jbird72 Posted July 5 Posted July 5 So I bought these energy suspension, transmission and motor mounts, and the transmission mount for the th400 states in the box to use this plate then says it's not a spacer. But if I use it, it highers the transmission a lot more than the one I took out. I've been reading on Google and some people use them and some people don't. I just want to do this right. There's also spacers or plates for the motor mounts, as well. Also, should the bolts be tapered? Because the bolts are tapered, when I took them out of the transmission. They just don't look right to me. The bolts that hold mount to trans Quote
Scott S. Posted July 5 Posted July 5 Jay, If those are the bolts that actually thread into the transmission housing, then yes, they are tapered. Has to do with heat expansion/seizing in dissimilar metals. Plus easier to use on the assembly line. As for the plate, there was one on my 350TH as well. I believe it's more for protecting the rubber in the mount than anything else, but like you, I found it interfered with clearances when I swapped in the 200r4. I took mine out. Just to mention.... The theory on driveshafts is that a perfectly straight alignment causes faster wear. A slight "kink" is supposedly easier on the bearings. But not to much. If I remember right, there's a formula based on length..... But 3 degrees defection come to mind. I'm sure someone here has a better idea on the subject. Scott. 2 Quote
jbird72 Posted July 5 Author Posted July 5 3 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Jay, If those are the bolts that actually thread into the transmission housing, then yes, they are tapered. Has to do with heat expansion/seizing in dissimilar metals. Plus easier to use on the assembly line. As for the plate, there was one on my 350TH as well. I believe it's more for protecting the rubber in the mount than anything else, but like you, I found it interfered with clearances when I swapped in the 200r4. I took mine out. Just to mention.... The theory on driveshafts is that a perfectly straight alignment causes faster wear. A slight "kink" is supposedly easier on the bearings. But not to much. If I remember right, there's a formula based on length..... But 3 degrees defection come to mind. I'm sure someone here has a better idea on Well, the problem is, is the one doesn't want to screw in, it wants to just turn, it's like it's stripped, so I figured I'd throw some J. B weld on it or something, whoever put this thing in was a complete moron. Quote
jbird72 Posted July 5 Author Posted July 5 Just now, jbird72 said: Well, the problem is, is the one doesn't want to screw in, it wants to just turn, it's like it's stripped, so I figured I'd throw some J. B weld on it or something, whoever put this thing in was a complete moron. I guess i can see if oriellys carries them....,so im guessin on motor mounts dont use them either then more than likely Ts Quote
Scott S. Posted July 5 Posted July 5 In an aluminum casing, I'd recommend the heli screw thread..... You drill out and re tap the hole and then the heli (hope I got the name right) threads in. I'm not a fan of J.B. weld.... It's a pain to work with if you ever want to pull the bolt again. 3 Quote
Scott S. Posted July 5 Posted July 5 5 minutes ago, jbird72 said: I guess i can see if oriellys carries them....,so im guessin on motor mounts dont use them either then more than likely Ts Most likely only available in the kit, I don't know if you can get them separately. Quote
jbird72 Posted July 5 Author Posted July 5 9 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Most likely only available in the kit, I don't know if you can get them separately. Bolts didnt come in kit just shorter ones to mount to the cross member Quote
jbird72 Posted July 5 Author Posted July 5 Just now, jbird72 said: Bolts didnt come in kit just shorter ones to mount to the cross member Gota love it 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted July 5 Author Posted July 5 43 minutes ago, Scott S. said: Jay, If those are the bolts that actually thread into the transmission housing, then yes, they are tapered. Has to do with heat expansion/seizing in dissimilar metals. Plus easier to use on the assembly line. As for the plate, there was one on my 350TH as well. I believe it's more for protecting the rubber in the mount than anything else, but like you, I found it interfered with clearances when I swapped in the 200r4. I took mine out. Just to mention.... The theory on driveshafts is that a perfectly straight alignment causes faster wear. A slight "kink" is supposedly easier on the bearings. But not to much. If I remember right, there's a formula based on length..... But 3 degrees defection come to mind. I'm sure someone here has a better idea on the subject. Scott. I agree what your saying but are those the right bolts. Cause thy was in there doesnt mean they are right. Ive been surfing and no bolts ressemble that pic. But ill do the heli coil and try get same bolts i guess Quote
