Mike

I just watched the video on this tool. I never knew that was adjustable. WOW. Thanks for the tip Scott.

Thats a great idea. Im putting in a 4L80 next week. Gonna do that!

Good Score! That one celebrity painter...kbmer... if i had to drive a car painted by him I would sell it and buy a rusty Yugo. UGH. Some weird hybrid pokemon crap, i didn't get it at all.

If you are not leaking i guess i wouldnt worry about it. My stainless tranny lines were new from InLine tube and they said they had the factory fittings. Really not sure if they did, i just assumed so. All i know is the male and female were off by two threads, hence the adaptor.

I havent thought about the tranny temps. I changed the filter and fluid a few years ago and it was great, no burn. But i also have one of those Derale pans with the tubes in it. Swapping to the 4L80e shortly!

Turkey Run was a blast other than Friday night, total rain out. Saw 6 other first gen montes there, only one had a big block and it was an incredible blue 71 SS. Gent from Gainesville owned it, there with his lovely wifey, daughter, and four frenchie bulldogs LOL. I have met them there before. Good folks. Parked right next to them near the sausage vendor at Turn 4. Oddly enough, only saw one other second gen monte and nothing else. Saw two brand new 1970 rear bumpers in the swap meet for $100 each! Total steal. I dont really need one so I passed. But both sold. Picked up some new Motion valve covers for my big block. A buddy i was with bought a 68 Impala Custom with numbers matching 396, 58k miles, $20,000. No rust, couple odd little dents in the hood and some paint scuffs, but overall a super solid car. Drove it 5 hours home, flawlessly. Seemed like a good deal, and there were quite a few good deals. If i had another garage space.... Been prepping the wife about a new garage... She aint with the program...LOL

Definitely doing the harnesses and dash/gauges at the same time. I just started two threads because the harnesses seem to be fairly cut and dried, but lots of variations on what people do with gauges. ANd yes I would def call AAW. Thank you Willie.

Hi folks, I have owned my 1970 with a BBC 402 (425hp) for about 12 years now. Originally came with a 3 row and ran about 220 on a hot florida day. Stainless flex fan with no clutch and a 180 stat. When that started leaking I upgraded to a 4 row. Temperature dropped to 200, so a 20 degree drop. I eventually dropped in a 454 with 555hp and temp went up to 205 maybe, not much of a change. Then a year went by and i stabbed in an aluminum radiator from Auto City (bought at the turkey run from their booth) and temp went to 180! Much better. I think if i stuck in a lower stat it might go down a bit since it sits on that 180 regardless of weather. The only caveat is I would not buy the radiator from Auto City again. The guy told me he used the GM factory tooling/molds to build the radiators and it was an exact fit...well that was bullshyte. The physical size was perfect, went right in. Both necks were spot on. But when i connected the tranny lines they both leaked. I backed them out thinking i just did a rookie mistake, threads looked ok, ran them back in...still leaked. Then I went back to basics and got my thread gauge out. The male fitting was not the same as the female in the radiator. If i recall right, one was 16 tpi and one was 18tpi....barely off! So i called the guy and he said "Yeah, didnt you buy the adaptor?" I was peeved. If he had told me the threads were different I would have certainly bought the dang adaptor. Especially since I had already cut my lower radiator hose already and when i put the adaptors on it pushed the lines back, hitting the hose. ARGHHHHHH. Fortunately, i chased the female threads with a tap and they were salvageable. No leaks for the past few years. So I defintely recommend the aluminum radiator. BUT, i would buy it from NPD and not Auto City. They have great glass, but obviously NOT the original GM molds. My buddy has a 1970 Chevelle with 12:1 compression, a radical 107LSA cam and bored 454 (468CI). He also had the identical results as me, runs at 180F on the hottest florida day. But he got his from NPD and the threads were the same as his tranny lines. Be cool amigos!

