TN454Monte

That was the one draw back to the Mountain Mods / Chevette radiator, it took up a lot of space, and the triple 88mm fans when pushed out to the max got a little noisey. Under normal conditions though I would set my radiator fans at just 1000 rpm or so and the only thing you'd really here was a slight woosh of the fluids circulating and very muted hum from the pump. At the height of my W/C days when I built that rig It was based mostly off of the Mountain Mods site, It had both the System CPU and ran twin SLI 512MB Nvida based Graphics cards water cooled. I remember just after completing the build, I fired everything up to install the OS, and I noticed a drip drip of coolant from the Lower GPU Block, this had happened before with the same block so.....frustrated, I shut down, jumped into my car, went to a hardware store got pipe sealant and adjustable metal hose clamps. The kit I bought had Nylon type clamps and I suspected they just weren't up to snuff for the pressures I was running from the pump. Got home drained the system, tore all the hoses out, coated the hose barbs on the blocks with the PVC sealant and put the hoses back on with the metal clamps, tightened them up refilled the system and VIOLA! no more leaky! One draw back...For days after; my room in my flat REEKED of Pipe sealant; my roommate swore I was in there 'huffing' ...but it worked. I never had another leak...and even that it was built back 5 years or so now that rig probably would STILL give some newer CPU set ups a run for their money, it was insane what it could pull on benchmarks when it was running all out. LOL Moral of the story...PC's are like cars...nothing ever succeeds like ...overkill!!

What Mo's70MCs said...and .... *dumb question alert!* What does this do to the rim position once it is mounted? Moves the rim inboard correct? All things being equal 2 inches per side mean that both rims would now be moved in towards the center by the same amount? Or do you need to offset that 2 inches somehow with a different rim? I guess that is a dumb question, so forgive me I don't know anything much about this sort of mod, just trying to figure out if it is something I want to look at down the road. Assuming no mods like a set of wheel tubs, Seems to me that since it would move the rim inboard, wouldn't things like clearance with the inner wheel well come into play? TIA

That's going to be a lot of fun...a 502...woot!

If you're serious about water cooling a PC, go to: www.mountainmods.com I've used them in the past, good to deal with and cater to the gamer / liquid cooling community. They have water blocks, water-pumps, radiators, tubing, reservoirs, almost anything your could need to run water cooling in a PC. One word of caution, get ready to spend money, it's not a cheap way to build a computer and unless you are into building them, not for the faint of heart. Water - Delicate electronic computer components...you get the idea. I was heavily into it for a few years and built several liquid cooled machines, there is a lot to consider when doing it, however pushing CPU and Graphics card overclock speeds that would melt an air cooled system never posed a problem. Their radiators believe it or not, used the heater cores out of a ....Chevette. I'm still using one of their older UFO cases, although I didn't water cool this set up, and although it's now almost a 5 year old build I still have people look at it and say..."Wow, that's a computer?!?"

I thought it was a mid 70's vintage vette too...

We're rooting for you and Red Davey!

Now THAT'S what I call a burn out!! Woohoo!

Nice work!

Do I need a lawyer....??

Ooops. Blame Winston...I quoted him! (How's those bus tires feel Wolfie Ka-Thump!)

80K Plus?! YIKES!

Quote: Still dwelling on shiny things after all these years. Shiny things are the bane of any gearheads existence.

Wow...sorry to hear all of that Ondy.

Sorry to hear hear about the problems Andy...but if anyone can fix it...you can. LOL.

Nice looking work Andy.

Engine looks and sounds great David!

Not sure this is going to help you any but, My Comments / Opinions Quote: Tells me he strongly suggest doing the forged pistons (extra 300.00) Agreed on this one, only because as I've learned Hyper / Cast pistons in a stroker motor have a bad rep of having skirt breakage issues. Going forged allows for additional upgrades in the future. i.e. power adders. Quote: 4 bolt main block (750.00 extra) Are you planning on power adders like N02? If not, a 2 bolt main correctly prepped is plenty strong enough to handle up to a 700 HP build. Quote: & forged crank (extra 700.00) for a bullet proof bottom end. IMHO that seems like a big jump in price between cast vs forged, but I could be wrong. Quote: Also suggest doin the fully CNC'd heads (650 extra). I don't want to comment on that, not with out some sort of dyno comparison between the Non CNC vs CNC he is trying to sell you, IOW are the CNC heads making that much extra power in his build to justify the price tag? Quote: I don't think I need to do all of that for a 80% cruising car/sprited driving & maybe a half a dozen times a year takin it to the local 1/4 mile & 1/8th There's part of the key to you're questions, add in what sort of power levels you are looking for, the possible use of power adders, how hard the engine is expected to rev, and you should be able to come up with a better idea of what your needs are. An oh, yes, You are having fun...you just don't know it yet.

Nice~!!

I understand Andreas, I'm just cracking wise, I should have used an Smilie I guess...like this

30,000,000,000.00 Thats Billion with a B ....in Taxper's funds to bail GM's mismanaged a-- Out of the wringer, and we're all supposed to worry about their licenesing BS? Oh the irony.....

Great video Dave.

Great idea for the videos guys..

All of my stuff came from Savitske Classics and Customs(SC&C) It's their Stage II kit. But yeah, there were some long phone calls when the choices were being made, can't say enough about SC&C'c owner he was a great help and took the time to talk directly with me about what I wanted from a package. Both Allan and I used Unisteer Inc for the R&P Kits, there were some small issues, with the shaft being too short, as it was for a Chevelle and having to order new ones to fit the longer Monte. I think Flaming River is carrying them now as well. I'm close to putting my back on the road, Allan is already driving his and gave it favorable reviews, but I don't want to put words into his mouth, he might chime in and give you a better idea of his opinion of the R&P upgrades.

Purty! Good luck with the dyno!

Nice set up!! One question, since you've gone this far have you considered a Rack and Pinion Setup? A couple of shots (several months ago) of mine going in...Poster "Allan" uses the same set up...