

GideonBowles
(Non-dues paying)-
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11 GoodAbout GideonBowles
- Birthday 01/29/2004
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Downs, Kansas
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Legal Name
Gideon Bowles
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Occupation
Mechanic
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My Monte ('s)
Clone/Tribute (ex. SS454
Custom
from base model)
Recent Profile Visitors
940 profile views
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I have a 462 that I just had built, originally a gen IV 454. So in other words, it is brand new. when cold my startup oil pressure usually is about 40 to 50, once or twice my gauge has read all the way up at 80, but it is pretty consistent at 40. As soon as I get to about 140 degrees water temperature, the oil pressure drops and flickers at what my best guess is 5psi. When driving it sticks about 25, but as soon as I let off the gas, it tanks all the way to zero and then slowly goes back up to about five. I am running 10W-30, with high zinc additive, which I’m going to try moving up to either 15-40 or 20-50 I am going to change gauges and see if my gauge is incorrect, as well as replacing my sending unit. What worries me is I thought it was a gauge issue, drove it back to town and started hearing some pretty loud valve clicking which I’ve been needing readjust my valves already anyway but I’m worried that I may have [censored] my engine. Based on my symptoms, are there any other things anyone would suggest? Thank you!
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You wouldn’t happen to know or have any advice on tutorials or information on how to do that Myself would ya?
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So far I have been looking at 3.55s if I do. Would you say a man could install said dif by himself? Most of my people told me to pay to have it done.
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Skip the headers! The intake is stock but my carb is a 750 cfm holly.
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Thanks! I have been looking at 355s, would you advise buying the parts and installing myself? Or paying a shop to do it? I’m a mechanic which some old blood here that can help but a lot of people told me not to try and add a posi myself and to pay for it.
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2.5 ish year after I first bought my 71 Monte Carlo. I have done a plethora of things, rebuilding the engine, sanding, and priming the car, replacing body panel panels, and I finally got my glass back in it so I can drive. What next? Well I’m doing body work the next 4-5 months, will be painting it after that. But for the drive? I had my 454 rebuilt, to a 462, 781 heads, big cam, but still am running a stock intake manifold and exhaust manifolds. The car runs great. The only issues I’m having is one - the engine, not being as powerful as it could be, but that’s more of a personal thing, and two - having absolutely zero grip because I still have the stock differential, only one wheel grips and they’re very low gears. What should my next big purchase be? again, the car runs great. I just want to access the full potential. Get a new differential so I can apply my current power better? Or get a new intake and headers to have more power….. which can’t be applied fully yet. Any advice? I am aware that it comes down to what I want and what I think would be best, but that’s the issue. I don’t have enough experience to identify which would be better. Thank you!
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So I have my car almost finished engine and ready to drive but I do not have a fan shroud, I had a really crappy one I made myself, but that’s not gonna work and I do not have the money to buy a stock one. Does anybody have any suggestions? I’m considering buying a All-Star fan shroud and then buying myself a 16 inch fan that will fit in it, but I’m open to using a different car as long as it’s not expensive or anything. Thank you very much.
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I was having an old timer of mine, help me put my engine together and in doing so we may have forgotten to put the oil pump shaft in. Initially tried to drop the shaft from the top, but it has a pined sleeve over it. now the old timer says you don’t need the sleeve, he said, I should just take the sleeve and pin out and drop it in, but I’ve been able to find very little information on this topic. The engine is a 1974 gen IV 454, but I had it rebuilt at an engine shop, so now it’s an entirely different engine. Thank you for any input.
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Alrighty, thanks for the quick reply and info!
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MiG, with shielding gas!
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So is that just do short welds and tacking or is that short welds and tacking over the whole thing at different periods to make make sure it doesn’t warp. After my original quarter panel, it had in total five different sections welded onto it and all of them were braised on. And the only experience I have with that holy smokes, I ruined a good dozen blades trying to cut through it.
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So is that just do short welds and tacking or is that short welds and tacking over the whole thing at different periods to make make sure it doesn’t warp. After my original quarter panel, it had in total five different sections welded onto it and all of them were braised on. And the only experience I have with that holy smokes, I ruined a good dozen blades trying to cut through it.
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GideonBowles started following Quarter panel welds.
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Greetings and a good day to who read. I finally made it and put my quarter panel on my car. I have it tacked in place but I am unsure of the next steps. I’ve been told recently recently you should always do a full weld, which includes tacking it in small sections very quickly over and over again until full weld is completed. That is correct. I would love for someone to let me know because I have found very many differing answers. I will also try to upload some pictures! https://imgur.com/a/GisRbfB Thank you very much!
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Hello one and all, I recently pulled my windshield out of my 71 Monte after having had a leak for a really long time. After doing so I discovered that the top portion of windshield support. Outside where the roof seams to another piece of metal, is basically completely rusted out and destroyed. Does anybody know what the best way to go about fixing this is? And does anybody know if they sell strips that can go there?
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I have a burnt orange hood, I don’t really know if it’s a 71-72 or 70, as I don’t know how to tell the difference. It has minor pitting scratches, paint chips, hail damage, surface rust on the underside but no structural damage or deep rust. Sits flush on my car so I don’t think it’s bent or torqued at all. It does not come with the hood hinges that are shown in the pictures. It recently had been buffed and polished smooth paint, if you like the look of patina. No rust bubbles on the top side or edges as well. here are some photos of it, I didn’t have the man power to move the hood to see the leading edge by the windshield but I have removed the trim and it’s tip top shape, if you want to see that I can have someone help me, just message me. https://imgur.com/a/Vq3CUJl Looking for 500, to 600$, if you need it shipped far and if shipping is more, we can discuss lowering the price a bit. And if you are 3-4 hours away from Cawker kansas I am willing to drive it to you.