Dtret Posted July 5 Posted July 5 4 hours ago, jbird72 said: Well, the problem is, is the one doesn't want to screw in, it wants to just turn, it's like it's stripped, so I figured I'd throw some J. B weld on it or something, whoever put this thing in was a complete moron. Replace the tail shaft housing?? Is that an option? 2 Quote
Dtret Posted July 5 Posted July 5 Jegs states it fits but please double check. Probably cheaper than a hell-coil. 2 Quote
GRAY 70 Monte Carlo Posted July 5 Posted July 5 There is probably the best way and correct way to do it 2 Quote
bob 71 Posted July 6 Posted July 6 heli coil kits dont cost that mutch. new housing would be better. has new seal plus new bushing 5 Quote
GRAY 70 Monte Carlo Posted July 6 Posted July 6 Also while you have it off check drive gear and speedometer gear make sure it matches your rear end gear for a correct speedometer reading 2 Quote
MC-71 Posted Wednesday at 04:38 PM Posted Wednesday at 04:38 PM Those bolts look like body bolts. Like on your hood hinge. Quote
420ponies Posted Wednesday at 04:44 PM Posted Wednesday at 04:44 PM That's what I was thinking also. Should be a flat threaded bolt going into the transmission. Wish I would have documented the bolts in my transmission when I replaced it with the Turbo400 . those bolts are not correct. I do know a they have a large / thick flat washer for the trans mount. 3 Quote
Scott S. Posted Wednesday at 05:36 PM Posted Wednesday at 05:36 PM Had to look them up to be sure..... Not as tapered as I thought. 3 Quote
jbird72 Posted Wednesday at 07:38 PM Author Posted Wednesday at 07:38 PM 2 hours ago, 420ponies said: That's what I was thinking also. Should be a flat threaded bolt going into the transmission. Wish I would have documented the bolts in my transmission when I replaced it with the Turbo400 . those bolts are not correct. I do know a they have a large / thick flat washer for the trans mount. Yeah, the Tran shop that put this in apparently years ago. Didn't really do that good of a job, because when I pulled the motor apart from the tranny washers, fell out from the converter, and I think they shimmed the converter when they didn't need to, because the crank actually pushed forward in my block. I had to get new thrust bearings to get the crank to not rub on the block. So it's supposed to be eight thousandths away from block now it's five thousands but it's fixed, and it's not rubbing. And this is like, hmm, supposedly one of the best trans places around here, so it had to be someone that was new ...just frustrating. Good thing pulled motor or i never would of found all this micky mouse stuff 1 3 Quote
jbird72 Posted Thursday at 03:44 PM Author Posted Thursday at 03:44 PM 22 hours ago, Scott S. said: Had to look them up to be sure..... Not as tapered as I thought. Turns out cranks bent so now gonna put a 400 crank in her....plot thickens ugg...i got some flange bolts grade 8 same deal as picture 1 1 3 Quote
420ponies Posted Thursday at 07:29 PM Posted Thursday at 07:29 PM Is this the motor you had dyno'd ? I gotta say one step forward, 3 steps back! Quote
cny first gen 71 Posted Thursday at 09:08 PM Posted Thursday at 09:08 PM 5 hours ago, jbird72 said: Turns out cranks bent so now gonna put a 400 crank in her....plot thickens ugg...i got some flange bolts grade 8 same deal as picture Is this a 350 your working on? I believe if you put the 400 crank on a 350 the block has to be machined for the longer stroke. 1 Quote
jbird72 Posted Thursday at 09:53 PM Author Posted Thursday at 09:53 PM 41 minutes ago, cny first gen 71 said: Is this a 350 your working on? I believe if you put the 400 crank on a 350 the block has to be machined for the longer stroke. Its .40 now...sucks cause was getting decent power. Cant run with bent crank. Thats why rear main still leaks well i guess bright side should be more torqy costing a lil more than getting another 350 crank Quote
jbird72 Posted Thursday at 11:52 PM Author Posted Thursday at 11:52 PM 1 hour ago, jbird72 said: Its .40 now...sucks cause was getting decent power. Cant run with bent crank. Thats why rear main still leaks well i guess bright side should be more torqy costing a lil more than getting another 350 crank 2 hours ago, cny first gen 71 said: Is this a 350 your working on? I believe if you put the 400 crank on a 350 the block has to be machined for the longer stroke. Im doin new pistons crank rods timing chain. I fig better than putting lipstick on pig. The cam button was missing also..just gets better ugg 1 Quote
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