Drivetrain questions............

[cbolt]

Not exactly sure, but my overdrive has an adjustable lock based on vehicle speed. There are both vacuum and electrical inputs, but to be honest I had my transmission guy convert my 200r4 from a non-lockup to a lockup and I don't know exactly how it all works. I do know I had options at the time, and my transmission guy tried a couple different options before he settled on the adjustable style because it worked the best. 

This is the system I currently use, and it does work very well.

Converter Lockup Control 70248 | eBay

[FrankOC]

6 hours ago, cbolt said:

This is the system I currently use, and it does work very well.

Converter Lockup Control 70248 | eBay

I'm using the same device, the controller is in my ashtray out of sight.

[BobW]

7 hours ago, cbolt said:

Not exactly sure, but my overdrive has an adjustable lock based on vehicle speed. There are both vacuum and electrical inputs, but to be honest I had my transmission guy convert my 200r4 from a non-lockup to a lockup and I don't know exactly how it all works. I do know I had options at the time, and my transmission guy tried a couple different options before he settled on the adjustable style because it worked the best. 

This is the system I currently use, and it does work very well.

Converter Lockup Control 70248 | eBay

 

29 minutes ago, FrankOC said:

I'm using the same device, the controller is in my ashtray out of sight.

Not sure this will work with my Dakota Digital instruments.

I'l probably use a manual "1 wire" type system that operates through a 4th gear pressure switch to lock the converter.

 https://americanautowire.com/products/700-r4-200-4r-torque-converter-lockup-kit-500412?srsltid=AfmBOoosZ_VaF-0mP83I7-dal-VFgN1H6Ex8wSXlJIE57Q4fBa1s6iWF

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmyIEV69pRA

 

[cbolt]

2 hours ago, FrankOC said:

I'm using the same device, the controller is in my ashtray out of sight.

I have mine velcro'd to the side of my gauge pod, not quite out of site but you have to look for it. 

[cbolt]

2 hours ago, BobW said:

 

Not sure this will work with my Dakota Digital instruments.

I'l probably use a manual "1 wire" type system that operates through a 4th gear pressure switch to lock the converter.

 https://americanautowire.com/products/700-r4-200-4r-torque-converter-lockup-kit-500412?srsltid=AfmBOoosZ_VaF-0mP83I7-dal-VFgN1H6Ex8wSXlJIE57Q4fBa1s6iWF

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmyIEV69pRA

 

I am fairly certain the first attempt on my car was with an electrical-only setup similar to what you have here. I never got to try it, but my transmission guy said it didn't shift into OD at the proper place so that idea was scrapped. It may have been a different kit, or technology is better now (it was several years ago now, more than 10)

[BobW]

11 minutes ago, cbolt said:

I am fairly certain the first attempt on my car was with an electrical-only setup similar to what you have here. I never got to try it, but my transmission guy said it didn't shift into OD at the proper place so that idea was scrapped. It may have been a different kit, or technology is better now (it was several years ago now, more than 10)

I've been trying to educate myself about this process, at least to understand how it's supposed to work. Mostly so I don't get B.S.'d when I talk to the transmission builder.

It seems most shifting/Performance issues are related to the TV cable adjustment, as well as the proper springs in the valve.

This is pretty informative and understandable: https://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/TV_101-1.pdf

And FWIW, I'm heading to West Palm Beach tomorrow to pick up a 3:36 rear........

[cbolt]

14 minutes ago, BobW said:

I've been trying to educate myself about this process, at least to understand how it's supposed to work. Mostly so I don't get B.S.'d when I talk to the transmission builder.

It seems most shifting/Performance issues are related to the TV cable adjustment, as well as the proper springs in the valve.

This is pretty informative and understandable: https://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/TV_101-1.pdf

And FWIW, I'm heading to West Palm Beach tomorrow to pick up a 3:36 rear........

I likely mis-spoke. It is the lockup that was not in the right spot, not the OD. With the electric only version, if memory serves, it would go into OD then immediately into lockup, causing it to feel like it bogged down. Lockup too soon. 

I'm hoping you did your research and selected a trans builder who wouldn't BS you. My guy was great, but sadly passed away a few years ago. I hope I don't have to find a new guy anytime soon because mechanics in general have a reputation for being shifty and dodgy for a reason.

[Jason72]

The electric only version did as cbolt stated. As soon as the transmission shifted into 4th gear, the converter would lock up. It was a simple power into the switch that closed to send power to the lock up solenoid when it picked up 4th gear pressure in the valve body. Many people would put a switch in the circuit so they could manually lock the converter 

[Scott S.]

Hey Bob,

I'm just using the powered switch to lock the converter...... But B&M and TCI have kits that you can buy that make it easier to use.

