halogrinder Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Well, I suppose we aught to get going on this. This is my dad's MC- he's had it since the 70's (second owner) and has been sitting since +- 1987ish. So, it's gonna get torn down and cleaned up. Follow along- and help answer some questions, because I know I'll have some. First thing to do was get it down to Houston from Northern California. We did that in July. Then get it out of the trailer and into the shop. FOR THE MOST PART it's an original car with about 68K on it. FOR THE MOST PART it's going to stay really close to stock. Mods will be simple stuff. Shocks, Brake pads, Probably do a hydraulic roller cam to get rid of the tappets and need for high zinc oil, maybe a few other things here and there. We're not going bananas on it- It's gonna be a driver. So- let's begin. The keys were lost, so I yanked the back seat and got the trunk open by unbolting the latch. pulled the column apart and popped the ignition lock out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 It's a relatively unmolested vehicle. Granted, my dad was young and worked on it, so I have some tomfoolery to unravel, and also fix up. Not a big deal. Neat option it has is the fiber optic turn signal thingies and the tail light indicator in the back glass. I'll work on the fiber optic stuff later- it's falling apart and the rodents have chewed the lines apart. Underneath is what I typically expect for an old car. Grime, spiders, yuck and wasps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 The exhaust is gonna get changed out to something with some noise like flowmasters or something. Maybe cutouts- that's up to him. The transmission torque converter apparently is bad- I'll be rebuilding it anyways. Probably throw a shift kit in it. Maybe a trans cooler. Oil pan has a boo boo on it, probably replace the pan, or TIG weld it up once it's off if I can beat it back into shape. The inner fender liners were all beat up and broken, so I cut them out. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 I bought a rotisserie to put the body on, so my first line of order was pull the front clip, and detrim the body. So I started working on that. The fiber optic turn signal doohickies on the fenders were really rotten in the pot metal, and just touching the little nuts broke the studs off. So, I'd like to source some new ones. I saw some online, but they are 3 dot for chevelle, and these are two dot. Right fender was damaged before my dad got it, and it's got some yuck going on in the bottom- more than likely It'll get replaced. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 I stripped the engine wiring harness out of the core support and brought it over to the electrical fuse plug. Looks like I'll be doing some repairs, then a re-wrap and lay it back in. I'll be upgrading the battery cables to the starter and the frame/block for better pixie flow, along with perhaps upgrading the 10g wire that comes from the alternator (which is amazing it uses that solely for the whole car's charging system) The AC is there- it'll get refreshed with new hoses, evaporator, cross flow condenser and converted to 134A along with some performance enhancing tweaks to make it cool better. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 De-trimming this car is/was/has been fun. A lot of trim already is either dented/damaged or didn't make it when it was removed despite being careful. So, I'll try to save what I can, and replace what I have to. Found the build sheet (remains?) or whatever you call it- buck list? Stuck on the back seat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 The front glass came out pretty easily- and I noticed I'll need to do a little rust repair on the top trims. No big deal. When I went to take out the back glass, it came out with no tools (lol) so I have some work to do on the back window area. While I don't mind doing it, and am not scared of it- I wasn't excited to see it. The rear fiber optic piece was an artifact- as soon as I touched it- it literally crumbled away. The piece thats at the bottom of the glass- is that part of the trim that goes to the trunk seal? the panel that goes from the glass to the trunk? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 And now the un-fun part. Pulling the interior and dash. As expected its messssssssssy, dirty, and not fun. I had to manually power the windows to get them out. Need to do the rear quarter glass windows and regulators still. Got the headliner scraped out as best as possible, door cards, C/B/A pillars, now working on the dash. The steering column is being a PITA, and not wanting to separate at the joint near the booster. Will work on that more tomorrow. Dash needs a look-see, replace the ducting for the vents, vacuum lines, test and run the vacuum system on the bench to make sure it's all working, refurb the gauges, replace the burlwood stuff, fix the lighter, etc.etc. basically touch everything. oh, and evaporator/heater core/heater box assembly rebuild. All in all, the side and back glass i think is gonna make it- windshield is gonna get replaced due to pitting (and me being a dumbass cutting the antenna) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Getting right into itceh. There is a guy (company) that makes the window channels Belden is the name of the company. Makes the repair easier from what I hear. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Wow. That’s a lot. Great work. Nice car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Looks like a lot of work ahead of you Alex, but it's to be expected for a car that old. Nice pictures, and as mentioned before, we like a lot of them around here. As Steve mentioned, Belden is a place that may make your project a little easier. Poke around all sections of their site though, there's plenty of info there that will help you. https://www.rustreplace.com/home/1970-1972-monte-carlo https://www.beldenspeed.com/ 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 I knew of rustreplace- ill poke around on beldenspeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 waaaaait. belden is rustreplace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 5 minutes ago, halogrinder said: waaaaait. belden is rustreplace Yeah, it is 😄 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Nice documentation on the start of the project 🤘Nice big shop to work in too 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Oh yea welcome to the site too, that does look like a great shop you have to work in there. Looks like you know we do love pictures. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 12 Author Share Posted September 12 sheetmetal ordered. Continuing on today with dash and harness removal. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 13 Author Share Posted September 13 Dash is out, column is out, heater box is out, wiper assembly, vacuum pods and doors, and driver's seat is out. I basically need to get the passenger seat out, and the carpet/rubber deadening and firewall insulation out and it'll be shell (and I can finally clean this area up and put the stuff up in the container outside) Background- I'm a BMW master tech, and have worked on Euro cars for 24 years now. I'd rather do a euro dash than a domestic dash. There were multiple things I thought were sorta silly in their order of removal- like the Bowden cable that goes from the control head to the fresh air flap ( I think that was the one) on the heater box without any real way of removing it. the vacuum manifold with the little push pin things on the studs, and how those have to be removed- not because it didn't go with the dash-but because they wrapped around wiring and and whatnot that wouldn't allow it to come out. The driver's seat was a joy trying to power it and get the little rubber belt/oring thing (LOL!) that goes between the drive motor and the solenoid operated transmission to move the seat. What a trip figuring out how that all worked. the steering column had a column shift rod/bell crank assembly- which I thought was strange- It's a floor shift and that runs to the trans, I thought. I'll figure it out tomorrow when I pick it up to clean the mess underneath it. the dash needs some love. speakers need replacement. The brackets and under dash stuff- looks like it was zinc plated, or perhaps galvanized? I don't want to go through the trouble of re-plating everything like I did with the last build I just finished- So I was thinking of sand blasting and spray painting- but with what? galvanized coating, or grey paint? I need to sort out the column- I'd like to powder coat it, at least since it's in your face and touched all the time. No rust found that isn't just surface stuff on the front pans, which is nice. Rear has a little hole I'll fix when I can flip it on the rotisserie The door harnesses are interesting to me- the 10g wire for the window motors is wild. I'd like to test the vacuum system/head/pods before putting it back in- hopefully that's a do-able task. Same goes with the instrument cluster- I'm pulling it apart to refurb it anyways. I'd like to amp/bluetooth the radio- but then again it looks like 6x9's in the deck and those little 5" or whatever they were in the dash is the only noise it's gonna make. evaporator is really big. I wasn't expecting such a hefty girl in there. I've been half tempted to make some hose manifolds and suck it down to see if it'll hold vacuum- but I know better and should replace it so I dont' have to do the job again when the car is together. Hopefully it responds well to 134. All in all, good constructive day. I only had one real casualty- a broken stud off the firewall for the heater box. I'll weld a new one on. hopefully putting it back together again won't suck. I'll just take my time and figure out where everything goes one piece at a time. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 You’ll find that the assembly on the steering column is part of the locking mechanism that locks the transmission in park when the key is in the lock position. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 Welcome! And thanks for all the pix… you obviously have a hell of a project going, but well worth it seeing as it was your dads car, not to mention that she appears heavily optioned. Based on the Build “sheet” you recovered, it appears to be a Canadian built SS. And I’ll say it again… I envy you guys that have both the knowledge and the tools/facilities to make all this stuff look easy. I think that I speak for everyone here when I say we look forward to your continued progress and seeing pictures as it’s all happening. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 Great job on the updates and pictures, thank you! A few thoughts to some of your questions below: * The brackets and under dash stuff- looks like it was zinc plated, or perhaps galvanized? I don't want to go through the trouble of re-plating everything like I did with the last build I just finished- So I was thinking of sand blasting and spray painting- but with what? galvanized coating, or grey paint? Any silver paint, galv coat, or Eastwood silver type paint (Cad coat, bare steel replicator, etc) would work. * I'd like to test the vacuum system/head/pods before putting it back in- hopefully that's a do-able task. Easily do-able. I use a vacuum pump for A/C work to provide a vacuum source. * Same goes with the instrument cluster- I'm pulling it apart to refurb it anyways. If not tied to a factory type restoration, Dakota Digital RTX gauges are an excellent alternative. Look stock, but much more versatile and functional * evaporator is really big. I wasn't expecting such a hefty girl in there. I've been half tempted to make some hose manifolds and suck it down to see if it'll hold vacuum- but I know better and should replace it so I dont' have to do the job again when the car is together. Hopefully it responds well to 134. Since it's already out, it may be a good time to replace it with a modern, parallel flow replacement condenser & evaporator. They're designed to be more efficient with R134. Systems I've converted have much better, measured duct temps with the new parts, as opposed to the originals. Now is the time, plus they look original. Are you planning to use a factory style compressor, or a more modern Sanden type? