inner and outer ball joints

[jsantoro]

can someone help, just replaced ball joints having a problem installing the new balljoints indo they make a tool or did they sell me the wrong ones 70 monte they just dont fit do you press them in, thanks for the help

[monte70car]

the upper ball joints bolt in place where the lower ball joint needs to be pushed in. The tie rods one will screw on clock wise and the other will be counter clock wise.

[cny first gen 71]

Yes there is a tool its a ball joint press. Some auto parts stores have tool loaner programs you may be able to do that.

[MCfan]

Sounds like we're having fun now, Joe!

 

Not sure just what you mean by "inner and outer ball joints". Upper and lower, I get. Frankly, you haven't given us much info to work with so I'll make some assumptions. Sorry if this is more than you need.

 

If you had already removed the old ball joints, you would know that the lower ones are pressed into the lower control arm and the upper ones are either riveted or bolted to the upper control arm.

 

You will need to separate both ball joints from the spindle first. You can use the force of the coil spring to your advantage here. Loosen the nuts on both ball joint stems and back them off until the top of the nut is flush with the end of the stem. Put a floor jack or suitable block about 1/2 inch beneath the lower control arm to "catch" it when the ball joints pop loose.

 

Now you can separate the ball joints from the spindle any one of several ways: smartly whacking on the nut that is flush with the stem end; rapping on the side of the spindle adjacent to the taper joint, using a "pickle fork", using a ball joint separator tool or using a homemade spreader tool. After both upper and lower ball joints have separated from the spindle, use your floor jack or suitable block to support the lower control arm and then remove the ball joint stem nuts and move the spindle/hub assembly aside.

 

If you are replacing the ball joints without removing the control arms (since that certainly is not required),

You will need to chisel the heads off of the four rivets that hold the upper ball joint to the control arm. An air chisel makes quick work of it, although a heavy hammer and sharp cold chisel will get it done, also. After cutting off the heads, use a slightly smaller diameter punch to drive the rivets out. Obviously, if there are four bolts already there instead of rivets, just unbolt it.

 

The lower ball joints can either be dirven out or pressed out with a special "C" clamp tool that you can borrow from any Advance Auto store. You'll probably need it to install the lower ball joints anyway, so you might as well use the tool to press out the old ones as well. Just follow the instructions that come with the tool.

 

Installing the new ball joints is just reversing the removal procedure. The upper ball joint is bolted in with the four bolts, washers and nuts that come with the ball joint. The lower ball joint can be pressed into the lower control arm with the "C" clamp tool. Don't install the grease zerk until you have the lower ball joint safely pressed into the control arm to avoid damaging it. Once both joints are in place, you can bolt them securely to the spindle.

 

I've heard that you can actually bolt the lower ball joint to the spindle without pressing it into the lower control arm because when you remove the support/jack under the lower control arm, the force of the spring will pop it into place. I can see that this would work, but I haven't personally tried it.

 

I've included a few pictures below that may help also. Obviously, the upper and lower control arms had been removed from the car in this case, but you can do the same thing with the control arms still in place, it just won't be as handy.

 

Chiseling the rivet heads off.

 

Driving out the lower ball joint with a heavy hammer.

 

The "C" clamp tool set I borrowed from my local Advance Auto parts store.

 

The new lower ball joint ready to be pressed into the control arm.

 

The only pieces of the tool set needed to press in the lower ball joint.

 

Pressing in the lower ball joint with the "C" clamp tools.

 

New lower and upper ball joints installed in their respective control arms.

 

Upper control arm and new ball joint in place.

 

Lower control arm and new ball joint in place and spindle being bolted onto the new ball joints.

[ThirdMC]

Replaced the ones on my 71 last summer. It can be a bit of a pain in the a** to press the lower ones in but, it can be done. I used a ball joint press I was loaned by Autozone. Took a little trial and error but I got it done.

[cny first gen 71]

The ball joint press can also be used for putting in u joints too. Great detail on that Dennis and great pictures too.

[Sam (Bones)]

there is another option here too on the lower control arm...

 

if you have the arm off the car, drive to the parts store, give them the arm and pay the $10-15 bucks to have them install it, afterall....you are going there to rent the tool, for the cost of the tool rental, you can have them installed, no fuss, no skinned knuckles, no stress and most times you will be much farther ahead

[Monteman1971]

Very nice write up Dennis!!!

 

Where are you in NY Joe? If your on Long Island and have the arms off the car, you can come see me and I'll press them in for you.

 

PM me if you need me.

 

Steve

[cny first gen 71]

Dennis I see you have a bolt in the banjo fitting on the brake hose, what also works great on those is a long tire valve stem after you pull it off just slide the stem in and nothing will leak out. I learned that trick working in a brake shop used it every time.

[MCfan]

Thanks for sharing that tip, Steve.

 

Actually, I think that "bolt" is the one that goes with the fitting. I just tied the hoses up so they wouldn't leak brake fluid all over and put snug-fitting plastic plugs in the caliper housings while I refurbished them. I'll try your technique when I rebuild the front suspension of my SS car this fall.