Jump to content

Cam replacement.


Recommended Posts

I absolutely used assembly lube. I would love it if your theory was correct. I doesn't cost much to just dump the oil and change the filter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/13/2022 at 2:26 PM, Tom Carter said:

I absolutely used assembly lube. I would love it if your theory was correct. I doesn't cost much to just dump the oil and change the filter. 

How'd you make out did you try the oil change? Did it work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have my car out to the shop in Marietta. I wont be back until Saturday afternoon. I noticed the oil pan is leaking anyway so I am going to yank it out and get a good look at it. I haven't put much running time on it so I want to make sure there isn't any long term damage I need to address before its too late. My plan is to pull it, drain the oil and pull the oil pan. I need to reseal it anyway. That way I can get a look if there are any metal partials in the oil or pan. I am also thinking I may have a new lifter problem. I adjusted the rockers a few times and could not get rid of some noise in the valve train. The kit I got gave me three different sets of intake gaskets for some reason. They look to be similar so its not like they all have different thickness. no sure..Anyway, I want to play it safe so I don't do any damage. I am hoping the assembly lube in the filter is the problem. Hope for the best and expect the worst. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok...update. I did change the filter and spin the oil pump. To my surprise I got oil pressure restored. So I drained the oil and found  a lot of metal  in the oil. That did not make me happy of course. The decision was already made to pull the engine for further inspection. I am very glad I did. I pulled the oil pan and one of the crank caps. The crank bearings really didn't look to bad but were scored. I removed the remaining caps and found the crank was scored. Replacement of the crank and connecting rod bearings isn't really an question in my eyes. I had the crank sent to a machine shop for inspection and they told me the crank needs to be ground down and over sized bearings used. I elected to by a new crank instead. New crank, new crank bearings, new connecting rod bearings.  The block is at a machine shop now getting dipped and new cam bearings replaced. At this time it is now an over haul.  The good news is Summit is standing behind there products. The sent me new cam and lifters. Sent me the overhaul gasket kit. They didn't charge me for that. The did charge me for the other parts needed but gave me a discount. So far the situation sucks but with the fuel prices the way they are if I was going to pick a year to be doing this I imagine this is the year to do it. Get pissed though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I spoke with the machine shop. His theory is that because I didn't preload the lifters (soak in oil over night and pump up) some lifters pumped up partly. I heard lifter noise when I did  the cam break in procedure. I loosened and reset all the lifters and then took it for the test drive. that is when all the problems happened. if the lifters pumped up completely it would be too tight and then destroy the cam...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom, Sorry to hear about the problems with the cam swap.Wished we could have talked more about install and initial adjustment on those rocker arms. So, now you'll have a rebuilt motor after all this. I agree what better year to do it all is right now. I sold my motor and overdrive transmission and replacing with a BBC427 and Turbo 400 (modified). The 355 sbc is still in the car, and I hope to have it back together soon(dash is still out). Hydraulic cams are very particular when it comes to break-in procedures . I've been through to many to count and learned something new every time. I have a distributer made -up to run oil pump while adjusting rocker arms (very important).Can't believe lifters did not come with instructions to bath on oil overnight. If you need anything please PM me. I'm thinking it will be right this time.post-259-0-93319100-1480263543_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The instructions I read stated to install the new lifters dry of oil and use assembly lube on the lifter bottoms and such. Just touch the push rod to be the bottom of the rocker and then do the half turn to set the preload. Any time I replaced lifters I always soaked over night. I did do some research prior and I did find other article's stating the same thing.  I am kicking myself for not doing that this time. I can say I will soak the new set over night and pump them up on the bench to make sure they are not junk. after all that when I disassembled the block I did find three lifters that never really pumped up. I am confident I will make this right. just killing part of the season.  I have a turbo 400 tranny now. What did you do to modify that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not got all my info. on Transmission  yet. I do know I have a Lower 1st gear ,and parts from a 4L80 trans. installed in it. It also came with a front billet torque converter(2,400 stall). I'll get all the info. when my arm is back to 100%. Just started Physical Therapy . post-259-0-06116300-1484180397_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

OK. I drove my car home from the garage I work in last night. I am pleased to say it ran well. Ran into a few small problems before my first test drive but they were very minor.  I found the engine runs good if I have the timing set at about 10 degrees. I did adjust the carb before I took it out. I set the vacuum advance on the ported side of the carb. I keep reading that I should be using the manifold vacuum vs the ported side. I was using the ported side before but the new cam and heads may require more. I am using an hei system distributor. I planned on retiming and trying the manifold side tonight when I get home. I was wondering what the group opinion is. I trust you guys a hell of alot more than some of the other things I read. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have good vacuum  while running. not great at idle. not a problem but I feel like the brake pedal is stiffer than it should be. It seems to start good at 8 degrees but was sluggish. I bumped the timing to 10 degrees and the performance increase but the idle isn't great. not bad just not great. I will be there Thursday...with the car. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad to hear it's on the road again. I've always ran on manifold vacuum. Just check for any vacuum leaks before a long trip ( tends to lean out motor). 10° is a good place to start. Bring idle up around 2500-3000 with advance vacuum hooked up, and if you have a degree timing light, it should be about 34-36° on light and setting at 0° on timing tab.I'm sure one of the guys will have one there. Try to get the best vacuum while adjusting carb too. That's where you'll find a snappy throttle response. I can't remember what you're cam is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Distributor vacuum advance, if you are using one, should be hooked up to ported vacuum. When you use manifold (direct) vacuum the vacuum advance is fully advanced at idle. 

Try 12 degrees and ported vacuum. Adjust idle as needed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my light does not have the degree option. I need to update it. I tried to put a different harmonic balancer on but the shaft on the balancer was too long and it didn't line the pulleys right. I want to get some timing tape and put it on the original balancer.  the cam is a summit cam SUM-1107

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So update. I was able to go to the Syracuse Nationals with the car (running). I am sorry to say I have only put about 70 miles on it since the rebuild. I actually drove it to work yesterday to try and get some miles put on it. The more the engine is ran the better is seems to run. I want to take the advice of MC1of80 and change the vacuum to ported and set the timing at 12 but at the moment the engine is running well. I haven't pushed if of course so I am trying to keep my foot out of the carburetor. Trying to keep the rpms under 2500 until the engine has properly run in. My wife asked me to take her out this Sunday and give it a spin. Weather permitting I am sure it's going to happen. As always I appreciate all the input and advise given. Hope all are having a good summer.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I stopped by your place to look at a truck on the lot, it wasn't what I wanted  was going to stop in but was busy. Were leaving tomorrow morning for 10 days in the mountains. Glad the car is running good, all the time we spend together at the nationals I never did get to hear it run lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...