cny first gen 71 Posted September 24 Share Posted September 24 19 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Emission tests will be next...... If you don't already have them. NY has them but 25 years and older only need safety inspection annually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted September 25 Author Share Posted September 25 Ohio used to have statewide emissions inspections every other year in order to renew your registration (tags). But they found that they had zero impact on air quality, so they dropped em at the state level. Some counties still have them however. After 25 years, if you go thru the 1 time historic registration process, you're exempt from any inspections and exampt from annual registration renewal. But like I said, the trade off is you have to attest that the historical vehical is not your daily driver. You sign that you agree to only drive it to/from "club events" or for troubleshooting 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 My insurance policy has the same restrictions.... 6,000 miles annually. Pretty much the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted September 25 Share Posted September 25 1 hour ago, Scott S. said: My insurance policy has the same restrictions.... 6,000 miles annually. Pretty much the same thing. Some nefarious types would just disconnect the speedo cable 🤣 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 Or just find a suitable gear for the transmission drive end.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted September 27 Author Share Posted September 27 Swapped out the big alternator bracket for a tensioner. I think it's way cleaner and I love it 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 Interesting.... How is it for alternator stability and vibration ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 (edited) 20 hours ago, Scott S. said: Interesting.... How is it for alternator stability and vibration ?? Not sure yet...the remnants of Hurricane Helene are hanging out around Ohio and Indiana. Given there's a hurricane in town, she hasn't been out since I put the tensioner on. It has locknuts for both heim joint ends, so theoretically it should be pretty stout. With that said, the cam Blueprint uses is pretty lopey for a "mild street cam". With the urethane mounts she vibrates A LOT. My "locking" header bolts needed some retightening after the first few heat cycles. Not sure if this tensioner will fall into that same camp. She has a date with the exhaust shop in a few days once the weather clears. The shop is about 45 min away. I will post an update after I get her back and can check on everything. Edited September 28 by FairlyRandom 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 On a separate note, I'm seeing mixed opinions online, so I'm seeking advice from this group. I purchased some aluminum valve covers from Billet Specialties: https://www.billetspecialties.com/Store/Accessories/engine-accessories/valve-covers/small-block-chevy/item/streamline-small-block-chevy-95224/ and installation instructions don't exist. Their site is of no help either. The lip isn't flat like stamped steel valve covers. There are cast bosses that look almost like bolt spreaders/clamps that you'd use on steel covers. So, my question: do aluminum covers need spreaders or clamps like steel covers do? Given that aluminum is much stiffer than steel, and the bosses are already there and would possibly interfere with spreaders, I'm thinking maybe no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 It appears those cast bosses are pretty thick already. Doubtful an additional spreader will do anything at all, so I'd skip them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 The stamped steel covers tended to warp and the bolt holes will sink in if over tightened.... That's the only reason for the spreaders. Same theory as a washer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 Thanks guys. That was exactly what I was thinking. So, I went for it! I think they look great. The black and polished aluminum carry the same theme as the wheels, and match the air cleaner cover. I cut the plug wires way too short in my haste to get the engine running, so a new set is on the way. I installed the Moroso looms now to avoid having issues from loosening the covers and the gasket possibly coming unseated later. 1 loom can't fit with the air box in the way, so that bridge will be crossed when we come to it. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpcsgasp Posted September 29 Share Posted September 29 Looks real good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted September 30 Author Share Posted September 30 (edited) 14 hours ago, kpcsgasp said: Looks real good! Thanks! It's a bit grittier in real life ...the driver inner fender is aftermarket. It has a matte finish and the edges aren't as crisp. The passenger side actually appears to be factory - it's got a different texture and fits a lot tighter. But the passenger side is really beat up too. There are scuffs where an AC line was rubbing for 50+ years, and holes where that line had brackets. And the battery tray needs reinforced, it has shifted over the years and cracked the front of the inner fender. New repops might be next on the list, though I'm going to see what I think about sanding them both and spraying them with a new coat of satin black for ABS. And while the passenger side is out, I'm going to try my hand at a fix I saw online for cracked plastic using a soldering iron and staples to reinforce the repair. Aaaand while the passenger side is out, I will also most likely pull the AC box. Should I start a new thread in another section since that's not really engine anymore? Edited September 30 by FairlyRandom Spelling and other errors 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 20 minutes ago, FairlyRandom said: Shouldn't start a new thread in another section since that's not really engine anymore? Nah, you can keep it all here, it'll be in one place, sort of a running timeline of your progress. