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I absolutely used assembly lube. I would love it if your theory was correct. I doesn't cost much to just dump the oil and change the filter. 

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On 6/13/2022 at 2:26 PM, Tom Carter said:

I absolutely used assembly lube. I would love it if your theory was correct. I doesn't cost much to just dump the oil and change the filter. 

How'd you make out did you try the oil change? Did it work?

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I have my car out to the shop in Marietta. I wont be back until Saturday afternoon. I noticed the oil pan is leaking anyway so I am going to yank it out and get a good look at it. I haven't put much running time on it so I want to make sure there isn't any long term damage I need to address before its too late. My plan is to pull it, drain the oil and pull the oil pan. I need to reseal it anyway. That way I can get a look if there are any metal partials in the oil or pan. I am also thinking I may have a new lifter problem. I adjusted the rockers a few times and could not get rid of some noise in the valve train. The kit I got gave me three different sets of intake gaskets for some reason. They look to be similar so its not like they all have different thickness. no sure..Anyway, I want to play it safe so I don't do any damage. I am hoping the assembly lube in the filter is the problem. Hope for the best and expect the worst. 

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ok...update. I did change the filter and spin the oil pump. To my surprise I got oil pressure restored. So I drained the oil and found  a lot of metal  in the oil. That did not make me happy of course. The decision was already made to pull the engine for further inspection. I am very glad I did. I pulled the oil pan and one of the crank caps. The crank bearings really didn't look to bad but were scored. I removed the remaining caps and found the crank was scored. Replacement of the crank and connecting rod bearings isn't really an question in my eyes. I had the crank sent to a machine shop for inspection and they told me the crank needs to be ground down and over sized bearings used. I elected to by a new crank instead. New crank, new crank bearings, new connecting rod bearings.  The block is at a machine shop now getting dipped and new cam bearings replaced. At this time it is now an over haul.  The good news is Summit is standing behind there products. The sent me new cam and lifters. Sent me the overhaul gasket kit. They didn't charge me for that. The did charge me for the other parts needed but gave me a discount. So far the situation sucks but with the fuel prices the way they are if I was going to pick a year to be doing this I imagine this is the year to do it. Get pissed though

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So I spoke with the machine shop. His theory is that because I didn't preload the lifters (soak in oil over night and pump up) some lifters pumped up partly. I heard lifter noise when I did  the cam break in procedure. I loosened and reset all the lifters and then took it for the test drive. that is when all the problems happened. if the lifters pumped up completely it would be too tight and then destroy the cam...

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Hi Tom, Sorry to hear about the problems with the cam swap.Wished we could have talked more about install and initial adjustment on those rocker arms. So, now you'll have a rebuilt motor after all this. I agree what better year to do it all is right now. I sold my motor and overdrive transmission and replacing with a BBC427 and Turbo 400 (modified). The 355 sbc is still in the car, and I hope to have it back together soon(dash is still out). Hydraulic cams are very particular when it comes to break-in procedures . I've been through to many to count and learned something new every time. I have a distributer made -up to run oil pump while adjusting rocker arms (very important).Can't believe lifters did not come with instructions to bath on oil overnight. If you need anything please PM me. I'm thinking it will be right this time.post-259-0-93319100-1480263543_thumb.jpg

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The instructions I read stated to install the new lifters dry of oil and use assembly lube on the lifter bottoms and such. Just touch the push rod to be the bottom of the rocker and then do the half turn to set the preload. Any time I replaced lifters I always soaked over night. I did do some research prior and I did find other article's stating the same thing.  I am kicking myself for not doing that this time. I can say I will soak the new set over night and pump them up on the bench to make sure they are not junk. after all that when I disassembled the block I did find three lifters that never really pumped up. I am confident I will make this right. just killing part of the season.  I have a turbo 400 tranny now. What did you do to modify that?

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I have not got all my info. on Transmission  yet. I do know I have a Lower 1st gear ,and parts from a 4L80 trans. installed in it. It also came with a front billet torque converter(2,400 stall). I'll get all the info. when my arm is back to 100%. Just started Physical Therapy . post-259-0-06116300-1484180397_thumb.jpg

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