Hi again folks, this is my summer 2025 project (along with wiring harnesses in the whole car). I am torn, i was going to just rebuild the gauge cluster I have but a lot of you are talking about the Dakota Digital product. I go to lots of car shows, 90% of the time when I see some aftermarket dash, I am thankful i dont have a crowbar handy. I generally hate em. BUT, i have seen a few in some TriFives and camaros that are not too hard on my eyes. The main thing I am after is brightness. I figured all new factory gauges with LEDs would suffice. Who has done that in their Monte and been happy? And its a 1970, so it has to be green. I saw two pics in the forum and both were white lettering on the Dakotas. I assume they have a green? Final thing i read here was about accuracy, the dakota product is more accurate. In what respect? I wired an aftermarket tach and drove it, my dash tach was spot on the rpm. ANd the speedo is fine too versus the android app double check. Both of those will get replaced anyways since they are 55 years old but they seem to be fine in terms of accuracy. The temp, fuel, and amp gauges are so small, i never paid attention to them much anyways other than the fuel one. The only other gauge i have is oil pressure, which is underdash. What is your experience with original versus Dakota?

So, this summer my 1970 will be in the garage for some work. It will be hot as Mars here in Florida and i am looking forward to using my new mini split AC unit in there! I have read TONS of threads on here so first off...THANK YOU to all those who contributed. I learned a lot already. Seems like a lot of you like the AAW harness/kit which i hadnt even considered until reading here on FGMCC. I was piecing individual harnesses out of Ausleys, npd, etc... but the AAW kit looks like what i want to do. Question, does it allow for all options? I have power windows, does it have that/those harnesses? I would also like to add the under hood and courtesy lights under the dash. Car is originally a BBC with A/C, does the harness accommodate that? I see some, like on Ausleys, where it might be different if it was a small block. And where y'all getting your LEDs from? I replaced a bunch back about 10 years ago, cant recall where i got them from. Those all need to go too. Will also be replacing the instrument panel but that will be a separate post as I know its a lot to cover. Thank you for your help!

I havent had any issues with them other than i am waiting on a shifter and console. I have had good luck with Konicks and NPD. I will take a look at the others. Thank you again Joe. I have a dash project planned for next summer so that will be a bunch o parts. Whats the best place for all that stuff? Going with all new gauges, harness, etc..

I did notice two little...tits or something on one of the long sides, nothing on the other. Mighta broke off. I did a perimeter of super glue, and it kinda fit good without it. If it doesnt hold...its OPGI time for the $73 replacement. Thanks again Joe

AHHHHH, hmmm. I was able to get the board to kinda snap in, but the fitment is not firm enough. I'm sure it will rattle off. But what you put me onto is that harness ends in that black plug, and that plugs into the back of the bakelite that is part of the switch assembly. I thought the bakelight was part of the harness. THAT i can work with. Might just super glue it back together. When i wiggled it out the bakelite came away from the outer switches, probably loose for a while since my windows were sporadic at times. Thank you Joe.

So i went a little further down the rabbit hole LOL. Having a hard time understanding the assembly. Tell me if i am wrong, but it looks to me like the bakelite board that holds the contacts and harness will nest into the rocker switch assembly. But i dont see anything that would keep it in there. So this clip in the attached picture must be doing that. I have the chassis service manual but could find nothing on this. It looks like i should push the harness thru the door hole, assemble the switch with this clip, and then press the whole assembly back into the door ring that i backed with that plate. It doesnt seem all that substantial. So i am wondering if a part is missing? I did find a round hard piece of plastic in the bottom of the door but that turned out to be where the window settles at the bottom of the door. Nothing else in there. I thought i paid close attention to taking it apart, but since it was already wonky I might not know an important step here. Does anyone have a diagram or procedure for installing this switch into the panel? Thank you.

So I pulled the door panel off to see what the issue was. Looks like the panel board that the door material is mounted to was just old and coming apart. The cover material was in great shape so I didnt want to remove it all. I found some .025" thick aluminum (in the junk pile I never throw anything away) and cut a new backer plate for the switch. She sits in there solid as a rock. I would have used a different metal if i had any around. The aluminum is soft but in that thickness it works well and it works well. And its easy to cut with a sabre saw. Also, had to drill some holes and screw the plate down between two pieces of wood so I could get the saw around. I used the "sleeve" that the switch pushes into (last pic) as a template and just traced around it. Then drew the same shape again inside so i could get the tightest fit possible in the old panel.

I have 41.5" across the front so...maybe its those mounts

So the car tracks well, doesnt pull any one way or the other. There are a couple shims on the front of the passenger A arm, and a couple on the rear of the drivers A arm. I have new springs and A Arms not too long ago. The guy was old skool and said something about not putting it exactly where he wants, but he was anticipating my springs "settling in" eventually and he was aiming to have them be correct then. Not sure how long that will take, but she tracks fine really. Thank you Scott.