With the system I'm using, it's recommended that you don't turn it on until the engine is running. Supposedly the electrical jolt from ignition can cause damage to the solenoid. Same with turning it off before turning off the ignition to. 

I've included some diagrams, the wiring is similar for the 200r4 as well. 

I'll try and get a photo of mine the vnext time I'm under there.  

[BobW]

5 hours ago, Jason72 said:

The electric only version did as cbolt stated. As soon as the transmission shifted into 4th gear, the converter would lock up. It was a simple power into the switch that closed to send power to the lock up solenoid when it picked up 4th gear pressure in the valve body. Many people would put a switch in the circuit so they could manually lock the converter 

 

1 hour ago, Scott S. said:

Hey Bob,

I'm just using the powered switch to lock the converter...... But B&M and TCI have kits that you can buy that make it easier to use.

With the system I'm using, it's recommended that you don't turn it on until the engine is running. Supposedly the electrical jolt from ignition can cause damage to the solenoid. Same with turning it off before turning off the ignition to. 

I've included some diagrams, the wiring is similar for the 200r4 as well. 

I'll try and get a photo of mine the vnext time I'm under there.  

Just what I'm planning to do, engage the lockup manually when I want it on. I'm going to base it on this method from Monster Transmissions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmyIEV69pRA 

This is their kit: https://monstertransmission.com/products/700r4-external-lock-up-kit-with-4th-gear-pressure-port?variant=50735189688629

Pretty sure I can build it for less than $200!

 

[NavyCPO]

10 hours ago, Scott S. said:

Hey Bob,

I'm just using the powered switch to lock the converter...... But B&M and TCI have kits that you can buy that make it easier to use.

With the system I'm using, it's recommended that you don't turn it on until the engine is running. Supposedly the electrical jolt from ignition can cause damage to the solenoid. Same with turning it off before turning off the ignition to. 

I've included some diagrams, the wiring is similar for the 200r4 as well. 

I'll try and get a photo of mine the vnext time I'm under there.  

This all sounds like way to much work on the operator.  Don't they have a setup where the converter just locks up when it's supposed to?  Do you have to use a LOCK UP COnverter?  T350 and T400's didn't have lock up converters and we used those for years.  Is a lock up converter mandatory when you go to an overdrive tranny?

[cbolt]

5 hours ago, NavyCPO said:

This all sounds like way to much work on the operator.  Don't they have a setup where the converter just locks up when it's supposed to?  Do you have to use a LOCK UP COnverter?  T350 and T400's didn't have lock up converters and we used those for years.  Is a lock up converter mandatory when you go to an overdrive tranny?

First off, the answer to a lock up converter being mandatory is no. When I purchased my 200r4 transmission it came from the builder (Art Carr, the rip-off artist) as a non-lockup OD transmission. 

When I had it converted by a local guy to lockup he went through the process of trying the different styles of things to make the trans lockup automatically. Remember, the lockup style trans/converter was original equipment on vehicles that were computer controlled, and the computer would control the lockup point. Anyway, my tech settled on the adjustable style that I can set at any speed I want to for the trans to lock up, or disable it completely. Or, I can leave it off, then when I reach highway speed I can simply push the button and the trans will lockup, dropping my rpm by roughly 200. 

I prefer to set it and forget it, and right now my trans locks up at around 50 mph and shifts into OD at roughly 45 mph. I can and probably should bump that up to lockup at 55 mph. 

[Scott S.]

2 hours ago, cbolt said:

First off, the answer to a lock up converter being mandatory is no. When I purchased my 200r4 transmission it came from the builder (Art Carr, the rip-off artist) as a non-lockup OD transmission. 

When I had it converted by a local guy to lockup he went through the process of trying the different styles of things to make the trans lockup automatically. Remember, the lockup style trans/converter was original equipment on vehicles that were computer controlled, and the computer would control the lockup point. Anyway, my tech settled on the adjustable style that I can set at any speed I want to for the trans to lock up, or disable it completely. Or, I can leave it off, then when I reach highway speed I can simply push the button and the trans will lockup, dropping my rpm by roughly 200. 

I prefer to set it and forget it, and right now my trans locks up at around 50 mph and shifts into OD at roughly 45 mph. I can and probably should bump that up to lockup at 55 mph. 

Pretty much the same set up I'm using..... But my understanding is that if the solenoid isn't powered, it can burn out the lock up converter.

So turning it on is just part of my start up.  

When I removed the th350, it had a lock up converter case (TCI)............. My transmission guy figured that it must have been rebuilt without the feature. 

[Scott S.]

2 hours ago, cbolt said:

First off, the answer to a lock up converter being mandatory is no. When I purchased my 200r4 transmission it came from the builder (Art Carr, the rip-off artist) as a non-lockup OD transmission. 

