71CRLO Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 Hey, so I’m new to classic cars and was wondering how exactly I should go about my inner fender lip rubbing my sidewall on the rear. (275/60/15). I was going to cut the inner fender but thought there might be an easier way? I’d rather something a bit more simple. It is rubbing pretty bad when driving slowly or any sort of bump. Haven’t tried driving any faster or further than the driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 Are you happy with the stance? Is the rear sitting low? How are the springs? There are a few variables to figure in. Welcome to the site. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 I'll go out on a limb and say the Back Spacing on the wheel is the issue. I'l let the more knowledgable comment on that and talk about massaging the rear quarters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 1 hour ago, cny first gen 71 said: Are you happy with the stance? Is the rear sitting low? How are the springs? There are a few variables to figure in. Welcome to the site. I’m extremely happy with the stance however the rear is sitting a little lower than it probably should be. I’m assuming that it needs to be raised up a bit rather than anything else at the moment. Would springs to raise up the rear a bit be the better option? My shocks are also old and decrepit. If I put any weight in the back it likes to sag. I wouldn’t mind going a bit higher in the rear but I feel any bumps would still cause rubbing. here’s a picture without the jack holding it up. Let me know if any other pictures would help you help me. It’s getting dark so it would be tomorrow however. Thank you for the quick response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 12 minutes ago, DragCat said: I'll go out on a limb and say the Back Spacing on the wheel is the issue. I'l let the more knowledgable comment on that and talk about massaging the rear quarters I assumed that the issue was the backspacing. I just want to fix the issue asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 A quick fix would be to throw on a set of air shocks. At least you can then drive it until you can decide how to proceed. Based on the picture of the stance it’s already up in the back. Looks like a rim and tire issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 2 minutes ago, Dtret said: A quick fix would be to throw on a set of air shocks. At least you can then drive it until you can decide how to proceed. Based on the picture of the stance it’s already up in the back. Looks like a rim and tire issue. As of now I’m either doing air shocks or trying to bend in the inner lip of the quarter panel , unless someone else thinks of something else. I wouldn’t mind raising up the rear another inch, but I’d rather not have to have stiff rear suspension just so it doesn’t rub. However Id also prefer not to bend or cut anything if it can be avoided, thank you for the insight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 If it sags in the rear with weight that's the springs not the shocks. You could try air shocks to bring it up a bit or cargo coils or elcamino springs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 1 minute ago, cny first gen 71 said: If it sags in the rear with weight that's the springs not the shocks. You could try air shocks to bring it up a bit or cargo coils or elcamino springs. I may just end up replacing both the shocks and the springs, but for now I’ll probably just end up being the shocks. The springs will definitely need replaced sooner rather than later as well then? So shocks rather than any cutting or bending? How much should I be paying for quality? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 Just now, 71CRLO said: I may just end up replacing both the shocks and the springs, but for now I’ll probably just end up being the shocks. The springs will definitely need replaced sooner rather than later as well then? So shocks rather than any cutting or bending? How much should I be paying for quality? You can get a set of Monroe’s for under a hundred. I wouldn’t roll the lips. I’d check out proper rims and tires first. Can you get your hands on a set of rims and tires around the 225/75/15 size for a mock up? Just to borrow for sizing purposes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 40 minutes ago, Dtret said: You can get a set of Monroe’s for under a hundred. I wouldn’t roll the lips. I’d check out proper rims and tires first. Can you get your hands on a set of rims and tires around the 225/75/15 size for a mock up? Just to borrow for sizing purposes. I have the original rally’s all with 225/70/15. I really wanted this stance and I’m willing to do what’s needed to make it work. The originals were too small in the rear for my taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 Shockes will not raise it at all or give it any extra support unless you go with air shocks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 7 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said: Shockes will not raise it at all or give it any extra support unless you go with air shocks. I’ll have to look into them more. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 Before you do the air shocks, get a jack on the frame just behind the rear wheel. It may require stacking some short 2x4s to get between the exhaust and the fuel tank. Then raise the rear the amount you need to clear the tire on that side of the car plus a few inches for suspension travel. If you have some jack stands, you could do both sides but don’t think that’s necessary. You may not like the look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 Even though I truly like those wheels, the offset is wrong for our First Gen Monte Carlo's. Our cars can go 4-4 1/4" of negative offset(out to the fender well lip). I have 275/60/15's on a 8" wide Wheel Vintiques with a 5" positive offset(to the frame rail) rally rim with no rubbing issues. As you can see ,no issues with rubbing outer fenderwell lip. Now, I'm upgrading my suspension with coil-overs shocks all around ,and I will have a set of rear air shocks and a pair of Moog Vari-rate coil springs coming out of my car soon. The best thing about those springs are, no matter how loaded the trunk is, it doesn't sag and ride is nice with or without a load. Some other members have these springs in their cars and say the same. I'd like to stay at this stance , maybe 1" lower in the rear. Those are 235/60/15"s in the front. