NewTimer Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Converting a 1972 non powered window car to power. Could I buy just the motors and connect them to exciting regulator? Or would i have to buy an entire new regulator? I'm not worried about new switches I plan on making my own and maybe new location. Arthur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Found my answer here. http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=393961&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Arthur you will need the whole setup take a look at the for sale forum Vince has a complete set of power windows from a 70 for sale $300. There is also the aftermarket which sales power window kits and then add your our switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Found my answer here. http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=393961&page=1 That's a priceless write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Robert- That is actually why I asked, because I wanted to buy the one Vince was selling guilty Originally Posted By: NewTimer Found my answer here.i http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=393961&page=1 That's a priceless write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Does anyone know if the rear window guides are different from power and non power windows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 They are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 Is there a way to remove the roller guides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Arthur, Everything comes out front and rear they are rivited in or 7/16 bolted in, the only thing that changes is the regulators with motors bolted on them. BUT and thats a big but the locations they now bolt in front and rear are different they do not use the same bolt holes and and every car has GM Dimples in them indicating where the new holes have to be drilled out and the rears have two that are hidden and you really have to look for them.... you need a flashlight and long drill bits for the one rear.... of course you have to install switches and enlarge the drivers side one and remove kick panel too for relay....... man here i go listing it all off... its in the right up I bet so i'll simmer down now...... Darren.. PS if you do remove everything re-grease it well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Is there a way to remove the roller guides? Arthur, assuming your windows are correctly positioned when you roll them up and down with the manual regulators, I strongly suggest that you DO NOT remove the guides or even loosen them. You don't have to do any of that to remove the manual regulators or install the power regulators. As Darren already mentioned, you'll want to apply a liberal coat of grease to the roller guide tracks and the main guide shaft, but that should be all you have to do unless something is bent or broken. It looks all but impossible to get the old regulators out and tne new ones in given the size and shape of the access holes in the doors, but it is possible. Note that you probablh cannot install the power regulators without changing the position of the actuator arm gradually as you insert it. That means, of course, that you will need to momentarily apply 12V power to the correct power lug (up or down) while grounding the frame of the regulator to move the arm a little bit at a time. The photo below shows that technique for bench testing the regulator, but it is also exactly what you'll need to do inside the car when you are installing the power regulators. There was some discussion on installing power windows late last year so you may want to review that thread: Power window thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 I am aware on how to remove them but the problem is that the roller guide(just the white circle) broke on power window regulator. I already removed the old crank regulators. So instead of drilling out the roller for new roller guides that you can buy online with a bolt. I was going to try to remove one from crank regulators. If it is possible. Example replacement ( linky ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 10, 2013 Share Posted March 10, 2013 Arthur, it seems entirely possibly to remove the white nylon roller from the staked stud by carefully removing enough of the staked end with a drill bit that is only slightly larger in diameter than the stud. The challenge is to secure the replacement wheel on the stud once it has been modified in that way. If replacing a worn/broken guide roller in that way was the only option available to me, I would carefully remove only enough of the staked end (as described above) and then using a small diameter bit of the proper size, I would drill and tap the exposed end of the stud to accept a 6-32 low profile, large head diameter screw. I don't know how much clearance you have at the back of the track for the screw head, but I would keep it to a minimum. You can control the screw head-to-roller clearance by the length of the screw as it bottoms out in the tapped hole. I seriously doubt that the roller exerts very much axial thrust on the staked end. I would be more concerned about drilling the screw hole too large and/or too deep into the stud, thereby weaking it and allowing it to bend or break off with repeated use. Not sure why you are resisting replacement with a threaded stud roller but you might experiment with this method first because you can always drill out the stud and use the threaded stud replacement. