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Power windows


NewTimer

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Well, Arthur, I may be wasting my time and yours but something just does not seem right in your photo and post. I know you are installing a system out of a '70 and mine was out of a '72 so there may be wiring harness differences.

 

The basic issue I ran into getting power to my Power Windows was the fact that my car was not built with any power options so the fuse panel was missing the main power lug and circuit breaker as you can see in the photo below (empty space on the upper left below the small silver can).

 

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Yes, components can be added to your stock fuse panel (if you can find them) but the larger problem is that your wiring harnes does not have a large power wire (capable of carrying 30A) to plug into the master power socket. I initially tried to run them off of the BAT lug and immediately blew the 20A fuse. Sure, you can put a 30A fuse in the BAT slot, but you'd better confirm you have the adequate wire size to supply it and I could not.

 

So what is one to do? Well, like both Robert and I ended up doing, you need to run a dedicated wire either direct from the battery (as I did) or from your horn relay (as Robert did), bring it through the firewall and into an expansion fuse panel. The pink wire will still go to the IGN lug on your stock fuse panel, but orange power wires will plug into the new fuse panel with either a 30A fuse or a 30A circuit breaker between it ant the battery. I simply picked up a small 6-lug, expansion fuse panel at Advance Auto, as well as a 3-lug side post battery tap, and 12' of AWG 10 braided automotive wire. If you go only to the horn relay (inside the upper left corner of your radiator support), you will only need about 6' of wire.

 

Here's the battery tap behind the positive battery cable connector with the new wire that runs across the car behind the top edge of the radiator support then back to the firewall passing between the driver's inner and outer fenders, though a hole and grommet in the firewall and to the new expansion panel.

 

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Here's the expansion fuse panel fastened to the lower edge of the dash with the new dedicated power wire attached to the supply lug and the power window orange wires (note both are in a single female connector, not separate like yours) are attached to the first of three fused lugs on the right. I attached my power door locks to the first lug on the left and fused both with 30A fuses.

 

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I may be entirely wrong, but I wonder if you either have a different wiring harness or you have not installed a power window relay? Take a look at the left side of the photo below. Unless the '70 harness is different, the rear harness plugs into the front harness at the connector shown in the upper left. Then the front harness takes the master power wires (orange/white and red/white), along with the pink wire, to the pigtail that plugs into the PW relay as shown in the lower left connector. Finally, the two orange power wires come out of the second pigtail (upper left) together in a single connector (I don't understand how/why you have separate connectors) along with the pink wire. The pink wire will go to your stock fuse panel at the IGN lug and the two orange wires (whether combined or separate) will go to your new fused expansion panel. BTW, the orange wire with the single connector seen in the upper right is not used by the power windows as it take power back to the power seat back release option.

 

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Please let me know if you did not get a PW relay with your system or have not installed it. I have several of photos showing where and how it is installed if you are interested. If you are not sure what the PW relay looks like, it is seen connected to the harness ready to be installed in the photo below.

 

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So I figured it out and the reason you may be confused. My harness came with the relay and was already connected prior to the post. The rear harness I received had an orange and black wire coming out of towards the rear not the front of the car. So maybe it is used to get power to the rear/trunk? Maybe a trunk popper? Also the front harness had the same black and orange wire which was used to run to the horn relay. With pink going to ignition.

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