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBMan Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 I think your options are pretty limited. Roll the lip of the rear quarter, raise the back with air shocks as Dennis suggested, or change your wheels to something either narrower or with more backspace. It's easy to find Chevy Rally wheels with more backspace but it will likely be more challenging to match your wheels with more backspace. I would roll the lip if you decide to go that route. If you trim it, you will end up with exposed metal, which will rust. You can buy a roller online fairly inexpensive, I believe. Or take it to a body shop. I had the same problem and changed to 5" backspace wheels to cure the issue. The wheels are still 8" wide but they sit back into the wheel well .5" further - not even noticeable to the naked eye. Good luck! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 3 hours ago, TheBMan said: I think your options are pretty limited. Roll the lip of the rear quarter, raise the back with air shocks as Dennis suggested, or change your wheels to something either narrower or with more backspace. It's easy to find Chevy Rally wheels with more backspace but it will likely be more challenging to match your wheels with more backspace. I would roll the lip if you decide to go that route. If you trim it, you will end up with exposed metal, which will rust. You can buy a roller online fairly inexpensive, I believe. Or take it to a body shop. I had the same problem and changed to 5" backspace wheels to cure the issue. The wheels are still 8" wide but they sit back into the wheel well .5" further - not even noticeable to the naked eye. Good luck! I believe rolling the inner lip is going to be what I do, but in the future I may end up raising the rear a bit as well. I really do like the look it has now. I’m also going to look into air shocks today regardless. Thank you for laying out the options. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 5 hours ago, 420ponies said: Even though I truly like those wheels, the offset is wrong for our First Gen Monte Carlo's. Our cars can go 4-4 1/4" of negative offset(out to the fender well lip). I have 275/60/15's on a 8" wide Wheel Vintiques with a 5" positive offset(to the frame rail) rally rim with no rubbing issues. As you can see ,no issues with rubbing outer fenderwell lip. Now, I'm upgrading my suspension with coil-overs shocks all around ,and I will have a set of rear air shocks and a pair of Moog Vari-rate coil springs coming out of my car soon. The best thing about those springs are, no matter how loaded the trunk is, it doesn't sag and ride is nice with or without a load. Some other members have these springs in their cars and say the same. I'd like to stay at this stance , maybe 1" lower in the rear. Those are 235/60/15"s in the front. Thank you for the suggestion. I believe I’ll end up with a set of Moog’s on my car then. I hate how with any weight in the back it sags and decreases ride quality currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted September 28 Author Share Posted September 28 13 hours ago, Marks71 said: Before you do the air shocks, get a jack on the frame just behind the rear wheel. It may require stacking some short 2x4s to get between the exhaust and the fuel tank. Then raise the rear the amount you need to clear the tire on that side of the car plus a few inches for suspension travel. If you have some jack stands, you could do both sides but don’t think that’s necessary. You may not like the look. I’ll have to try that thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted September 28 Share Posted September 28 Yes, a tire that size will require some lift at the back..... I think Moroso, or just about any suspension company still make those 1" spacer rings that fit under the springs. Just remember, being a coil spring suspension, any lift will bring the differential closer to the front. Not by much, but it will push the driveshaft yoke into the transmission tailshaft. P.S...... Welcome to FGMCC. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck Posted September 30 Share Posted September 30 I had to roll the lip slightly on mine for clearance when I had the 15x8 Corvette rallys. I eventually went back to rims that fit better. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted October 2 Author Share Posted October 2 On 9/30/2024 at 10:41 AM, Canuck said: I had to roll the lip slightly on mine for clearance when I had the 15x8 Corvette rallys. I eventually went back to rims that fit better. Good to know, I’ll have to keep that in mind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason72 Posted October 3 Share Posted October 3 If you roll the lips, heat them up with a heat gun to soften the paint so it doesn’t crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71CRLO Posted October 4 Author Share Posted October 4 23 hours ago, Jason72 said: If you roll the lips, heat them up with a heat gun to soften the paint so it doesn’t crack I’m most likely going to roll the lip up. Already ordered the roller, so unless I get second hand thoughts while trying to roll them it’ll happen. I’m going to order a heat gun as well then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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