I will check that out. YOu dont have any air cleaner issues hitting the hood? I didnt think I had any room left. Although i am going to a cowl hood soon. Thanks James.

hmmm, might need to check that out. I did have to re-align the exhaust pipe up to the collector. The collectors were a bit higher, so i got a little more ground clearance. I didnt scrape anymore. Thanks Mark.

Im going to check my buddys Monte and see what mounts he has, he had plenty of space. Thanks Doug

Dude you are in Lauderdale! Bring up some Detroit steel! ITs a great show and monster swap meet. For all the knuckleheads that buy at Mecum...thats just flat stupid. There are a thousand cars here for sale and you can drive them. I had three buddies buy at Mecum, all got screwed with purposely hidden problems. ONe guy had to put a full frame under his 71 Monte, it would track down the road funny. But you cant tell that when its up on the auction block. When i bought mine we roared it around the airport. I was sold instantly. I even snuck it up on the turn on the far west side one year. We all know its steep, but man i had to stay in the throttle. It was a bit unnerving. Before they could get me i zoomed out the back gate LOL.

I stabbed the new BBC in there a few years ago. I put the headers on and I could not get the steering shaft back in. So we dented the headers (beer involved, looks like [censored]t) and i had a machine shop turn the collapsible shaft down in two spots as well. But the chinese made hooker headers look like hell from day one and it got me to thinking about fitment and replacing them maybe with stainless (house is paid off now, why not, kids are getting plenty). So i measured my buddy's 1971, from front frame rail to rail across the engine bay by the steering box. His is a half inch wider, as far as i can tell. Its a bit hard to measure straight down there. To your knowledge, I would think the frames are the same on all of the 70-72, no? He runs a BBC with hookers like me and has no issues with clearance. He actually has a fat quarter inch plus of space at least between the shaft and header. I also noticed that the drivers fender may not be original as its the only panel on the whole car that has tiny bubbles all over under the paint, like bad primer or something (Looks like fizz from a 7up). And the hood has a hole under the spear, so maybe it was a 71 hood? All that leads me to believe it was hit in the drivers front some time in the past. ANyways, is anyone running a BBC with hookers, and do you have clearance issues there? Any recommendations on how to measure? I dont mind taking it to a frame shop but I dont know any around me and I kinda would like to know before I go. Picture of shame attached. Side note, i did clear coat that shaft with hi temp clear but it looks like hell too. SO if anyone has a better suggestion i am all ears. Oh, i flipped the collapsible shaft to help the clearance. The female end of it used to be at the bottom by the rag joint. Thanks much.

Whos going!?!? Always a good show. I bought my Monte there...in 2009. Best buy of the recession at twelve grand, big block, AC, buckets, power windows, tilt, Flowmaster exhaust kit, dumps, 12 bolt, 373 gears, great shape. Stole it. Since then I retired the 402 in the first pic and put in a 454 that i bought there from Gordons when he used to come with the trailer full. 555hp, runs awesome, flies like the wind. I couldnt believe the torque difference between the two BBCs. I usually park out by Turn 4 near the tunnel, or just south of those hit and miss engine guys.

Hmm, I did contact Willie about the hinges earlier, thank you. Not good news about shipping damage. I guess I need to see whats covered. If its dented, its going back. I never had a cowl hood car. Did you put a spacer under the carb?

Hi Folks, i searched for cowl hoods on this website but only found custom made ones (WHICH LOOK GREAT). Wish i had that talent. Has anyone tried the Gold Star hoods from Jegs? I bought some Taiwan built metal inner fenders a few years ago from Leo Konik to replace the old plastic ones and they fit perfect, so I am hoping the hood fits. They have 6 different hoods on there, seemingly all the same other than functional or non functional. One is offered from Restoparts, but it could also be a Gold Star. Also, anyone know the weight of the old hoods? The cowl hood has some extra metal and is likely a bit heaver, concerned about the springs. Also Also, does anyone have instructions on how to line up a hood? I failed miserably after pulling it off with an engine swap. Then i went to two body shops and they both screwed it worse. Now its got a dimple and a wave, hence my interest in changing. I plan on getting new hinges or having mine rebuilt as well. Im thinking they are original to my 1970. Thanks all. Mike