Jeff Dodson Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 Well got them ordered from Summit along with a rear Sway bar. Can you guess what I will be doing this weekend.? I know the upper buissghibggs are bad, I can see them. Is there any tricks or concerns I need too look out for.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 Support the car and the diff so it does swing down and crack you in the head. Do one arm at a time. I’m assuming your new control arms come with bushings so that will eliminate pressing bushings. Watch the brake line attached to the diff too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 Yes thank you. I knew about the supporting car and axle. I bought some BOXED so I can put the sway bar. Figured it was self explanatory. The uppers are ones I'm more concerned for. Those bushings are bad, I can see them.... what can't figure out, I'm sure I can, are the uppers and how they attach. Like 1 end does not have attached to the arm bushings ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 Yea uppers are a little tricky, kinda hard to get to but do able. I'll be doing the same to mine as soon as my back is back in shape, already have control arms and sway bar and shocks too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackhawk Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 1 hour ago, Jeff Dodson said: Yes thank you. I knew about the supporting car and axle. I bought some BOXED so I can put the sway bar. Figured it was self explanatory. The uppers are ones I'm more concerned for. Those bushings are bad, I can see them.... what can't figure out, I'm sure I can, are the uppers and how they attach. Like 1 end does not have attached to the arm bushings ? The bushings should be pressed into the upper arm in the front position, then the rear position is pressed into the differential ears with the arm sitting over them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 11 minutes ago, Blackhawk said: The bushings should be pressed into the upper arm in the front position, then the rear position is pressed into the differential ears with the arm sitting over them. Thank you.... they won't be in until tomorrow so I havnt even seen them yet. I'm not sure if they are coming with the new bushings. I hope so, but didn't show in the picture when I ordered them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 24 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said: Yea uppers are a little tricky, kinda hard to get to but do able. I'll be doing the same to mine as soon as my back is back in shape, already have control arms and sway bar and shocks too. I have the shocks on there already. I bought the Spring assisted shocks. Im not a fan of AIR SHOCKS.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 I bought the Ride Tech tool through Amazon to R+R the bushings. Most of the arms I’ve seen have come with bushings, but you will still need to R+R the 2 in the ears of the rear end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 7 hours ago, Marks71 said: I bought the Ride Tech tool through Amazon to R+R the bushings. Most of the arms I’ve seen have come with bushings, but you will still need to R+R the 2 in the ears of the rear end. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 When you get the car off the ground , you should do all 4 corners with jack stands.Or if you have a lift it will be easier. If only jack stands, lift the front up at least 4 clicks on a the front stands, then the rear the same. Support the frame on jack stands, this way you're going to have more room underneath to move around in, that way your rear axle can come down as far as needed for the uppers. I use 3 jack stands on the axle, one each side, and 1 on front side of differential housing. I also remove drive shaft from housing ( wire it/ strap it out of the way). The brake line hose should give you enough room to get to the uppers. Really thinking back , mine popped out with a large socket. I think I did the same going back in, not much press fit as I thought they would be. My new uppers from UMI Performance were aluminium bushings. Do side at a time, ( lowers ). This way you will have better control of the rear axle housing. You're going to like the difference it makes, trust me. I'd like to see the end results here on the forum.😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 2 Author Share Posted October 2 3 hours ago, 420ponies said: When you get the car off the ground , you should do all 4 corners with jack stands.Or if you have a lift it will be easier. If only jack stands, lift the front up at least 4 clicks on a the front stands, then the rear the same. Support the frame on jack stands, this way you're going to have more room underneath to move around in, that way your rear axle can come down as far as needed for the uppers. I use 3 jack stands on the axle, one each side, and 1 on front side of differential housing. I also remove drive shaft from housing ( wire it/ strap it out of the way). The brake line hose should give you enough room to get to the uppers. Really thinking back , mine popped out with a large socket. I think I did the same going back in, not much press fit as I thought they would be. My new uppers from UMI Performance were aluminium bushings. Do side at a time, ( lowers ). This way you will have better control of the rear axle housing. You're going to like the difference it makes, trust me. I'd like to see the end results here on the forum.😊 Will do... I am also putting a sway bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 On 10/1/2024 at 7:19 PM, Jeff Dodson said: Will do... I am also putting a sway bar When installing the sway bar, it should fit perfectly between the trailing arms, no gaps. If there is a gap, shims are available, because you don’t want to use the bolts to pull it tight to the arms. This will only put unnecessary stress on the arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 5 Author Share Posted October 5 57 minutes ago, Marks71 said: When installing the sway bar, it should fit perfectly between the trailing arms, no gaps. If there is a gap, shims are available, because you don’t want to use the bolts to pull it tight to the arms. This will only put unnecessary stress on the arms. Oh yes, that makes perfect t sense. They need to move with the arm... 1 question... the 2 mounting holes. Closer to the front of the trailing arm or or the rear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 Closer to the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 6 Author Share Posted October 6 Thank you. I will probably get to them tomorrow. The set I bought came with the upper control arms, but not the bushings on the differential side. I can get to those at a later date Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks71 Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 That’s interesting that they didn’t supply those bushings.Are your arms coming with rubber or polyurethane bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 6 Author Share Posted October 6 3 hours ago, Marks71 said: That’s interesting that they didn’t supply those bushings.Are your arms coming with rubber or polyurethane bushings? Polyurethane.... I prefer Polyurethane. I built an 85 C10. Had the whole kit, front, rear, body... everything... although I probably won't do that to a truck again, it drove like a stiff sports car. One more question. Does the sway bat attach to the differential ? I have never installed a rear sway bar and it did not come with bolts or brackets for it to mount to the differential Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 5 hours ago, Jeff Dodson said: One more question. Does the sway bat attach to the differential ? I have never installed a rear sway bar and it did not come with bolts or brackets for it to mount to the differential No. Just to the lower arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 6 Author Share Posted October 6 42 minutes ago, Dtret said: No. Just to the lower arms That's what I was thinking. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 Just finished the lowers and the sway bar. MAN OH MAN...if your contemplating this, DO IT. It takes all play and sway out of the car. This thing drives like a DREAM... Still need to do the uppers, havnt ordered the bushings that go on the differential yet, but I'm fixing to. I think I'm going to have to get someone to do them. I don't have a lift and I can't move around under there like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted October 13 Share Posted October 13 Told you so. Great to see this upgrade done on your Monte! Glad we could help.😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Dodson Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 It was surprisingly easy to do as well. Of course they are solid, so I had to get both loose then lift the differential up so the holes would line up and the arm would fit into the pocket.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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