Stuckin70s

No, but If I had deep pockets, a duramax twin turbo diesel will do 8s and super fuel economy. Chevelle Drag race diesel

My brother has double fare the stainless many times. He said it is harder to work with and harder to get a seal. Expect to put more torque on it for the seal. He has talked me out of the SS and going back to steel lines. Especially since it will not be on salt covered roads any longer. Good Luck!

Wow, I thought the "convertable" mount was discontinued after the strike and GM deleted the option even though it was in the assembly manual. Good to know. So the single mounts must be for the Chevelle non-convertibles?

Those blue 55 plastic barrels filled with water do a good job holding the front end down. I was rebuilding an engine on the street years ago. I kept the barrel under the hood while the engine was out... Kept the neighbors from calling in derelict automobile to police.

Interesting... Other than local shows and occasional road trips I am not picky this is not show piece. I do agree the flat is a better way to go. For now, I am still scraping ziebart so I can get it to the blaster. Thank you. Brad

The frame looks fantastic! I see you have the same convertible floor pan body mounts which have been backordered since January. I hope yours are sound. After watching project farm on youtube evaluate rust paint. I am currently planning on rust oleum brush-on when I get it back from the sand blaster. Thoughts?

Yes, I was asking. I added a different Edelbrock cam, carb, intake. Went from 9 to 13 mpg. I am currently frame off deciding if I want to change transmissions for overdrive but would have to change the moon gear in the rear in as well. Thank you.

Are you running the stock rear-end gears?

Do not go by the sticker. Normally this is the last time the battery is charged. You can by a 2-year old NEW Battery with a sticker. Alway check along the case for a melted in date. Normally it is along the top edge. B25 (Feb 2025). Whenever purchase a new battery, the date code is a must. Unless they sell you a battery with the acid on the side like they used to do. But then again, we did not have people eating tide soap pods back then either!

Wow, Stunning!

Believe me I am not going under until I get another set of jack stands. In addition I have the engine hoist on the chains as a backup. Thank you.

I am watching Doug Harral's posts closely. Suspension has stirred my interest as it is frame time... Body is about 3' feet off the ground and I finally got the wheels and dollies on so that I may be able to roll the frame out and back when I can work on the frame. Needless to say all suspension, bushing are original. The rear is on the red jack stands and a 4x4 and it is solid! The front is sitting on cinder blocks. I need another set of the jacks as the blocks are not as secure and I have more undercar work to do. There is no brand name on the jacks. I did try some jacks I bought at Harbor Freight are way too tall at the lowest setting. Like she said... I just need 3 more inches. 😉 One interesting note: I haven't had a transmission in the wagon since the 70s!

Alternator: consider looking at the voltage regulator. The stock regulator was mechanical and the contacts can get dirty. I converted my to a solid state regulator.

I am just hearing audio on the flashers