Batman Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 i read alot of people have made the th350 to 2004r swap. most said drive shaft went rite in.from what i can find the 350 output is 27spline the 2004r is 26.did they change yoke? im having trouble finding one with 26 spline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankOC Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 I'm about to do this swap myself. Based on what I've read, a 2004r is 27 spline(?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 200r4's and th350's both use a 27 spline output shaft.... And the 2004r is basically the same casing as a th350, excepting for the extra re enforcement at the tail shaft, which can cause contact issues depending on which yoke you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 I did my 350-200r4 swap a few years ago and dont recall needing to change the yoke out. I popped the driveshaft right back in. That's the beauty of the 200r4, it has the same dimensions as the stock th350 and why I chose it over the 700r4 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 Ditto on the swap. No difference in driveshaft length. As Ace Ventura once said, "Like a Glove" . Going to miss my O.D. Now BBC and Turbo 400, going Custom Clone... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batman Posted November 9, 2022 Author Share Posted November 9, 2022 here is what i figured out.yoke and trany output are 27 spline.my problem is i have a new slip yoke on my driveshaft and i dont know why but it wont go on tailshaft. so i found a used yoke and it slipped rite on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted November 9, 2022 Share Posted November 9, 2022 Glad you got it sorted. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobW Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Questions for those who have done this 200r4 swap. Did you go with the lockup converter conversion? Does it make a major difference? From what I've seen online, the bracket for the TV cable seems similar, if not identical, to the 350 kickdown cable backet. True? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I started with a non-lockup and didn't like it, so I changed to a lockup converter. The TV cable is completely different but I dont recall what the bracket differences are. Might as well just get the bracket as they are inexpensive. (My bracket may have come with the trans. I don't remember because it has been years) Some of the issues I ran into with the lockup converter are all centered around the shift point where it goes into lockup mode. I tried a vacuum only module to control the lockup point but when running the AC it would "hunt" for the lockup instead of smoothly transitioning to lockup. From there I tried a mechanical lockup device that went strictly by vehicle speed to determine the lockup point which was difficult to set properly and had other issues from the start. I finally settled on a unit that is adjustable and senses both vehicle speed (at the speedo cable) and vacuum for automatic operation and also has a button for manual lockup engagement. The whole ordeal was a pain and took a long time to sort out. Truth be told it still isn't just the way I want it but works okay enough to drive and enjoy. Maybe someone has had different experiences but since I switched my non-lockup trans to a lockup converter I may have created my own problems. Don't take this post as a complaint... I love my 200r4 trans. I just wanted to share my experiences with my particular trans. I feel that had I ordered the lockup trans the whole thing would have been painless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I went with the electric (ignition powered) lock up with all the workings built into the transmission. A "switched" power source was also recommended, due to voltage flux during engine start up can damage the internal selenoid. It works well, the only issue I discovered was the non disengagement when decelerating in overdrive. The transmission tends to surge and lug right around the lock up point when there's less torque being applied to the converter, so simply manually downshifting solves that problem. I've asked a couple transmission guys if this is normal, and the consensus tends to lean towards setting higher overdrive shift points. Or just don't do "stop and go" driving in overdrive. If I remember right, early Chev/G.M. operator's manuals (78-86) mention this issue and can void the warranty if damage was caused in this way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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