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Rebuilding Front suspension


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Hey guys, well the dismantling process has begun as yesterday I put th Monte up on stands and started tearing her apart. With all the steering components, swaybar, shocks, etc removed, I'm ready to drop the control arms to get the springs out. This is a SBC350, and if I remember correctly from other posts, these springs are longer than the BBC springs. I was going to wrap a cable thru the springs and around the frame for safety but was wondering if I should mount a spring compressor on also or once I start lowering the control arm is there enough of a gap to allow the pressure off the springs?

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I've heard stories warning you about being careful when working with the front suspension springs. Relating to the possibility of death.. Cmon that's a bit far fetched and somewhat of an old wives' tale. I have always used a (decent) floor jack, under the lower control arm being careful, after I have loosen the press fit of both ball-joints from the spindle, (leaving castle nut loose on the upper) I start by working with the lower control arm releasing the compression/tension of the spring until all, usually most tension is released. Then I pull the spring away, there's some tension that remains when you lower it wide open (having the car nice and high on stands is important) but none that will kill you. Once you pull the spring it's wise to use a spring compressor for easier installation, not that you have to, but it's wiser to. Because I have managed to R&R a spring without ever touching a spring compressor. Now from experience I will be the first to tell you, you'd be foolish not to use one, cause in fact it makes the job much easier.

 

To me tying the spring is a step you could do, practicing safety I suppose. Though If you live on the edge as I do. lol I'll toss that step right out the disassembly sequence.

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Thanks Rod, I have the upper ball joints popped loose and the castle nuts to the end of the bolt, my floor jack is under the arm and ready to go. I do have an internal spring compressor which will be a must for installation, I'm sure. Just didn't know how long this spring would expand??

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Hey Murph, are you going the whole nine yards and changeing out the upper control arm bushings and lower control arm Pivot bushings ? Those upper ball joints can be drilled out but those lowers will and might need a ball joint press to get them out as you cant just tap them out with a hammer handle, and those control arm bushings are the same they will need pressing out to as well as the lower pivot bushings. you wont regret doing the whole lot of them as well as the swaybar bushings and link kits they all go hand in hand with a smooth ride besides doing the shocks too...I did the whole nine yards in the convertible as well but threw in powder coating the control arms too smile.

Darren.

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be safe!!!! rent a spring compressor!!!!

 

and!!!! if your dust shields are still on the spindles, be careful!!! the lower control arm will snag them!!!! after the lower ball joint is loose from the spindle, pull the spindle outward to clear the dust shield, or remove the dust shield first

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was wondering if I should mount a spring compressor on also or once I start lowering the control arm is there enough of a gap to allow the pressure off the springs?

 

Hey, Murray, from my experience, the answer is "No!" There is not enough travel in your lower control arm to allow an uncompressed front coil to be completely free of pressure (and that would be especially true if SBC springs are taller). In the photo below the lower control arm is at its lowest possible point and the spring (BBC) was still in there with enough force that I had to use a pry bar to unseat the bottom of the spring and allow it to come bounding out.

 

 

Step20.jpg

 

Fortunately I stayed clear of the spring as it went bouncing across the garage floor. As Rod said, it's not life threatening, but why take a chance of any kind of unnecessary injury or damage? Either tether it or use a spring compressor to arrest its expansion before you completely lower the control arm. That's what I did on the other side and the spring just fell harmlessly out.

 

Good luck with your project - you're going to like the difference in the way your Monte drives and rides!

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Well boys, we have success! At least on the drivers side, she's all apart. Yes Darren, I'm doing everything, I'm getting the entire front end rebuild kit from Performance Suspensions here in Phoenix, all the bushings & ball joints, 4 tierod ends with new sleeves, rotors, bearings & seals, caliper & pads, shocks, new plastic inner fenders and discovered I need a new center link as one end is bad.

 

Anyway, took my new internal spring compressor (Eastwood special) and was trying to figure out the best way to install it. Especially after seeing Dennis' photos and how far that spring may bow before coming loose. After installing it and uninstalling it and starring at it for a while......I decided to run the bolt down from the top thru the shock opening (I had to reem this hole just a hair) then I set one of the compressor arm assemblies about half way up into the spring. Screwed the big bolt into it and pulled the spring up just a bit. Dropped the lower control arm without a hitch. Loosened the compressor bolt and pulled it out (had to hold up the spring now) CAKE! Here's a few pics.............

DSCF1633_zps2bfdbb5e.jpgDSCF1634_zpscd492b92.jpg

And the bone pile.........DSCF1631_zps7c812f7a.jpg

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Congratulations, Murray!! That's looking good!

 

It may seem like overkill, but having a set of external spring compressors (in addition to the internal set, not in place of) can also be very helpful. For example, to remove the spring, I found it much easier to clamp a couple of external compressors on the spring to restrain its expansion while dropping the control arm.

 

However, when you install the spring, it is nearly imposssible with the external compressors in place. Instead, use the external spring compressors to compress the spring (while still out of the car) and then insert the internal spring compressor to hold it compressed and remove the external set before you install the spring.