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 So the problem I am having now is i got the motor to move it up but having troubles bringing it down. To move up i put the positive on the horizontal pin and ground to clean bare metal. To reverse the process to make the motor go down (at the 12v) switched the positive to neg vice versa. Nothing. Then I tried moving the positive to the vertical pin in the motor both ways and nothing. Am I missing something or just not getting it to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 leave the ground in the position u had it and move the pos[12v] to the other terminal window will go down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 So I hear the motor "working" but regulator doesn't move. It will move up but not down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 The symptoms you describe are somewhat baffling to me. Assuming you are correctly switching the positive lead from vertical to horizontal connector lugs and leaving the negative ground on the frame as Bob advised, then the problem might be a faulty motor circuit, a stripped gear or an inadequate power source (assuming the arm is free to move either direction, of course). Either the motor is not actually reversing or, if it is reversing and turning, the gear box is not transmitting that motion to the arm. But, I don't see how the arm could raise without the gear box working correctly (i.e. neither the worm gear nor the rack gear teeth are stripped). The other possibility, when the window is being lowered you are actually winding that very stiff coil spring which helps raise the heavy window glass when it is installed in the car. While it is on the bench (i.e. not installed in the car), there is no weight of glass to help wind the spring and the motor has to do all the work. I don't know the type and strength of your power source but it may only be sufficient to raise the arm (with the help of the wound spring) but not able to lower the arm which is working against the spring. You can take the motor out of the frame to replace the old grease with new (see first photo below) and test the motor in both directions without the influence of the coil spring. BUT IF YOU DO, be sure to restrain the arm before unbolting the regulator motor/gearbox assembly from the frame! That spring is super strong and free-flying arm is extremely dangerous (ask me how I know - I was just lucky I didn't lose a finger or two)! It is easy to restrain the arm with a phillips screwdrive stuck in the frame (see second photo below). Good luck. Let us know what you found. Hope you don't have to replace a regulator motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 Well took the regulator out and test it and it worked Threw it back in the door and worked, I might be going crazy lol well one step closer to a Monte with power windows. Thanks for all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesTaylor Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Power windows are very easy to install if proper equipment is available for its fitting and with some kind of efforts. But it very important to maintain it regularly with proper care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Power windows are very easy to install if proper equipment is available for its fitting and with some kind of efforts. But it very important to maintain it regularly with proper care. !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Originally Posted By: JamesTaylor Power windows are very easy to install if proper equipment is available for its fitting and with some kind of efforts. But it very important to maintain it regularly with proper care. !! Lost in translation.. I read that and couldn't make "navia aut caput" out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 So with my under standing I will have to cut a hole to feed the wires through with the boot. How big should this hole be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 If you have no 12V power in your doors now, you will need to cut 4 holes - one in each door and one in each side of your cowl. There are several ways to cut the correct size of holes (they are probably not all the same size) but I've never heard of a way that didn't require first removing the doors. The size of holes to cut depends entirely on the end diameters of the rubber boots you have available to install. Usually the driver's side is a larger diameter than the passenger's side but you should measure each end of each boot with a caliper where the boot will seal against the door/cowl hole edge (just under the flange). I used Milwaukee hole saws of 2 3/8" diameter for the driver's side and 2" diameter for the passenger's side but your's could be different (even assuming you are using factory boots). Measure twice - cut once! There are already dimples in both your doors and your cowl to locate the center of the hole you will cut and the two screw holes that hold the flange in place. I suggest removing your doors, cutting all four holes then installing the power window relay (this can be done through the driver's cowl hole - you might also need to loosen the front edge of the kick panel but you shouldn't have to remove it). Install the boot on the door, install the wiring harness in the door and thread the loose end out the boot. Get someone to help you hang the door then thread the door wiring harness through the hole in the cowl and attach that end of the boot to the cowl. The rest of the wiring is done under the dash (lots of fun!). That's probably enough unsolicited advice for now - why spoil all your fun?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewTimer Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Okay guys, I have everything cut and plugged in, but the last wires I need help figuring out where to plug them in the fuse box are orange and pink. Two orange (one from front harness and other rear)wires plus one pink. I know that both orange&black go to ignition but does it go into ACC or Battery. I think they go into ACC. The pink wire I'm not exactly sure where it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 The orange and orange/black stripe wires go to battery (BAT lug) and the pink should go to ignition (IGN lug) because it triggers your factory PW relay (I assume you have installed it also). I wanted the ability to put my windows on a 30A circuit breaker so I ran a dedicated wire from the battery to 6-port, fused expansion box that I mounted on the bottom edge of the dash by the park brake release handle. You might be able to plug everything into your stock fuse pannel but I didn't go that route. You can by-pass or eliminate the relay if you wanted your windows to work all the time (not just when the ignition is on) but that's generally not recommended for security reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 See I have that same pink wire which don't have a home but my windows work only when the switch is on and in acc mode. My door locks work like they are suppose to. The original plug for the windows is a 3 into 1 connection as it went to a went to a 30 amp breaker on the firewall in the engine bay and got power off the horn relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.