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 13 Author Share Posted September 13 2 hours ago, jft69z said: Great job on the updates and pictures, thank you! A few thoughts to some of your questions below: * The brackets and under dash stuff- looks like it was zinc plated, or perhaps galvanized? I don't want to go through the trouble of re-plating everything like I did with the last build I just finished- So I was thinking of sand blasting and spray painting- but with what? galvanized coating, or grey paint? Any silver paint, galv coat, or Eastwood silver type paint (Cad coat, bare steel replicator, etc) would work. Probably galvanize coat them then, since i'm trying to keep them from corroding in the future * I'd like to test the vacuum system/head/pods before putting it back in- hopefully that's a do-able task. Easily do-able. I use a vacuum pump for A/C work to provide a vacuum source. The stinking cable that goes to the heater box that comes off the vacuum head was a PITA while the dash was sitting on my lap. but ya, similar to my older ford trucks with factory AC, I don't want to go chasing vacuum leaks and pods that won't'/don't work. * Same goes with the instrument cluster- I'm pulling it apart to refurb it anyways. If not tied to a factory type restoration, Dakota Digital RTX gauges are an excellent alternative. Look stock, but much more versatile and functional While I'm not opposed to replacing with a DD gauge set- (as long as it works) I'd rather just keep it stock. Probably replace the clock with a tachometer. I'm familiar with their products, and looked into doing one of their dashes in my 79 F250 crew cab that I coyote swapped- but ended up getting all the factory gauges working with that drivetrain with a little bit of thinking. * evaporator is really big. I wasn't expecting such a hefty girl in there. I've been half tempted to make some hose manifolds and suck it down to see if it'll hold vacuum- but I know better and should replace it so I dont' have to do the job again when the car is together. Hopefully it responds well to 134. Since it's already out, it may be a good time to replace it with a modern, parallel flow replacement condenser & evaporator. They're designed to be more efficient with R134. Systems I've converted have much better, measured duct temps with the new parts, as opposed to the originals. Now is the time, plus they look original. Are you planning to use a factory style compressor, or a more modern Sanden type? I know for SURE a crossflow condenser is going on the front- the original one has a pretty borked up spot on it under the bumper where something hit it, in it's past. Replace the lines (obviously), new/additional receiver/drier, and I'll have to start looking around for a cross flow evaporator. Compressor- The original big compressor is available, and I was thinking of going with it for originality/aesthetics to keep it looking original- but a newer Sanden type isn't off the table. I need to poke around and see what the pumping efficiency of the old compressor is vs a sanden to see if it'll match or not. If the sanden works better, it'll give me a better reason to replace it (besides it being 1/5 of the size lol) I have one of those on my Coyote paired with the largest condenser I could fit under the front grill, and a vintage air conversion in the cab. It works well once the sheet metal gets cooled down in the cab (which takes a while- more on that later), and once all the hot air in the cab is recycled I can get 36-38 out of the vents. see replies- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 3 hours ago, halogrinder said: see replies- * Galv coat would be fine, but anything covering it up will stop corrosion. * DD works GREAT, you'd love them. * If going thru the motions, get condenser and evaporator, matched set to work better. Sanden's are much better as far as efficiency, less horsepower to run, lighter, and won't leak out the front seal like the original A6's do. An alternative to that is a 'S6' compressor. They basically look like an old style, bolt in place with the factory brackets and hose manifolds, but have modern Sanden type internals (Nippon actually, the guy from Old Air told me recently. As you know, they're an OEM supplier, and quality is typically very good). If you want, I can find you links/info on the above parts. The place I use has a nice kit with everything in it, (evap, cond. compressor, brackets, drier, ald also includes the newer 'Barrier' hose for use with 134A). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halogrinder Posted September 13 Author Share Posted September 13 That'd be great, thanks. In the mean time, my shop has lost a leg of 480 3ph so today's work is essentially stopped. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 7 minutes ago, halogrinder said: That'd be great, thanks. In the mean time, my shop has lost a leg of 480 3ph so today's work is essentially stopped. Early out on a Friday, not too terrible. I'll get you the info later tonight, pressure washing all the concrete around here today. Been needing to do it for about 4 years now, but working on cars got in the way. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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