71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hey All. I recently took my alternator apart to have it chromed. I got it all back today. You guessed it I need help putting it back together. Anyone got any diagrams? Here is a pic of the chrome work: There is still wax on the parts in the picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Did you take any pix while disassembling it? That usually helps a lot. If I was closer I would help you as I used to build and rebuild them for GM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Did you take any pix while disassembling it? That usually helps a lot. If I was closer I would help you as I used to build and rebuild them for GM. No I didn't take ahy pictures. I didn't think it would take so long to get done. I'm going to give it a shot from memory, but I was hoping someone had some instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I was taught to "scribe" a mark PRIOR to taking it apart so the top and bottom case go back into the correct relationship like they were. Were the three diodes removed? It sort of looks like they are still in the rear half of the case. I don't remember the procedure but you should check them. Also I cracked the rear case installing the new bearings. I didn't support the inside and pounded too hard. I think I took a photo journal if I can only find it. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 I was taught to "scribe" a mark PRIOR to taking it apart so the top and bottom case go back into the correct relationship like they were. Were the three diodes removed? It sort of looks like they are still in the rear half of the case. I don't remember the procedure but you should check them. Also I cracked the rear case installing the new bearings. I didn't support the inside and pounded too hard. I think I took a photo journal if I can only find it. Bruce I left the three diodes intact. Thanks Bruce!! You are the photo journal man!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 will this help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Rod, See if you can view these pictures. Bruce 1971 37Amp Alt rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 that's a nice diagram Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Thanks Guys!!! Exactly what I needed. I had started putting it back together from memory and I wasn't far off. Thanks again!!... Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Man. That looks nice Rodney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Rod, See if you can view these pictures. Bruce 1971 37Amp Alt rebuild Bruce, nice pictures..too bad you didn't add some comments to the pictures. It would make a nice (tutorial) piece to add to the archives. Nothing like pictures if you ask me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Got It!! It's kind of tight and doesn't spin as free as it should. I'm going to test it when I go back to work tomorrow. I also have to clean the threads up to put the pulley bolt on. We will see!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Got It!! It's kind of tight and doesn't spin as free as it should. I'm going to test it when I go back to work tomorrow. I also have to clean the threads up to put the pulley bolt on. We will see!! Looks good! Just one picture,, nothing like keeping us fed.. I was expecting nicer shots and perhaps one down the runway with different angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 When I rebuilt mine, there wasn't any problems but the case looked bad. Spinning prior by hand was fine with a hint of noise but after new bearings WOW it spun so freely and didn't make a sound. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montemedic Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Rod's exploded view and bruce's photos are great info. Thank you for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Did you use a paper clip or something to hold the brushes back when assembling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 paper clip picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Yes I held the bruhses in. The thing siezes up when I tighten down the pulley. What could I have done wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 spacer behind fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toppless72 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I think Rod hit it. There are 2 spacers. One behind the fan and one following the front bearing retainer. Tightening the fan nut in front places no bind on the rear of the unit. You can remove the rear housing via the four screws and the front housing and bearing assembly remains just as tight. The stator floats in the rear housing where the brushes are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 I think Rod hit it. There are 2 spacers. One behind the fan and one following the front bearing retainer. Tightening the fan nut in front places no bind on the rear of the unit. You can remove the rear housing via the four screws and the front housing and bearing assembly remains just as tight. The stator floats in the rear housing where the brushes are. Looking at the diagram that Rod provided there appears to be three spacers. There is one under the fan and another under the bearing retainer, then there is one at the bottom of the lower housing. I only have two spacers. I have tried to put one at the bottom and the other under the fan. It binded. Then I tried to put one under the fan and behind the retainer and it binded. I am at a standstill right now. I am going to try and get a third spacer. I remember taking a spacer with all the other stuff to get chromed. I think it got misplaced. Will post my results when I get the third spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Rodney, I have not had one apart lately, although I believe not all spacers are the same. I may be wrong, though it memory serves me right leaving one of them out creates havoc. I have a couple of old alternators if you happen to find yourself needing a lost spacer.. let me know I'll break-it down and toss it in the mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toppless72 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 The third spacer behind the rotor would have no affect on the front bearing getting locked down by tightening the fan nut. The force is only clamping to the front of the rotor. By tightening the nut you are pulling the rotor towards the front housing and bearing. That is where it seems to become tight according to your description. The spacer behind the rotor would have no affect on this. I still think Rod is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 The third spacer behind the rotor would have no affect on the front bearing getting locked down by tightening the fan nut. The force is only clamping to the front of the rotor. By tightening the nut you are pulling the rotor towards the front housing and bearing. That is where it seems to become tight according to your description. The spacer behind the rotor would have no affect on this. I still think Rod is right. I agree 100%. I'd highly doubt that chroming the unit would have adverse results. My money is on the missing spacer behind the fan.. or a wrong spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.