When I had it converted by a local guy to lockup he went through the process of trying the different styles of things to make the trans lockup automatically. Remember, the lockup style trans/converter was original equipment on vehicles that were computer controlled, and the computer would control the lockup point. Anyway, my tech settled on the adjustable style that I can set at any speed I want to for the trans to lock up, or disable it completely. Or, I can leave it off, then when I reach highway speed I can simply push the button and the trans will lockup, dropping my rpm by roughly 200. 

I prefer to set it and forget it, and right now my trans locks up at around 50 mph and shifts into OD at roughly 45 mph. I can and probably should bump that up to lockup at 55 mph. 

My T-Type had one..... Could get about 30 mpg (Can) on the highway.

[cbolt]

4 hours ago, Scott S. said:

Pretty much the same set up I'm using..... But my understanding is that if the solenoid isn't powered, it can burn out the lock up converter.

So turning it on is just part of my start up.  

When I removed the th350, it had a lock up converter case (TCI)............. My transmission guy figured that it must have been rebuilt without the feature. 

I've done it both ways, with the lockup at times always activated and at times always disabled, and haven't had any trouble with the converter. As a matter of fact, the local hot rod guy was impressed with how "tight" (his words) my transmission was after test driving my car following my brake upgrade. I keep it activated now since I have it adjusted about where I want it. 

[Scott S.]

On 5/20/2025 at 1:17 PM, Scott S. said:

Hey Bob,

I'm just using the powered switch to lock the converter...... But B&M and TCI have kits that you can buy that make it easier to use.

With the system I'm using, it's recommended that you don't turn it on until the engine is running. Supposedly the electrical jolt from ignition can cause damage to the solenoid. Same with turning it off before turning off the ignition to. 

I've included some diagrams, the wiring is similar for the 200r4 as well. 

I'll try and get a photo of mine the vnext time I'm under there.  

[Dtret]

Don’t look like that exhaust is doing that harness any favors. 

[Scott S.]

That "melted looking" spot is actually electrical tape to keep the wire in the harness...... 

The rest of the harness runs to the temparture sender in the transmission pan.

Other than the occasional drive in the rain, I haven't washed under there in about 4 years. 

But thanks for the note.   

[Sids Monte]

I know I'm jumping in late here. 

I'm running a (stage 3)2004R that was built be extreme automatic.  It's behind a healthy 540 big block.  It's an expensive transmission to get built and not the most common if you run into issues down the road.  Just something to keep in mind.  I selected this over a 7004R based on hearing about 200's being stronger and having a "better" 1st gear then the 7004r.  It was also an easy install w/ little mods.  Mine has no lock-up and standard shift pattern.  Im using a horseshoe shifter with a true slap detent plate.  If I had to do it again, I might have left the th400 in and added a gear vendors for OD.  Hard to say.  TH400's are cheap to build and everywhere.  All depends on what your looking for and budget.

Anyone going the 2004R route, my only recommendation is to make sure you get your TV cable set-up properly.  I wont take long to burn it up if its wrong.  I learned the hard way.  Included, is a link to the extreme automatic installation procedure for their 2004r's.  This has a great TV cable setup procedure.  IMO, the pressure gauge method is the only way to go.

Another thing for 2004r owners.  Always start in 1st or 2nd.  Especially if your gonna get on it and or do any burnouts.  Reason.  In 1st or 2nd gear, you always have full line pressure on the clutches.  If you are in drive or OD, your line pressure is based on TV cable position.  You'll see this by looking at the pressure chart in the attached.

I'm at about 6500 miles since i got my TV cable right!  I've beat on it some, but haven't made it to the strip yet.  Hopefully later this year.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0707/5371/4478/files/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf?v=1673808280

[Scott S.]

Actually, the 700r4 has a slightly deeper first gear, but the 200r4 has a taller overdrive. 

Considering the fact that the 200r4 is pretty much a bolt in, the price wasn't all that bad...... I spent about $3500.00 (Can.) for everything. Cables, linkages, fluids.... The works. And that was having it built to take 750 hp.

And YES !!! 

The T.V. cable is a finicky b****. 

That's why I had a few visits to the builder to get it right.  

[Scott S.]

20 minutes ago, Scott S. said:

Actually, the 700r4 has a slightly deeper first gear, but the 200r4 has a taller overdrive. 

Considering the fact that the 200r4 is pretty much a bolt in, the price wasn't all that bad...... I spent about $3500.00 (Can.) for everything. Cables, linkages, fluids.... The works. And that was having it built to take 750 hp.

And YES !!! 

The T.V. cable is a finicky b****. 

That's why I had a few visits to the builder to get it right.