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Cam replacement.


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I am changing the cam in the 350 engine. I have not started as of yet but I was trying to put a plan together. I was originally going to remove the block and do the change over on an engine stand. Removing the radiator is  problem but I have working a/c and was not going to remove the condenser. Now I'm wondering of there is enough room to change the cam if I leave the block in. Trying to save a little time. Of course when trying to save time it always seems to cost more time.  Does anyone know if I would have enough room with the radiator removed and the condenser still in place if I can remove and replace the cam with ease. Appreciate any feed back.  

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I can't speak for the cam Tom , but I've pulled my 350 engine without draining the AC or removing the hood…. I'm sure other more experienced members will be able to help on the cam removal, but I'm suspecting it can be done.  My personal opinion would be to pull the engine. There are so many variables and minor things that could go wrong. 

Ed

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Plenty room if you remove radiator. Are you going hydraulic roller? If not , still need the high zinc content in oil. I run Valvoline Racing oil(20-50), no issues with wiping lobes off hydraulic cams. The new 427 BBC has a hydraulic roller in it. Getting a new cam could take a little time, things are back ordered right now. The other way is to pull it, leaving radiator in and do a gasket kit on the engine. No leaks, and can freshen up paint on motor.post-259-0-06116300-1484180397_thumb.jpg

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I did not go with the roller lifters. I purchased the top engine kit. It came with the cam, timing chains and gears, cylinder heads complete, air gap intake manifold and gaskets. I went with that just because everything is matched so there is no guess work. The only variable I am slightly concerned with is the height of the air cleaner after installation. That air gap is higher than I thought it would be. I still don't think its going to be an issue but I haven't made any rear measurements yet. Of course nothing is torn down yet either. I appreciate the input. I am trying to have the car ready for a show in June and I overbooked my time like a dummy. 

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I was using the Edlebrock performer and switched over to the Edlebrock EPS squarebore and the thicker gasket. Height was an issue,, but a thinner air filter solved my problem.. You can also lower the filter by changing the lower plate that fits over the carb. I puchased mine from a local performance store.. 

 

 

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That works. I don't have a really high air cleaner at the moment but if I need to change it to cure the problem I'm fine with that 

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I have an RPM air gap, 1 inch spacer, Holley 950hp and stock air cleaner (Camaro style on my big block and NO hood clearance issues. 

I had a 350 with performer (no rpm made yet, lol) 4" spacer, Holley 600 and 3" air filter with dropped base under the hood of my 1st Monte Carlo. Back in 86'. Lol

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Because the Edelbrock carb has a different configuration than the Q jet, you'll have to watch for clearances under the air cleaner as well. I wound up buying a custom made base..... But a 1/2" spacer works too. A 2"-2 1/2" element is as big as you can go with the filter. 

But seeing as the Monte Carlo has the longest hood out there, replacing the cam shouldn't require pulling the engine. 

Good luck with your cam swap. :)

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52 minutes ago, Scott S. said:

Because the Edelbrock carb has a different configuration than the Q jet, you'll have to watch for clearances under the air cleaner as well. I wound up buying a custom made base..... But a 1/2" spacer works too. A 2"-2 1/2" element is as big as you can go with the filter. 

But seeing as the Monte Carlo has the longest hood out there, replacing the cam shouldn't require pulling the engine. 

Good luck with your cam swap. :)

Luckily, I had no clearance problem with the drop plate under the air filter… I'm using an HEI distributer and it clears with a half inch to spare.   With the MSD ignition, clearance was really wide, but I had to move the coil. Didn't care for the MSD ignition anyway… 

Ed

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I was looking at the specs for the height of the two intakes. The old one and the new air gap looks to be about an inch difference. I don't have any clearance concerns now. I do have a inch spacer between the carb on the intake. I will imagine I won't need that anymore anyhow. I appreciate all the feed back. I am always impressed by the information that is out there. I would rather hear from someone that has been there, done that. 

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20 hours ago, Tom Carter said:

I was looking at the specs for the height of the two intakes. The old one and the new air gap looks to be about an inch difference. I don't have any clearance concerns now. I do have a inch spacer between the carb on the intake. I will imagine I won't need that anymore anyhow. I appreciate all the feed back. I am always impressed by the information that is out there. I would rather hear from someone that has been there, done that. 

And some of us even got T-shirts..... lol

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As others have stated, you can remove the camshaft after removing the radiator. I actually have changed one with the radiator still installed and only removed the fan shroud. It was a 350, 3 core radiator and the alignment pin for the timing chain sprocket just touched the radiator. 

As far as a spacer, if it's an open style spacer, use it! The rpm intake makes even more power and torque with an open spacer. Don't believe me? Check out the engine masters episode that does a test on intake and spacer combos. Although I had already known this many, many years ago from dragstrip testing it still was an interesting episode. 

Also recommend a Holley carb as opposed to an Edelbrock carb. 

 

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I'm using the updated Edelbrock carb. I put it on my car and I noticed an instant pedal response difference.  Its the AVS series. It feels like a old style fuel injector throttle body set up. I know there are a lot of people loyal to Holley and I not going to challenge that. However, I really like the way the AVS works. 

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7 minutes ago, Tom Carter said:

I'm using the updated Edelbrock carb. I put it on my car and I noticed an instant pedal response difference.  Its the AVS series. It feels like a old style fuel injector throttle body set up. I know there are a lot of people loyal to Holley and I not going to challenge that. However, I really like the way the AVS works. 

Yep, totally agree. Never used a Holley and I'm sure it's a great Carb too… But the Edlebrock works really well for me. I'm using them on all of my older cars… 

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13 minutes ago, EVC said:

Yep, totally agree. Never used a Holley and I'm sure it's a great Carb too… But the Edlebrock works really well for me. I'm using them on all of my older cars… 

I have edelbrocks on my 88 and my 70. 

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1 minute ago, Dtret said:

I have edelbrocks on my 88 and my 70. 

Dennis,

I just switched my old performer intake to the 2701 performer square bore and it made a world of difference… I plan on taking my 63 Bonneville out of the barn soon and hoping to find an Edlebrock intake for the 389. From my experience the Edlebrock carbs work best with the edlebrock intakes without all the adapters, etc. 

Ed

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6 hours ago, Tom Carter said:

I did just buy a new set of Mickey Tompson valve covers. They are Holley. Does that count?

Holley owns just about everything out there..... It's just a matter of tme.

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ive got a blue print small block engine with dual plane air gap intake 2 inch spacer edelbrock carb 3 inch air filter no fitment problem

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So all the worry was for nothing. I was able to remove the old cam and install the new with absolutely no issues. Next is to replace the oem heads with the new aluminum set that came with the top engine kit. Check the pushrod length and start the reassembly. I was seriously considering replacing my starter while its easy to do.  I keep looking at the gear reduction starters on Summit Racing. I like the thought of the clearance between the headers and the starter assembly. Plus the crank power is much more. Any thoughts before I pull the trigger?

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