MCfan Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Originally Posted By: MCfan Also, when you install the compressed spring (curved or not) BE SURE that the top of the coil is held firmly up against the positioning tab that sticks down from the frame. It is easy to let the top slip to the side of the positioning tab (especially if you are trying to force a curved starting shape) but if it does, you will get to do it all over again (ask me how I know). . I'm going to derail for a second. What are the effects of not aligning the spring top properly? I've been having a popping sound in my suspension under hard breaking for a while that I believe stated after taking the front suspension apart years ago. I doubt that is the cause of your popping sound during hard braking but it wouldn't hurt to check. It will bolt up and even look fairly normal, but since the top of the spring is not centered on the positioning tab, the side of the coil presses against the clearance hole in the upper control arm (assuming you have stock upper control arms, of course). I caught my mistake before I re-installed the shock or drove the car so I can't say this for certain but I'll bet you would get a loud, strange noise when the front end travels up or down with the spring pressed against the control arm opening (as any coil bumps across the point of contact). If the noise is only coming from one side, I would carefully inspect and compare how each coil spring is aligned in the clearance hole in its upper control arm. It should have clearance all around. If it is pressed against one side or the other, the top of that coil is probably not positioned correctly on the alignment tab. The only way I know to solve the problem is to disassemble that side, remove the spring, re-clamp it internally and install it correctly. That would entail at least removing the shock, unbolting the lower ball joint from the spindle, putting a pair of external clamps on the coil, dropping the lower control arm all the way down and getting the spring out. Putting a curve in the spring (with an internal compressor) as you compress it to re-install it should help to establish and maintain the proper alignment at the top as the lower control arm is jacked up into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Well, the Monte's back on the road. I will get some decent pictures this weekend but dare I say she handles almost like a 'modern' car??? A vast difference from she was. Looks great, Murray!! It's a good feeling to have that rebuild done and even better when you've improved its looks and protected your investment. Enjoy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Just thought I'd show some more work as I'm finally back home after a long business trip I've had some welding repairs done, the section between the holes of the fender lip has been partially replaced, we then added some additional structure to make the entire bottom section stiffer, of course, I then drilled a drain hole. Priming and painting now so I can get the inner fenders back in then I can do it all over again on the other side. I also had a realaignment done and the brake fluid replaced as it looked like coffee. She really handles & stops nice with all these new parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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