Xxyyzz Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Sound system sounds great. Put car in Drive, foot on the gas, sound goes dead. Foot off gas, it comes back. Put car in Park, leave foot on gas, no sound. lift off of gas, sound comes back. I think the Amp is going into safe mode b/c its getting too much juice. Can a bad alternator give too much electricity? Ways to test this? -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 sounds like more of a ground issue to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 how come? wouldnt a bad ground always make no sound. why would it be when i rev the egngine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 9 times out of 10 when electrical issue show up, it's a ground issue, esp in a forty year old car you can check voltage output at the battery with a voltmeter, you don't want much over 14 volts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Hey Mark, Just taking a guess here if it makes sense... Our cars built back 40 odd years ago never heard of or knew anyone called Rockford Fosgate or Killer Amps. so our wiring in our cars if you are useing the factory wires to give straight power then the Gauge of the wire is not correct not only to supply power but Constant power needed to run after market stereo equipment. In line fuses off of the Voltage regulator are not large enough for a 45 amp fuse at regular running Capacity but will run at nominal use which is at idle or 20 amps the more louder the stereo is turned up the more of a draw and the amps required.. Just my 2 cents worth and as I said just a guess... Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VE3HZZ Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Listen to your car it is telling you, when you REV me you want to HEAR ME....LOL... Sorry serious subject but Darren is likely on to something. Try this run a power wire DIRECT from the battery + to the power wire of the radio ( the always ON one) with a 20 amp inline fuse in it. Just for test purposes does not have to be all routed and installed at this point. Run the GROUND to the chassis as you likely have now a good solid one if not already. Then turn on the radio, start your engine..rev it and see what happens. Likely it will work fine. So as Darren said it is likely the wiring setup. Take a relay and wire it in to the battery on Tab 30 (with a 20 amp fuse) and then 87/87a of that run it to the radio. Then take the 85 run to ground and 86 run a smaller gauge wire and run it to an accessory that only comes on when the car is running or rather the ignition is in the RUN/ACC position. This setup will eliminate any wiring in the car other then the speakers maybe being used. In fact the radio power wire which should by factory be ignition only would serve to run to pin 86 of the relay. This is a switching circuit then and no power will flow without that relay being switched. Safe and no strain on the current electrical system and juice right from the battery. Large 10 Gauge wire to Relay and out to radio. If you run an amp can hook up a 2nd relay in a BANK affair under the hood on the fender or firewall. You can even find them out of a junked car (newer CHEV Cavalier or?) for the engine bay that have plastic covers over them for a sleek look or can buy this on line like those PAINLESS wiring harnesses. I think as Darren pointed out this is likely your problem but instead of chasing your tail, the wire to battery FIRST to check that works fine is the first thing I'd try... Just my .02 cents..... Regards Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KWick_70MC Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 How long have you had the radio in the car? did it start as soon as you installed, or something new?? Do you just have a radio, or do you have subs etc etc in there?? rust acts as a capacitor and so will drop ALL of your voltage aross that junction, but not allow any current flow across the junction. So your wiring is getting hot in areas that it should not, due to current flow trying to get to the other side of that "capacitor" rust. As the engine revs the ignition requires more juuce to run the car, and the alternator, not like people believe, it only outputs 14V's dc at 60 amps, whether your driving 3500 rpm, or idling, but the draw from it increases. I am not sure what kind of stereo you have, but surely check the grounds. Everywhere, especially in the ignition system, and the radio circuits. If you have a whompa thompa go to an increased amp alt., and maybe a dual battery. Does not need to be the super wango dango's from the car places, just another source for the radio to draw from. If that is where you are with the radio.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 I have subs and an amp in the trunk. Speakers/deck/subs/amp all installed at a reputable local shop. They told me the amp is going into safe mode b/c its getting too much juice. They seem to think the alternator is bad. Im going to try to replace it and see what happens (only 42$ +core at autozone). There isn't any rust around the wiring. the system worked for months without problems. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Ahhhh, your Monte is a 1972!! I forgot it will have an Internal Voltage reg built into the alternator so thats what is bad as you said... I had 1970 on the brain which has an external regulator on the rad frame over by the drivers side headlight... Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KWick_70MC Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Take it to autoparts store and have it checked. It is free for most parts houses.. another shade tree mechanic way to check it, is to disconnect the battery while she is running, and if the car dies, it is bad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 6, 2012 Author Share Posted February 6, 2012 autozone can check if an alternator is bad? i never knew. also could a bad alternator give too much juice? Is the voltage regulator just what tells the alternator how much juice to puish out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KWick_70MC Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 The regulator is exactly that.. The alternator produces a "dirty" signal from the turning of the brushes, the regulator has a bunch of circuits inside that clean it up, and make sure it stays a constant 14V's and a constant current. Thats why I was saying that no matter of the motor is idling or going 3500 rpm, it stays the same.. Yes it can go bad and push too much juice too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 any tips when i install the alternator? Ive never done one before. how do i get the belt off? Just when i take the alt. off it will fall off? -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 The top bolt on the alt. rides in a slot when you losten it and losten the lower bolt it will slide and the belt will loosten up and come off. The lower bolt may have a spacer behind it be carefull you dont loose it. It is a simple change just remember to unhook the battery first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Darren said: "your Monte is a 1972!! I forgot it will have an Internal Voltage reg built into the alternator" Uggg, I think I got the wrong one. I'm going to return my autozone one and go through summit. Can anyone check out summit and suggest something? Also seeing as my problem is too many volts, I'm assuming there is no such thing as an "upgraded" alternator to accomadate my sound system? On summit they offer many different amps... will more amps help, what will more amps do? (i understand replacing the alternator will probably fix my problem, but I'm looking to upgrade if i can at the same time) -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I'm trying to find a chrome one for mine and summit dosent list one with external regulator or at least I couldnt fine one so I have to call them to see if they do have one. Pretty sure I saw an 80 and 100 amp internally regulated for about 100 dollers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 But how many amps do i need? And how does more amps not make more volts? Btw first gen you have 1971 posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KWick_70MC Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 stock is 60 amps, I would say that 110 amps will be plenty to handle what you need.. I strongly recommend that you run seperate wiring for your sub and radio accesories. They put heavier brushes and pickups with the same properties and it does not create more voltage, just more amperage (current), and the regulator works in tandem to accomplish it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Ill post a pic of my sound setup tonite. Like i said i did not install it, a shop did. So i will look for 110+ amps. Thanks Do i need one that's 1 wire capable? V-Belt or Serpentine belt? How does this one look: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-810350/ it seems to be the best dollar per amp ratio in price range lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I didnt notice that untill you said it Mark thanks. I ordered mine today 80 amp chrome from summit 90 bucks, took the guy a while to find it but they have it in stock. I dont think I need any more than 80 amps no super add on's to speek of other than a single disc cd player. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Is the one you ordered v or serpentine belt? 1 or 3 wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 3 wire with v belt. It will be here tomorrow maybe i'll put it on this weekend if I get time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I got either a 100 or 140amp 1 wire serpentine belt setup on my, I do have a few add ons like stock power windows door locks, a updated sound system, elec. fans, and a EFI system. and yes that is the stock tunnel in the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Take a look at this thread Alternator Conversion At the end you will see how I did mine, with pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xxyyzz Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 I looked at the conversion thread and electrical work confuses the bejeesus outta me. I may just pull my alternator and see how many wires there are... OK, so some of you guys say 3-wire and some say 1. What came stock? Whats the difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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