 

Remember the curved shape of the spring during removal? Well, it installs much easier if the spring is curved like that also. You can easily achieve that curve by using a pair of external spring compressors and tightening one side several turns more than the other. You can also hold that curve by installing your internal compressor about one coil shorter than even on one side.

 

As soon as you raise the lower control arm high enough to connect the ball joints, the spring will be straight and the compressor will be completely loose, ready for removal.

 

If you compress the spring as a straight stacked coil, you will almost certainly have to kick the bottom end of the spring over into the control arm's spring seat so compressing the spring in a curved shape before installation will really help.

 

Also, when you install the compressed spring (curved or not) BE SURE that the top of the coil is held firmly up against the positioning tab that sticks down from the frame. It is easy to let the top slip to the side of the positioning tab (especially if you are trying to force a curved starting shape) but if it does, you will get to do it all over again (ask me how I know). frown

 

With all the painting and bushing replacement you will be doing, it may be awhile before you are installing those springs anyway but I thought I would mention it while I thought of it.

 

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

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Just a quick update, got the passenger side equipment removed and now I'm cleaning parts............DSCF1636_zps68a56356.jpgDSCF1635_zps1aca1927.jpgThen painting everything under the fender/firewall, etc..........

 

Quick question, has anyone cut their coil springs? Thinking for cutting 1/2 a ring off as I'm looking to drop her about an inch or so. By cutting half a ring, I'll reduce the overall length by about 3/4"....

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys, I'm back on this project, been out of town for 2 weeks for work..........My question is, I have new tie rod adjusting sleeves w/jam nuts but it seems that I can't get the tie rods spun in quite far enough for the over all length needed when the assembly is all together. (outer rod + adjuster + inner rod) Looks as tho the tie rods are a bit longer than the originals????? Thinking of cutting about 3/4" off one tie rod (outer) I will still have 1 & half inches threaded into the adjuster on each side when complete. Is that enough of the tie rod inside the adjuster? Is there some minimum rule of thumb for safty reasons??

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Here's what I've determined........the tie rod adjusters are about a inch longer than the stock/clamp style. The tie rods when installed are right at bottoming out in the adjuster to get the desired overall length. This leaves barely a turn or 2 for any adjustment. I decided to cut 1/2" off the outer tie rods only. Now I easily have the desired overall tie rod length (18.25" as per the old stock units) and I still have a fair amount of adjustment if needed. Now I'm only eyeballing the straightness of the rotors but it looks really close......

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I have a new question, replacing the calipers/pads and flex brake line. Any suggestions on procedure here?? Looks like its going to get messy when I remove the existing flexable brake line.........

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I just did this on my truck last week.

 

I removed the caliper bolts and used vice grips to clamp the old rubber hose shut.

 

Cut the hose below the vice grips and remove the caliper, pads, and lower part of the old hose to get them completely out of the way. Keep the hose end up high.

 

Bolt the new caliper, pads, and hose in place and then remove the upper half of the old hose.

 

Connect the new hose to the steel line.

 

Not too messy this way.

 

Dan

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Be carefull the end of the fitting may be froze to the steel line after it breaks loose rock it back and forth to make sure its loose from the steel line if not some PB blaster may be in order. If it still dont break loose some heat may be in order BE CAREFULL HEATING THE FITTING the end of the rubber brake line will blow off with a loud pop and the brake fluid will flare up after you get the fitting and line good and hot cool it instantly with a garden hose or water fire extinguisher then rock it back and forth again. We used this trick in the brake shop with much success. Safety shield and gloves are a must for this prosidure safety first. Goodluck

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Well, the Monte's back on the road. I will get some decent pictures this weekend but dare I say she handles almost like a 'modern' car??? A vast difference from she was. The flex brake line actually popped loose from the steel line fairly easily with some back & forth motions. Here are some pics........DSCF1659_zps7e605138.jpg

DSCF1660_zpsc01ba2cd.jpg

Everythings been POR15'd or painted, I cut about 3/4 of a coil off the springs which lowered the car 1/2". Looks great. The car is down getting an aliagnment & rebleed the brakes currently.

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Also, when you install the compressed spring (curved or not) BE SURE that the top of the coil is held firmly up against the positioning tab that sticks down from the frame. It is easy to let the top slip to the side of the positioning tab (especially if you are trying to force a curved starting shape) but if it does, you will get to do it all over again (ask me how I know). frown

.

 

I'm going to derail for a second. What are the effects of not aligning the spring top properly? I've been having a popping sound in my suspension under hard breaking for a while that I believe stated after taking the front suspension apart years ago.

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As I recall, the top of the springs wasn't the issue, just having the bottom properly set for the drain holes in the lower control arm is key. Now I have heard of your problem but that occurred when aftermarket springs were used (not necessarily on a Monte)and they were slightly wider in diameter??????

I just reread the post, mainly Dennis' dialog, I would think that you could see if the spring was not properly installed on the top or possibly feel it if the shock was removed.

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