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 I couldn’t find the exact one I have it these work great for putting plastic back together. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted October 2 Author Share Posted October 2 (edited) On 9/21/2024 at 9:49 PM, Dtret said: ... what exhaust shop did you visit? Back Home Creations near the river in Hamilton. https://backhomecreationllc.com/ Rob is a 1 man show, and his work is great, and his prices are reasonable. Got my Monte in at 9:30 am and was ready to pick up at 3. Went with 2 1/2” full stainless with an X-pioe, Flowmaster 40 series, and stainless tips. I love it. I'd heard that Flowmaster can be so loud that conversations are difficult when cruising and people wear earplugs on long drives. I experienced exactly none of that. I kept the car under 60 the while way home because...reasons. But outside of some resonance at about 45 mph, the tone was pretty subdued and totally manageable. She still wears a thick sound-deadening coating on the floor boards, so that's probably helping. I will say that the new urethane motor and trans mounts transfer a ton of vibration into the car, so I almost have more noise from rattles and such than I did from exhaust. So, pics (apologies, it wasn't my phone, and their lens was smudged): Also, I spoke with the transmission shop - Jerry's Transmission in Milford https://jerrystrans.biz/mobile/ They're also quite good at what they do! They're going to have a torque converter ready for me in about 10 days (maybe less). She needs it! At a stop, the car is trying to pull thru the brakes, and the grip on the crank is stalling the engine if I don't keep blipping the throttle. Part of the reason I kept the speed down is that I worry about burning up the trans fluid with this current TC. The new stall should land somewhere between 2250 and 2400 based on the HP, cam, and rear gear. Once that's in, I will call this swap complete. Edited October 2 by FairlyRandom 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 Very nice. I’ve heard of all them shops. Curious, when you get the converter back see if has a GMT stamp on it. Are you going to the Pumpkin Run, Friday Saturday or Sunday? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted October 2 Author Share Posted October 2 (edited) Pumpkin run might not happen this year, have some family with some medical concerns so that will be a priority. I'm hoping to go, but it's a coin toss Edited October 2 by FairlyRandom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted October 7 Author Share Posted October 7 Took the car out this afternoon and ran around a little. After a long stop, went to head home and the the temp shot up to 220 in a heartbeat. Pulled over, shut her down. Rad hoses were rock hard, thermostat clearly stuck closed, which is weird considering this engine has less than 500 miles on it. Let it cool enough to where I could crack the rad cap and release the pressure. Started up and ran 160 the rest of the way home. Any ideas? Brand new thermostat and coolant, so not a rust or grime situation (I hope anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 Tstat probably stuck, if it was me I'd change it out even if it is new. Also drill a small hole in tstat. I learned this trick from another very nolagable member. it relives the pressure on the system also helps to burp the system. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 (edited) No bigger than 1/16" dia. drill bit! Face it to the front of thermostat. Also, do not use the triangular style thermostat. Just the plain cross style will work fine . Seems that triangular one likes to "stick". A 160 Degree is perfect ! Edited October 7 by 420ponies added content 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted October 7 Author Share Posted October 7 Well, I spoke with the warranty folks at blueprint and they didn't outright say it in so many words, but seems like the thermostats in these full-dress crates not opening must happen with some regularity. The guy didn't act very surprised. The thermostats they use do have a bypass, but possibly mine is faulty and isn't allowing it to regulate steam pressure like it's meant to. They're shipping a new one out today with a gasket. Looks like I caught it just in time as I was just shy of what their warranty tech called "the danger zone" with temp. I guess I should be grateful for my paranoia, I feel like I check oil pressure and temp gauges about every 30 secs lol. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted October 7 Share Posted October 7 The parts today don't have the quality control that they used to... I've heard a few people mention issues with "new" thermostats that they had to replace. The 1/16" hole is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FairlyRandom Posted October 7 Author Share Posted October 7 Popped the rad cap just to make sure I hadn't warped my heads and ruined the head gasket. my coolant was NOT full of oil, thankfully. But there was a little black stuff floating on the top inside one of the cores closest to the cap. I dipped a paper towel into it and it came out like gritty dust, not oil (thankfully). From what I've read online, this could be from the old rad hoses breaking down some. Hopefully my radiator isn't full of this stuff. Anyone else ever had this? (Sorry no pics, I'll try to get one later if the paper towel after it dries). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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