. Body work is a pain for sure but can be very rewarding when it's done but do it right for sure. I did all mine and it came out alright but far from perfect but looks great from 15 feet or so and in pictures. Good luck with it look up some videos on it.

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I haven't cleaned any of the glue off yet. Not sure how to go about it yet. But I don't see any rust that has gone through. Not even close really. Most of the rust color is actually brown colored glue.

So my ultimate plan is to be done with vinyl. I love painted roofs on these cars. 

I need to remove the trim around the front and rear windows. Is the trim holding the windows in?

 

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3 hours ago, JP_AstroMan said:

 

So my ultimate plan is to be done with vinyl. I love painted roofs on these cars. 

 

 

20220216_125559.jpg

Frankie,

If you like the look of the contrast that a vinyl top creates but don't like the issues caused by a vinyl top what you could do and still stay somewhat factory correct is to go with a two-tone painted roof.  My 70 Monte is an original two-tone painted car and the two-tone really looks sharp.  Many people when looking at it assume it is a vinyl roof car.. A two tone painted car uses the exact same trim as the vinly roof car but the difference the area inside the trim is painted rather than having a vinyl roof.

rob

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It's going to be a tough decision as to whether I will keep the trim and two tone it or do all the work to delete the trim holes and paint the whole car black (my dream Monte is triple black).

If anyone knows the best way to get all this glue off, I'm all ears.

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4 hours ago, JP_AstroMan said:

If anyone knows the best way to get all this glue off, I'm all ears.

3M makes adhesive removers, that may work. I haven't tried it on your particular application but may be worth looking. They offer various types, including a citrus based aerosol one that seems to get good reviews. I used something similar when I was removing 50+ year old undercoating recently with good results (as well as wire wheels and abrasive fiber discs on an angle grinder).

Google 3M adhesive remover, that should steer you in a good direction. 

For general adhesive removal around the shop I'll usually use brake cleaner, or DuPont pre-cleaner for body work (basically a Prep-Sol type of product). In your case, with all that dried on glue, those would require you always keep it wet to loosen it up. I tried those with the undercoating with fair results, but was pleasantly surprised that the citrus aerosol cleaner worked good, and stayed wet without constantly requiring re-application. Either way, it's sure to be a crappy job.

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29 minutes ago, JP_AstroMan said:

I found some sort of rubber wheel that goes on your drill and magically removes adhesive. Has great reviews on Amazon. Waiting for it to arrive.

 

Be careful with the rubber wheel. If you hit a hard spot or trim rivit you may take a chunk out of the wheel. 

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37 minutes ago, JP_AstroMan said:

I found some sort of rubber wheel that goes on your drill and magically removes adhesive. Has great reviews on Amazon. Waiting for it to arrive.

 

It'll take forever too.

Good for stuff like the double sided tape they use to attach trip pieces to the body nowadays.

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The citrus spray stuff Joe offered does the trick, may have to use a gasket scraper to get the worst off. It will loosen up that glue for sure. Check Eastwood products for it. Your car, I'd keep the vinyl top,that is what makes the car. It's like a good fitting tuxedo, don't over complicate it. The colors are off the chart ( with those wheels). Fix what needs to be done. May have remove headliner and cover up rust. There is a product called rust bullet I used on all my areas where I didn't want to sandblast. This stuff works great, seals out the rust and you can paint over it if need to. The reason you're top gave up the ghost is they never sealed up the top of these cars. If it was painted/sealed up on top, us guys with the vinyl top would still have it. I know it looks pretty bad, but we have all seen worse. If you're taking out the back window I have a great upgrade to keep that rear window from rotting out again. I'd take a good look at the area above the windshield, that's a good area for rust ( pin holes) to start. post-259-0-93319100-1480263543_thumb.jpg

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You make a good argument, 420. So you think that light green on dark green was a good combo? 

There is definitely surface rust at the top of the windshield. Probably need to yank it and the rear. Well, on a positive I also recently removed the original headliner that a mouse destroyed. Looks like replacing it will be easy with the windows out.

So check this out folks- I got WAGON FEVER and just bought a 1969 Pontiac Lemans wagon today. Mega fixer upper but will be a blast. I love these cars with wide tires all around, lowered a little, just a total future hotrod. Coming all the way from Tucson. Has a 400 in it that I will pull and add HP to.

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